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fiveonomo

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Tying Tools

 
This list of beginners tying tools is simply a list based on my 40+ years’ experience in fly tying. It is a BASIC list.
 
This list is provided for your convenience and in no way requires you to buy all tying tools all at once or any tools for that matter. It is also a generic list of tools as I really don't have any preferences as to what brand of materials you buy.
 
Any brands mentioned are purely for examples, not an endorsement.
 
Again, you do not have to buy the entire list all at once!
 
Buy what you want when you need it!
 
In addition, buy the items that are affordable to you. There is no need to spend $$$$$ on tying tools when $$ are available and just as good to get you started.
 
Essential
 
*Tying Vise – Stationary, rotating or full rotating vises are all available to the beginner.
Which vise you purchase is your decision. A good idea is to try them out at your local fly shop to see which vise will work for you.
 
EXAMPLES
 
Stationary – Does not rotate the hook
Thompson Model A. Great to learn on and the least expensive.
 
Rotating – Rotates the hook but not around the hook axis
Regal, HMH, Anvil etc. C-clamp or pedestal versions.
 
Full Rotating – Rotates the hook directly in line with the hook axis
Renzetti, Peak, J-Vise etc. C-clamp or pedestal versions.
 
*Bobbin Holder – Purchase a bobbin holder that has a ceramic tube or a ceramic insert in the tip of the tube. You can purchase stainless steel tube bobbin holders for use with ribbing wire, lead/non-lead wire and other tying materials.
                                  
*Scissors – An inexpensive pair of Fiskar 4-inch dressmakers’ scissor is an excellent start and will cut just about any material out there. Yes you can cut wire with your scissors, just cut close to the pivot point
 
There are too many scissor manufacturers to list here. See this recent article on scissors:
 
 
 
Less essential but useful later on in your tying adventure
 
Whip finisher – There is the “Matterelli” style and the “Thompson” style whip finishers. Learning to whip finish with your fingers will save you a few bucks. Fingers are free!
              
Bodkin - The bodkin is mainly used to put on head cement but has other uses such as picking out dubbing to make fuzzy bodies, picking out trapped hackle fiber from under ribbing wire, clearing out head cement from the hook eye etc. A bodkin is a simple DIY project. Just stick a needle into a small diameter dowel and voila! Bodkin.
 
Half Hitch Knot Tool – This tool is for tyers who can’t or won’t use a whip finisher. Used to make half hitches at the hook eye to finish the head. Each tool has a different diameter hole drilled in each end to support different diameter hook eye sizes.
 
Hackle Plier – Used to grasp the tip of a hackle to wrap around the hook shank. Fingers still work great for holding and winding hackles.
 
Hair Stacker – After cutting hairs off of the skin, insert the hair tip end down into the hair stacker to even the tips of various types of hair such as buck tail, deer, elk, moose etc. Some experienced tyers still prefer to finger/hand stack hairs to prevent the paint brush look of stacked hairs produced from a stacker.
 
Hair Packer – This tool is more suited for the tyer who wants to tie deer hair style bass and pike/musky fly patterns.
 
Tweezers – This tool has many uses around the tying bench. Can be used to pick out fibers of errant materials, picking up hooks, holding beads etc.
 
Dubbing Teaser – This is another DIY project. Glue a strip of Velcro to a popsicle stick or coffee stirrer and use it to scruff up dubbing for a fuzzy body
 
Dubbing Twister – Use this tool in conjunction with a dubbing loop of thread and spiky dubbing to help create dubbed bodies, small dubbing brushes right on the hook shank etc. There are many styles of dubbing twisters. Search on-line and make a choice of which one you want.
 
Comb – Ideal for removing underfur from hairs or furs. Especially useful for coming out the underfur on deer hair and buck tails for spinning hair and making streamers. A simple moustache comb is a good choice or combs made of antler.
 
Bobbin holder threader – Insert the flexible wire loop into the bobbin holder thread tube, insert the thread into the loop and pull the tool to thread the bobbin holder. Totally not needed as you can insert the thread into the tube, put the tube in your mouth and draw/suck the thread through the tube. Dental floss threaders are an option.
 
* A vise, bobbin holder and scissors are three basic tools that will get a beginner into tying flies.
 
Poor quality tying tools are destined to discourage beginner tiers and cause greater expense when the time comes to replace them. Buy the best you can.
 
 
Fly Tying Kits (Controversial but there are good kits if you really want one)
 
 
 
 
Fly Tying Tool Sets
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Tying Materials
 
This list of beginner tying materials is simply a list based on my 39+ years experience in fly tying. The list provided below is for a new tyer who wants to tie trout flies but can spill over to different genres of fly tying. It is a BASIC list. It contains materials that can tie hundreds or even thousands of fly patterns.
 
This list is in no order of preference. This list is provided for your convenience and in no way requires you to buy all tying materials all at once or any materials for that matter. It is also a generic list of materials as I really don't have any preferences as to what brand of materials you buy.
 
Eventually you will need materials if you want to continue tying flies. The list wilL give you a head start as to what you might want to buy.
 
Again, you do not have to buy the entire list all at once!  
 
Buy what you want when you need it!
 
1. Hooks (in different styles and sizes)
2. Thread (6/0 to start in black & white)
3. Pheasant Tail (center feathers when possible for the longest fibers)
4. Peacock Herl (eye feathers and strung herl)
5. Marabou (blood quills are better)
6. Deer hair
7. Elk hair
8. Buck tail (in different colors like black, red, yellow, or white)
9. Lead or non-lead wire (in different sizes)
10. Ribbing wire (silver, copper & gold)
11. Rooster Hackle (grizzly, brown, white & dun) A good option is an introduction pack
12. Hen neck or saddle (grizzly, brown, dun etc) (great for soft hackle & wings)
13. Hungarian Partridge Skin (great for soft hackles)
14. Dubbing dispenser of hares ear (various colors) & superfine dubbing for dry flies
15. Gray duck or goose wing feathers (used for wing cases, biot bodies, tails etc.)
16. Head cement & tying wax (not immediately needed but nice to have on hand)
17. Tinsel and other flash materials (in assorted colors)
18. Calf tail (start with white, add colors when necessary)
19. Yarns & chenille (used for making bodies, both in assorted colors)
20. Floss/Uni-stretch (1 strand or 4 strand in assorted colors)
21. Strung hackle (practice wrapping hackle with this. cheap alternative to the pricey hackles)
22. Beads (not necessary to begin tying flies but if you really need them get them)
23. Rubber legs
 
 
Poor quality materials are destined to discourage beginner tiers and cause greater expense when the time comes to replace them. Buy the best you can.
 
A popular and frequently mentioned recommendation seen on most forums is to pick out 5-10 that you want to learn how to tie. Buy the materials provided in the recipes of those flies. These materials are now the building blocks for tying different fly patterns in the future.
 
Fly Tying Material Kits
 

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@flytire has a a good point about lessons.  Search out fly tying/fishing clubs in your area, many offer lessons (free or nearly so) in the the slow fishing winter months, I know mine does.  

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On 12/10/2020 at 7:51 AM, niveker said:

@flytire has a a good point about lessons.  Search out fly tying/fishing clubs in your area, many offer lessons (free or nearly so) in the the slow fishing winter months, I know mine does.  

FWIW, I was learning out of books  (in the pre-Internet days), and a course consisting of 6 weekly meetings at the local community college improved my flies for good!  My me, the addition of a bobbin, which didn't come as part of my kit) made a huge difference. I've heard some say the bobbin isn't such a big deal, but we all have our own experiences, besides our own hands. : )  I don't have a "ceramic" bobbin, but it's never held me back. OTOH, my bobbin looks slightly better-made to me than many of those  I see for sale now.

P.S. Maybe one of the best things you get out of lessons, is the point of view that tying a fly is a 5 or 6 (or 10) step process.  No one ever really said that, but that's what goes through my mind when tying.   So in that sense, the process is organized (and not needlessly rushed).  Each step has something of a goal (and if it's not achieved, consider doing it again).  I have "reclaimed" plenty of hooks with my handy razor blade.

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14 hours ago, fiveonomo said:

Thanks Sandan!  I went with the Regal Revolution Stainless Jaw Vise, got the tool bar and all in a custom orange color.  I shouldn't need another vise.  Maybe the big game head if I get into the saltwater stuff like I eventually want to.  I talked to one of my buddies today and he told me he would keep some deer hair/tails for me.  I can't wait to get started, I should pick up my vise on Monday.

@fiveonomo Nice vise. Use it well. Follow utyer's advice on those materials. Enjoy your adventure. It only keeps getting better.

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Thanks everyone for all of the great information!!  My fly shop is starting a beginners class in January and I have already got my name on the list, I can't wait!  I am picking everything up tomorrow and I am pretty excited, I'll let you all know how it goes and maybe post a picture of my new tools tomorrow.

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On 12/9/2020 at 8:03 PM, fiveonomo said:

Thanks Sandan!  I went with the Regal Revolution Stainless Jaw Vise, got the tool bar and all in a custom orange color.  I shouldn't need another vise.  Maybe the big game head if I get into the saltwater stuff like I eventually want to.  I talked to one of my buddies today and he told me he would keep some deer hair/tails for me.  I can't wait to get started, I should pick up my vise on Monday.

Nice vise Bro !👍😊

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Books and Youtube are useful. If you can take lessons, all the better. Flytire has an excellent list of tools. My list of materials would be much shorter as I only tie about 6 patterns for Southeast Tennessee up to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

The only stupid question is the one not asked- Dad.

