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chugbug27

Why not thinned shoe goo?

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On 5/31/2020 at 10:34 AM, Mark Knapp said:

Of course many of us use Sally Hanson and she's very good for heads and wing cases. It absorbs very well for holding heads together.

Shoe Goo comes in a squeeze tube and it does thicken after time into an unusable glob. It seems to me you would have to squeeze it out into a bottle and then mix it. It does stay flexible for a long time and it's very tough.

I think the solution for you would be just tie more flies before your Zap get hard. 😁

Have you tried keeping your Zap a Gap in the beer cooler in your fly tying room. CA glue stays good longer if you keep it in the fridge between uses. We use a lot of it and sell it in my store.

Zap a Gap also make a product similar to Shoe Goo in a smaller tube. It dries fairly quickly. Most of the Guides around here use it when making a Yarn Indicator. Jim Pettus being the originator and king of yarn indicators. 

Barry

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11 hours ago, SilverCreek said:

Dave's Flexament is a form of dilute urethane adhesive. Aquaseal thinned with toluol/toluene will duplicate Dave's Flexament.

Cotol 240, the thinner for Aquaseal is mainly Toluene as seen in this MSDS for Cotol 240. Toluene is the major ingredient (99.25%) in Cotol-240 and the amount of dibutyltin dilaurate is 0.75%.

http://www.nrs.com/global/msds/MSDS 2293 Cotol.pdf

Shoe Goo is also urethane but Aquaseal is better because it is clear and not a tan color.

 

Its been years since I thinned Shoe Goo but it was clear, IIRC.

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12 hours ago, Gene L said:

Its been years since I thinned Shoe Goo but it was clear, IIRC.

Maybe the current version is but I still have Shoo Goo in sealed tubes from the 1970's and 80's when I played tennis 3-5X  week. It is a light tan.

I was a toe dragger on my serve and Shoe Goo  saved me a lot of $$. Hint - if you make a "dam" by taping a lip of masking take around the toe you can rebuild the front of a tennis shoe with Shoo Goo.

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Not sure what Mikey’s referring to as large bottles.   On big stuff I like the brush bottles.   The little ones are $1 at DT...Have to open the hole with bodkin occasionally.

 

42A1A59D-C2FE-4533-8919-54A83069BB8C.jpeg

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If you can find a tube of Ambroid glue in your local hobby store (or online), mix it 50/50 with toluene solvent (also hard to find) to get a very flexible true glue that bonds extremely well even when wet.  Wood and canvas canoe makers have used Ambroid for decades to glue the canvas. 

 

This stuff:

 

 

 

ambroid.jpg

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Shoe goo is the same material as fleximent, and both are thinned with Xylene.  Xylene needs to be used in a well ventilated area, and avoid breathing the fumes. For that reason it isn't a popular.  There IS a faster drying alternative now from Gorilla Glue.  Its called contact cement, and also can be thinned with Xylene, but the tack free drying time is about 10 to 15 minutes.  Still needs a longer full cure before using.   

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On 6/2/2020 at 7:32 PM, SilverCreek said:

Maybe the current version is but I still have Shoo Goo in sealed tubes from the 1970's and 80's when I played tennis 3-5X  week. It is a light tan.

I was a toe dragger on my serve and Shoe Goo  saved me a lot of $$. Hint - if you make a "dam" by taping a lip of masking take around the toe you can rebuild the front of a tennis shoe with Shoo Goo.

I also have shoo goo for more than 6 years as i am also playing tennis 3-4 times a week. These shoes really help me. if you guys wanted to know about the best tennis shoes you can check here.

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Revived thread, so why not update...

After using thinned shoe goo,  shoe goo without thinner, nail polish, and Aileen's flexible stretchable, I broke down and returned to using zap a gap medium. I missed it.

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8 hours ago, chugbug27 said:

Revived thread, so why not update...

After using thinned shoe goo,  shoe goo without thinner, nail polish, and Aileen's flexible stretchable, I broke down and returned to using zap a gap medium. I missed it.

Please explain why you went back to zap a gap. What was wrong with the other methods?

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For reinforcing stripped herl, biots, hackle stems, etc wrapped as bodies. 

1. Easy to use a little and not gunk everything up.

2. I prefer to glue the material onto the thread base and not coat with shiny UV or polish. Less like a rock, more like a bug, is my unproven theory.

3. Side benefits abound -- apply to thread before whip finish, reinforce packed deer hair, etc

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