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You mean like the snap part of a snap swivel? I would think that wouldn't work very well for a fly. It'll throw off the appearance of the profile and might cause it to sit weirdly in the water. You could try using a threader to make threading the line through the eye of the fly easier. I haven't used them before but it's basically the same concept as a needle threader. 

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Was the hook eye blocked with head cement? or the eye crowded by the tied head? I use a magnetic threader for smaller sizes (18 and lower) at times, 14's are not usually that bad (for me) you can use the quick clips fly holders but my experience with them has only been for dropper rigged leaders on wets and I did not care for them. Never tried clips on dry flies but I am sure others have. As flykid said they also make fly threaders ( C&F ) that I have used in colder weather for small flies like winter caddis 20's and smaller. Threaders have the advantage of storing  loaded in the box , also by C&F, so you end up spending more.

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The clips are not an good solution, they will sink most small dry flies.   If your tying flies, always run a scrap piece of feather through the hook eye after you finish the head with polish, or whatever you like to use. You always have the fluffy ends of any hackle you use handy.  Just find one of the right size.   Then you know the eye is clear.  On stream, use a needle threader used in sewing is one answer, and There are some threaders marketed to fly anglers and at one times orvis sold a fly box with the threaders built in.  The one shown, was a box I got for my mother.  She loved it.  I keep it for when I can't see the tiny bugs any longer.  

 

Eye_cleaner.JPG

Threader_box.JPG

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Thanks, i really was looking for a quicker change in flys . Yes i had a couple that the eye was blocked i couldnt figure out why i couldnt get the line thru till i tried putting a hook point through it lol. But i finally cleared it. 

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7 hours ago, [email protected] said:

Thanks, i really was looking for a quicker change in flys . Yes i had a couple that the eye was blocked i couldnt figure out why i couldnt get the line thru till i tried putting a hook point through it lol. But i finally cleared it. 

As has been made clear, the best time to make sure the eye is clear is before the hook leaves your vise. Once, I learned it, I never regretted following that advise (the feather technique is good).  It's hard enough trying to get the mono through the eye in the half-dark without worrying whether the eye is blocked--lately I've been bringing a small flashlight!

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22 hours ago, [email protected] said:

Thanks, i really was looking for a quicker change in flys .

How long does it take to tie a clinch knot?  As for tying, what flytire said. To add, when you add materials resist the urge to tie them off/in closer to the eye than your index point.

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I have not used head cement in years. Save time and use a 4 to 5 turn ship finish with the wraps made TOWARD the hook eye. The direction is important!

Whip towards eye leaves nothing exposed.

34883021874_07167d59e8_m.jpg

Whip away from eye and there is an exposed section thread that can be pulled out

34883021964_757d21a20b_m.jpg

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i just orders some fly clips   i change flies alot and aml azy and will end up with a very short leader real quick.i dont use small flies so i dont think it will effect them

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15 hours ago, Sandan said:

How long does it take to tie a clinch knot? 

exactly.

the fish will still be there waiting for that beautifly tied fly

 

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Sometimes the fish need the break in the action lol, truly. 20 minutes is about right. People think wow I changed to that fly what a pattern, when really you stopped slapping the water for a few minutes. Next fly to hit the water and wham ! Again truly/seriously.

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For many years I had no use for these things. I put them in the same category as leader links and those barbed eyelets that you push into the end of a fly line, something to sucker beginners who don't know how to rig up. But lately I use them in one application. 

On stillwater I often fish with a bugger (or other fly) tied onto the tag end of a surgeon's knot and then a small nymph 18-24" behind that on the long tippet. I like to keep the tag end short to avoid tangles. A clip on the tag allows me to change the upper fly at will without shortening the tag. I don't use one on the trailing fly since it is usually a small nymph and there is plenty of tippet available.

I know another experienced fly fisherman who sometimes slides one onto the leader above a blood knot and attaches a nymph there.

I don't think I'd ever use one with a dry fly or small nymph.

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23 minutes ago, Jaydub said:

For many years I had no use for these things. I put them in the same category as leader links and those barbed eyelets that you push into the end of a fly line, something to sucker beginners who don't know how to rig up. But lately I use them in one application. 

On stillwater I often fish with a bugger (or other fly) tied onto the tag end of a surgeon's knot and then a small nymph 18-24" behind that on the long tippet. I like to keep the tag end short to avoid tangles. A clip on the tag allows me to change the upper fly at will without shortening the tag. I don't use one on the trailing fly since it is usually a small nymph and there is plenty of tippet available.

I know another experienced fly fisherman who sometimes slides one onto the leader above a blood knot and attaches a nymph there.

I don't think I'd ever use one with a dry fly or small nymph.

Still have a couple of the barbed eyelets. Qualify as antiques now, after 60 years? Didn't know any fly flingers in those days so it was a learning process. Still is.

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