Bozeman Mike 0 Report post Posted December 12, 2018 Been following this forum for years but never took the time to contribute. However, a recent experience to share might be useful to a lot our saltwater tyers. Using barbless hooks for your flies in freshwater is a no-brainer. The barbless products on the market today are great and more hook models are showing up all the time. My favorite is now the Firehole Stick line from Firehole Outdoors in Bozeman, Montana. They've probably got the best barbless streamer hooks on the market in the models 718, 811 and 839. The wide gap design really improves hooking and hook retention. Recently, I took a 10-day trip to the Sarasota-Tampa region where I have my Caribbean 12 Angler kayak stashed with a relative. Since barbless (pinched down) hooks are recommended for trout and snook to protect their tender mouths, I decided to try out some saltwater patterns tied on 718s and 811s. The hooks are not designed specifically for saltwater application, but the black nickel coating held up well on the flies I used during the trip. Indeed, on trout and snook the hooks held well and were easy to remove. I don't think I missed any more fish than usual using barbless hooks. I didn’t wash any of the flies after use during the trip and after ten days, there was no sign of corrosion, even though several flies went to battle with big 5-7 pound Bluefish and their gnashing teeth. The only fly type that I found the hooks unsuitable for were bend backs and bottom bouncers. 811s broke most of the time when bending and on both models the black nickel coating fractured if the bend was successful.So if you want to try tying your saltwater patterns on barbless hooks, you might want to give the Firehole Stick 718s and 811s a try.This is my "Identity Complex Seatrout fly on a #1 Model 811 Firehole Stick--Go to fly for Speckled Seatrout on sinktip in deep potholes. Here's a passel of saltwater patterns all tied on Firehole Sticks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Philly 0 Report post Posted December 12, 2018 I've always crushed the barb on my salt water flies, lures and trolling lures. The only barbless hook I've used for salt water flies is the Partridge CS43 Ad Swier Pike hook which is designed to be fished in fresh and brackish waters. I've used fresh water hooks some of the time I've rinsed them but haven't noticed any rusting on the ones I didn't rinsed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tidewaterfly 0 Report post Posted December 13, 2018 I have a good number of hooks for my saltwater flies in my supplies, so no need for additional hooks at this time. Like Philly I mash barbs anyway, but not everyone does. IMO, folks should do what they feel is best for their fishing. I also use stainless, tinned and black nickel hooks for some saltwater flies, as I use the same flies for freshwater fishing. Again, mashing barbs has never been a problem on any of them. As far as rusting goes, I've taken apart enough old flies over the years that didn't appear to be rusting, but once the materials had been removed rust was evident. Some hooks will show rusting on the exposed metal, but it's usually what you can't see that causes problems. I have had a few flies that rusted so badly under the materials that the hook broke in my hands and the exposed parts of the hook still looked great. I haven't as yet tried any of the Firehole hooks, but most likely will at some point down the road. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tjm 0 Report post Posted December 13, 2018 Rust under the material is not uncommon in fresh water either. I've found it often enough when salvaging hooks, that I never put flies away the same day they are fished. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Capt Bob LeMay 0 Report post Posted December 13, 2018 Like most I make a point of flattening the barbs on any flies that I hand my anglers - no matter what species we're aiming at... I find the hook with the barb flattened simply hooks up better - and never seems to cost us any fish... All of that said, though, the real reason is pure self defense since I've been to the ER twice over the years for a hook removal (the biggest hook was the tail hook on a 'cuda tube - and it was a 7/0..). Like many I'm tying with a variety of hooks from stainless to black nickel - from Tiemco, Owner, Mustad, Eagle Claw - and others... I also re-cycle flies (sometimes simply because the hook has turned rusty.. With a new, sharp razor I carefully cut away all the materials, insert a new hook in the vise - then use whatever materials are still good while tossing and replacing what can't be saved and we're off to the races... Mostly the only time I'm in the hook replacement mode - it's because the fly was used, then carefully rinsed off in freshwater and allowed to dry... but - the fly sat for months before being needed again (this is particularly true of tarpon flies...). Any fly that I can re-cycle (and have it perform properly...) is a bonus for me when I'm booked solid and have a limited amount of time on the vice (after boat and gear maintenance, paper work and computer time for my small business - and not to mention almost four hours on the road each day towing my skiff...... to one ramp or other...). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites