Dusted off my fly rod

[Philly 0]

Clemens' two books were my bible when I started building rods. His store was up in Allentown, right off the NE extension of the PA turnpike. I got a chance to talk to him several times when I was picking up blanks and other rod building supplies. In fact, he was the one that suggested I use single foot spinning guides on my rods. I just dug out his "Custom Rod Thread Art" to look at and decide if I want to do some fancy rod wraps when I refurbish a couple of my fly rods over the winter. Fading eyesight and fat, arthritic fingers may prevent that, but we'll see.

[Bill_729 0]

Since I started this thread concerning my Diawa fiberglass fly rod, vintage ~1979, I thought I would ask a question concerning it here.

The "ferrule" is almost invisible--the top end of the 2-part rod just slides into the bottom end, which is just a little wider at the connection point, with a friction fit (there is no metal, just a tiny ring of cork on the male end (1/8" wide), and I don't know whether it even comes into play). I usually twist it on to get it aligned and "seat it" (although there is no real "stop"). It's frequently been tough to get apart, but today was the first day that I couldn't do it by myself. I needed another man (my wife wasn't capable) to hold and twist one end while I held and twisted the other, and fortunately it came loose without breaking it. I cleaned the male (upper) end with wd-40 after that, but I don't think it took care of the "problem". One obvious "solution" is to try not push the pieces together so tightly. Does anyone know how to really "fix" this problem? Having brought it up, I'm wondering whether I should "treat" the cork with something (although I don't really believe that's what is getting stuck, but I won't rule it out).

 

Thanks,

Bill_729

 

P.S. Since I started this thread, I appreciate my fiberglass rod more than I did and I'd hate to lose it!

P.S.S I caught 1 (very) small bass on my Black-nose Dace streamer.

[Steeldrifter 0]

If you can get a picture posted of the ferule that would be very helpful. Normally it's just a metal slip fit like you described but you said there's no metal and there's a cork collar from the sounds of it? pic would be best if you can snap one.

 

If you are having issues taking it apart then try some ferule wax. if you don't have that then candle wax will work or even "nose grease" (wipe the male ferule along side your nose, the oil from your skin will make it easier to take apart....old bamboo fly rodder trick).

 

When you are taking it apart try to pull straight and not twist it. Twisting a rod when taking apart is one of the leading cause of breakage so try to never twist it.

[tjm 0]

I think that's a butt over tip glass to glass "ferrule". (no ferrule actually, just a section cut out of the blank that reduced the diameter of the top enough that it fit inside the bottom- an economy move)

It needs wax for two reasons, first to keep from coming apart (or turning) when casting and second is to help it come apart when you want it to. I don't recall seeing a cork ring on any of them, although I have added a wrap just above the connection to keep it from going too deep- the ring may serve that purpose. The male had a small rubber plug in the end that helps keep it from collapsing under strain. The butt/female was wrapped on the rods I saw or used for the same reason-added strength, often a guide would be placed so that the guide wrapping also reinforced.

Fenwick pioneered glass to glass and patented the tip over butt version as Feralite; they recommended paraffin wax as the ferrule wax and I've always used paraffin for that reason, but many others have used beeswax be cause it is more sticky.

Fenwick also printed right on those rods to twist the ferrules together- I always done this with other glass to glass also. Metal Ferrules never twist.

 

First thing I'd do is get rubbing alcohol, paper towels and qtips and do a thorough cleaning on both parts, then rub wax on the male and rub it in/off with paper- repeat. The result I'm looking for is fully covered in wax with no gummy build up to collect dirt.

When taking it apart it may help to hold the rod behind your legs and grip both sections close to your legs then push your hands/wrists apart with your legs; this helps to keep the pull straight and also uses your strong leg muscles. Two people or hooking the rod to a tree or other actions of similar nature often break the rod.

It's important that the ferrule be fully engaged, so don't half insert it in an attempt to make it easy to take apart; by the same token don't force it together more than necessary.

[Bill_729 0]

Thank you for the tips! It never occurred to me that twisting the fiberglass could break it, but it makes sense. I will clean and wax. I was browsing through a book at Half-Priced Books today and saw the "grease of your nose" tip mentioned there. I'm going to try the rubbing alcohol, Q-Tip, and paraffin approach! I will let you know whether I notice a dramatic increase in "performance".

 

Thanks!

Bill_729

 

 

Update: Following your directions, getting the paraffin onto both parts of the joint seems to have greatly improved the situation. The paraffin is now a working part of the connection. It's works nicer now than when it was new! Now, I can get it on and off with very little twisting!

[Flicted 0]

Always used the "nose grease" trick but make sure the ferrules are clean before you rub them on your face. Been there, done that, endured the ridicule.