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Nymph Fishing Rods

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I'm in Dunsmuir this week, home of fly fishing legend Ted Fay and his partner Joe Kimsey. Fay didn't invent the technique or the bomber fly, but he popularized it probably in the 60's and 70's. Here's a brief discussion of the history, a good "how to" discussion of the technique and theory, and also an old video where Kimsey ties a bomber fly and shoots the sh** about the technique.

Hmmm. I wonder if that Bomber has any relation to the Bomber salmon fly dry.. Tied with deer hair and floats, I use them for smallies.

 

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Hmmm. I wonder if that Bomber has any relation to the Bomber salmon fly dry.. Tied with deer hair and floats, I use them for smallies.

 

 

030_135_sideRMB__77021.1449620927.400.30Salmon Bomber green

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I'm in Dunsmuir this week, home of fly fishing legend Ted Fay and his partner Joe Kimsey. Fay didn't invent the technique or the bomber fly, but he popularized it probably in the 60's and 70's. Here's a brief discussion of the history, a good "how to" discussion of the technique and theory, and also an old video where Kimsey ties a bomber fly and shoots the sh** about the technique.

http://www.kiene.com/forums/showthread.php?21649-quot-High-Stick-quot-nymphing-in-the-1960s-and-70s

http://www.fishingtips101.com/c_fly_fishing_for_trout/high_sticking_techniques.html

 

Thanks Chug, the Ted Fay / Ted Towendolly style is what I recall being called "high stick" , with very heavy flies being lobbed (not cast) just over the boulder into the fast lane and being lead through the pocket by the rod tip.

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My pleasure tjm

@DaveG, it looks like the same shape, but these are weighted and the bodies are wool yarn, the front and tail hackles are soft. These were supposedly invented in the '20s, but I don't know if they were always called bombers. They're ugly but they work.

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Getting back to the OP's original question, as a few (shockingly few) pointed out the high-sticking or more accurately 'tight lining' techniques favored by some (previous posts have cited the CA version developed by Ted Towendolly and re-invented by the competition-driven anglers across the pond) can be done quite well with a standard rod and a standard line -- that is WF, DT, or even a level line because as mentioned, there's really no casting involved. The Northern California version of this technique usually calls for adding a "sighter" of Amnesia to the leader so strikes are easier to detect, but that's all you need to add.

 

What folks who really get into this do prefer is longer rods, 9.5'-11.5' in length, with soft tips and faster middle and rear sections to help with the upstream lob rigs and land fish. Here's one article worth looking at https://www.tridentflyfishing.com/blog/2018-european-style-nymphing-fly-rod-shootout-fly-rod-review/ with regards to rods, and George Daniel's books is really the best source I know of that covers rigging/techniques. There are a host of rod makers out there catering to the euro-nymphing craze with the Sage EZN representing the higher end, and rod priced all the way down to bargain prices. For example, the Cabela's CZN rod is $200 and can be had for half that when on sale.

 

So if you are just looking for a good excuse to buy another rod, you can easily justify it in my mind, but you do not "need" another rod to play around with these techniques. YMMV.

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My pleasure tjm

@DaveG, it looks like the same shape, but these are weighted and the bodies are wool yarn, the front and tail hackles are soft. These were supposedly invented in the '20s, but I don't know if they were always called bombers. They're ugly but they work.

Yep chug, I see that. Both interesting flies at any rate.

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What folks who really get into this do prefer is longer rods, 9.5'-11.5' in length, with soft tips

That was my take away years ago, I did it with my all purpose 8'er but a longer stick would have made more comfortable wading, like hip deep rather than arm pit deep.

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Being the OP, I thought I would add something. I appreciate everyone's comments and advice. I recently purchased a 10 foot 3 weight Syndicate rod. This rod is pretty much a specialist and not really a utility player to borrow a baseball term. This rod will reach out and place the nymph in the fish zone quite easily and it doesn't wear me out like shorter heavier rods have. BTW, I do use a bobber or "strike indicator" if you prefer that term. It just makes things easier for me. I am not pushing anyone else to use my methods but they work for and I am happy with that.

Joe

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Joe, I too have been using a ten foot 3 wt. nymphing rod for over a decade and I would never go back to a shorter rod for that use. On many occasions while nymphing I have come across an olive hatch and that rod has no problem laying out a line and leader with an 18 or 20 olive dry. I can't say enough positive things about the benefit of a longer rod for nymphing.

I fish both with and without a floating indicator and use some type of inline sighter when fishing without.

The tip is soft enough to protect fine tippets and the lower rod has plenty of backbone to whip +20" browns.

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I built a 10ft 4 wt this spring on an IM6 graphite blank and it's done well on 17 inch rainbows and 2 lb smallies. I was midge and small Hornberg fishing with it early on this spring, then switched to Micky Finns. To my surprise though, it's done very well casting good sized Bomber salmon flies to smallies. I've been very pleased with this rod.

 

I wouldn't discount the 3 wt for some utility use till you try it. I have a little 7 ft 3wt that has handled about 17inch land locked salmon on dry flies and also a 3 lb large mouth on a small muddler and countless smaller trout of course. I've used it in boat and canoe pond fishing and small stream fishing as well. And done bigger river fishing too. A 10 ft 3 wt will be well versed beyond what this little rod should do. Give it a try in more situations that you might be thinking of, condemn it or confirm it for various uses after you really get a handle on it's uses..

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