Mark Knapp 0 Report post Posted September 21, 2019 Thanks guys, I'm excited to try them out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fshng2 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 Nice,,,I like the eyes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 i removed the plastic lattice covering the frame. those 2 azalea bushes look pathetic. they gotta go! a pile of deck boards and railings waiting to get hauled away by lunchtime it was stripped naked deck boards replaced should i sand or power wash the frame work below the deck boards? i'm gonna stain the frame wok a darker color or get creative covering the frame work. ideas?? the guys will be back monday to continue the deck rebuild with new steps and railings. then its on to the smaller deck at the back door back door Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 I've seen them power wash fencing, and it looks pretty good. But, I don't know if it will "even" out the differences between the weathered portions and the areas protected by the railings. Sanding will take longer, but might produce a better finish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peartree 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 Pressure wash before you do anything to it, but sanding won't do a lot for making the older framing match the decking. Let the new boards cure for about six weeks, then put a solid color stain over the entire thing would be your best bet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vicente 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 What peartree said the other thing I like to do when I build a deck is use a peal and stick flashing on top of the joists stup water doesn't soak into the top of the wood. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 What peartree said the other thing I like to do when I build a deck is use a peal and stick flashing on top of the joists stup water doesn't soak into the top of the wood. ??? i dont get that one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 Pressure wash before you do anything to it, but sanding won't do a lot for making the older framing match the decking. Let the new boards cure for about six weeks, then put a solid color stain over the entire thing would be your best bet. My idea of sanding was to make the frame one color or at least blend them. I'll power wash before sanding Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vicente 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 It's basically a tape with a tar sticky side you use it to seal around windows or places that need extra protection on a roof but it can also be use onto of deck joists to prevent dry rot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Knapp 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 Your place is going to be pretty spiffy when you get all done. My thought would be you could cover the beams with a 1/2 or 3/4 thick fascia board to hide the weathering, then bolt or screw the railings on through the new fascia board. I think that would be a lot easier and more effective than sanding. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 It's basically a tape with a tar sticky side you use it to seal around windows or places that need extra protection on a roof but it can also be use onto of deck joists to prevent dry rot. so it would go on the top of each joist BEFORE the deck boards go on? the existing joists looked damn good for being 12 years old Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 i'm thinking of hiding the weathering kinda like the following photo or with new lattice. the frame is already there. the posts and railings will be similar to below Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peartree 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 Your place is going to be pretty spiffy when you get all done. My thought would be you could cover the beams with a 1/2 or 3/4 thick fascia board to hide the weathering, then bolt or screw the railings on through the new fascia board. I think that would be a lot easier and more effective than sanding. Like Mark suggested, a lot of time we'll run another new board around the entire deck as a rim joist or fascia, then it will match the new decking without all the sanding, even sanded they won't suck up the stain at the same rate as the new wood, hence the difference in color. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 all of the frame work will be done in a darker stain than the rest of the deck i still have to pressure wash to get the green algae and dirt that has accumulted over the years the deck boards are still wet to the touch. how long for them to dry enough to stain. my contractor said around march next year Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 Wife watches a show called "Holmes on home". During the show, Mike Holmes does a bit on "when to apply stain to deck boards." It's a recurring bit, kind of like a commercial ... only reason I'm reminded of it now. He says to flip s few drops off your fingers onto the boards. If the water beads, do not apply stain. If the water absorbs into the wood, it's ready to accept stain. The sooner you can apply the stain, the better. You can sand off the weathered surfaced to get the "new wood" look, just before staining. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites