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Current angler, it seems to work great. Even the curly Q bulbs were showing glare. The bonnets soften the light and cut glare on the vise or anything that would reflect light. A book I have that was written for me, Digital Photography for Dummies, mentioned softening the light. I shot a series of photos showing the stages of tying a fly that has been around for over 100 years. Article was in On The Fly South.

 

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You will need a tri-pod. Also use the timer where you press the button and then it clicks off a few seconds before taking the picture. This will eliminate the shake from pressing the button. 

When you jack up the f-stop (higher number) the aperture opening gets smaller. The smaller the aperture the less light that gets in so the longer the shutter has to stay open to get the correct amount of exposure. You can add more light but it will always come down to a slower shutter speed. The slower shutter speed is why you need the tri-pod and should use the timer on the button to eliminate blurr from movement during the slow shutter speed. 

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Leave the camera in AV mode. Use a higher F-stop ..f11,f16 or f22. Make sure you are shooting off something steady and make sure you have sufficient light. The higher the aperture number (fstop), the less light enters the camera. The lower the f-stop #, more light is allowed in.

Assuming you have sufficient light,an f-stop setting of f11,f16 or f22 should give you better depth of field. 

 

Just remember fstop number is the aperture setting on the lens

HIgh number f11 and up achieves a deeper depth of field

Lower numbers like f2.8 or f4 achieves a shallower depth of field.

This article explains it fairly simply

https://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-depth-field-beginners/

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