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Read this Barry Ord Clarke article Fly tying kit for the new beginner.
On these links below you have a large number of patterns with video tutorials. Great fly tying site

Dry fly patterns
Emerger patterns 
Nymph patterns 
Streamer patterns
Wet flies patterns
Deer Hair techniques

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If you want to tie Saltwater patterns, by all means do so.  In my opinion, they are easier to get started with, simply because of their size.  The materials list is different and the volume of materials required to tie Salt patterns is much greater.  I recommend that you buy the book "Essential Saltwater Flies" by Ed Jaworoski.  Lefty Kreh said, "if it ain't Chartreuse, it ain't no use."!  You will likely want to learn to tie a Clouser Minnow, which is fairly simple but has some subtleties. Bunny flies are fairly straight forward, as are poppers.  A Bob's Banger is a simple but effective popper.  The Lefty's Deceiver is simple to tie, but getting the proportions right has always been challenging to me.  The great thing about saltwater patterns is that they are larger and easier to see and hold.   The bad thing is that you will burn through a lot of materials and require non-corroding hooks.  Stainless steel is generally used along with Duratin, as far as hooks go.  They are generally a little bit more expensive than freshwater hooks.  Saltwaterflies.com has a lot of Saltwater specific items.  Also, check out Fly Tier's Dungeon (FTD) for cheap but effective synthetic materials.  Losing or throwing away a fly with FTD materials will not cause the same amount of despair as losing one tied with EP fibers.

For saltwater patterns I usually tie with Uni-thread in a size 6/0.  Generally color to match the materials, such as Chartreuse, pink or whatever.   Some people tie with white and then color the thread just before tying off the head. You will probably also want some Monofilament clear thread.  Some Saltwater tiers use only monofilament thread. Danville makes a good one, I believe.  Sally Hansen's fingernail polish is often used as head cement on Saltwater flies.  Don't be afraid to use super glue.in your tying.  Lock tite is a good over the counter brand.  Epoxy vs UV resin is a controversial subject that I will not go into.  Just read through the posts concerning this.  Liquid fusion also has its place.

Check out Captain Bob LeMay's posts on this site.  His flies are what any Saltwater tier should aspire to.  

Congratulations on your Regal vice.  I have had a Regal for years and have no regrets.  

I am glad that you have joined a class.  That will flatten your learning curve and will help keep you from picking up bad habits.  Remember, it is all about durability, proportion and finish.  Neat heads are the sign of a good tier.   Neat, well proportioned heads have always been difficult for me.

As Flytier said, buy good materials.  You cannot tie a good fly from substandard materials.  Maybe some can, but I cannot.  If you post your flies and ask for feedback, you will get honest feedback on this forum.  

The materials list for Saltwater tying usually includes

Strung rooster hackle in various colors to suit.  You will likely use a lot of white

Bucktail in various colors. ( White, Chartreuese, Pink, Brown, Gray and on and on)

Popper heads, foam cylinders, etc.

Eyes--various types, but reflective eyes are used a lot.

beadchain  and/or dumbell eyes.

Reflective tape

Flashabou and Krystal flash.  Pearl color is the most commonly used.

Good luck.

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Look at this article - especially at the bottom, if you are interested in a suggestion for a tying materials list - Don't tie flies | Global FlyFisher | This is in reality a declaration of love to the art and craft of tying fishing flies with lots of tips for the beginning fly-tyer.

I have a feeling that this may be deja vue!

Kim

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Lessons are best, but in the COVID-19 environment, probably not realistic. Get yourself a copy of the late Dick Talleur's "Talleur's Fly Tying" (the one with the red and black cover) ISBN  9781558215191. Used on AbeBooks for $5, and Amazon for about $13., but price varies a lot. It is well written and designed for the novice, and yet teaches some techniques that most don't learn for years.  Each chapter has a progression of flies, each increasing in complexity and adding new skills you will use for a lifetime.  The only drawback of the book, is that it does not come with a shopping list for each chapter.  But you can do that.  If you have access to a fly shop, tell them the flies you are material shopping for, as there are lots of subtle differences in hackles and dubbings. Also, tie about a dozen of each fly to really understand the hand motions and fly proportions. 

Of the tools that flytire listed as optional, I would recommend these as required:

  • Bodkin - make a few with needles and corks or dowels
  • Materelli-style whip finisher - worth the price, and it has illustrated instructions (mine was pre-YouTube, so good instructions were essential then)
  • Hackle pliers - especially for dry fly hackle if not using long and pricey Whiting dry fly hackle
  • Fur (mustache) comb - if you ever want to tie Wulff style flies with calf tail
  • TWO pairs of scissors - cheap ones for wire, plastic, tinsel, and bucktail, (or spend a couple bucks more for serrated edge) and a more expensive pair with fine blades for feathers only ($10 on eBay will get you 1-2 pairs of surgical iris scissors, and you can spend 10x that if that's your thing)

Enjoy!

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Thanks everyone for the great info in this post.  I’m sorry i had missed this one the last few weeks, not sure how that happened.  

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