Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted February 11, 2019 I like cheap so I guess I'll be looking for some rubber shelf liner. The 3/8 I.D. by 2" machine spacers I bought at Ace hardware for 4.50 each. My local Ace has a nice nut, bolt and doodad section. The machine spacers are nice and thick so their good for drilling and tapping and they fit a vise stem perfectly. Never seen machine spacers at a big box hardware store. The lamp spacer is attached to the lamp arm. It slides over a piece of round stock. I drilled a hole in the base and put the rod into the hole leaving it a little shallow. It was then plug welded from the bottom. The spacer for the vise I had to radius the inside lip a little, inserted and welded a 3/8's stub to the bottom of the spacer. Drilled a hole through the base, inserted the stub in the hole and plug welded it through the bottom. Plug welding gives a very clean look to the visible side of things. When you weld like I do you either have to hide the weld or grind the crap out of it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fshng2 0 Report post Posted February 11, 2019 PD $6.99 Harbor Freight. https://m.harborfreight.com/solid-nonslip-drawer-liner-65565.html No need to paint, enough material for top & bottom. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted February 11, 2019 $1 at dollar general Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdowney 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 The stuff from HF is a bit thicker than the shelf liner stuff. I bought several rolls for lining tool box drawers at work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 well why would that be a problem its only applied to the base of a pedestal to provide a non slip surface Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flicted 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 I will look for the machine spacers. If I get a Peak pedestal I may want to extend the shaft and the gizmo that peak sells runs about $20. If I could find a 2" spacer, I should be able to rig up an extender for next to nothing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 check out the mcmaster carr for spacers ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vise-Pedestal-Base-Adapter-DYI-Fly-Tying-Vise-3-8-Shaft-FV2172/253599281248?hash=item3b0bb1f060:g:ETEAAOSwjS9a6mtD:rk:19:pf:0 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdowney 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2019 well why would that be a problem its only applied to the base of a pedestal to provide a non slip surface Its not a problem. Observing that they are different products is all. The thicker stuff would be my choice for a heavy base as its less likely to be permanently squashed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted February 13, 2019 After much thinking I'm going black. The metal paint that dries with a little texture to hide the imperfections in the scrap steel plate I used. I think the HF rubber liner is the ticket. I think I'll put it under my portable tying desk as well. Flicted, Ace has the spacers up to 2 1/2". If your making an extension of the vise shaft I think the 2" would work fine with a set screw tapped in at the 3/4" mark from both ends. Then all you need is a 3/8's rod the length you want to add. Or you can just extend the base mount by putting a short 3/8's rod in the base mount and securing it with the base thumb screw. Then slide a spacer with a set or thumb screw over the rod and tighten It to the rod post. Then insert your vise stem into the top of the spacer and set with a thumb screw. Of course, if it's long enough, you can just replace your base mount with a 2 1/2" spacer. Whichever way, your coming in at around 6 bucks. That's a lot better then 20 to 30 dollars to buy the same thing from peak. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fishfrnzy2 0 Report post Posted February 13, 2019 Poopdeck, the base looks nice. Clever to add the light. I used something similar "fin ribbed corrugated rubber floor mat" on bottom of base glued rib side down with contact cement and trimmed with razor to size. Found it at Ace Hardware and they cut off about 3' off of a 3' wide roll. has good traction. Sorry, can't seem to post a website link???? For finishing the base, if you polish it pretty fine, Birchwood Casey Insta Blue gives a good finish. Takes about 4 coats to get a rich black/blue color. You HAVE to get the steel very clean and no fingerprints. Wipe with acetone, then alcohol to thoroughly degrease and remove any polishing compound. I have also used Caswell Plating black oxide( is little less shiny but I don't believe glare would be too much of an issue fwiw. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
utyer 0 Report post Posted February 15, 2019 Not really a tying tool, but it IS homemade. Someone posted a product a month or so ago, and being cheap, I decided to make my own. This is a combination tippet minder, and fly floatant carrier. It will hold up to 8 spools of tippet, and holds the floatant bottle upside down ready to go. Since I took these pictures, I have opened a window in the floatant holder to allow for squeezing out floatant when necessary. Since someone asked, here are few more pictures to show how I made this: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2019 Nice job utyer! Can you take the tipper of to show how it's all attached or at least explain how you did this. It's that a simple straw? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
utyer 0 Report post Posted February 16, 2019 The tippet holder is made from a braided length of paracord. The white piece in the center of the tippet spools is a pen barrel I cut off to fit. The paracord is pulled through a hole in the pill bottle cap, and then heated and pressed against a washer so it won't pull back through. The pill bottle bottom what drilled out to the size of my floatant bottle top. I then cut a window in the bottle side just a little smaller than the floatant bottle. That way I can press on the floatant bottle as necessary. The bottle can be unscrewed and not carried when you don't need floatant. My first version used a 3" eye bolt. That was attached through the bottle cap with two nuts. I didn't think that worked too well (nuts loosened up,) so I switched to the paracord. I will get some more detailed pictures soon, since I am making one for a friend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2019 Well it's not black. It's carbon mist. I ended up extending the lamp base so I would get more height to the lamp. Good bye second space robbing bulky lamp base and giant light, hello easily packable space saving 2 for 1 base and task lighting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fshng2 0 Report post Posted February 17, 2019 Not really a tying tool, but it IS homemade. Someone posted a product a month or so ago, and being cheap, I decided to make my own. This is a combination tippet minder, and fly floatant carrier. It will hold up to 8 spools of tippet, and holds the floatant bottle upside down ready to go. Since I took these pictures, I have opened a window in the floatant holder to allow for squeezing out floatant when necessary. Since someone asked, here are few more pictures to show how I made this: Nice work Utyer; very clever to add a window for squeezing out floatant. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
