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Fly Tying

jbenenson

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About jbenenson

  • Rank
    Beginner
  • Birthday 08/29/1943

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  • Website URL
    http://www.stoneflyrods.org
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  • Location
    Santa Fe, NM
  1. The current contest in American Angler is for soft hackles. Entries must be submitted by mid-May. See the March issue for details. I think your fly definitely should be entered.
  2. I carry my dries in several styles of boxes. The cheap plastic ones with open compartments are my preferred style, as I want to protect the hackles. I tend to put too many in each compartment, so when I want just one I get a few (a problem in the wind).
  3. I left out a step on the instructions. After wrapping the thread to mid-shank, tie in the tail fibers the length of the hook, then proceed with the Krystal Flash
  4. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Baetis flash nymph
  5. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Green caddis worm
  6. Most successful flies of this genre have legs (or leg representations), so I would incorporate some into your fly. The Wooly Bugger is famous for a reason; I happen to think it's a leggy body and marabou.
  7. I REALLY like the looks of this fly!
  8. I can't imagine tying without a rotary vise. I've been using one for about a decade (a Renzetti Presentation 4000) and recently added a Danvise for use in my office. Here are some of the advantages (not necessarily in order)... Most important IMHO: you can tie and view the fly 360 degrees. 1) In a conventional vise you can't see the far side of the fly. 2) trout see dry flies from underneath; you view them from the side with a conventional vise. Wrapping anything along the shank goes much more smoothly (uniformity and tension) using a rotary than by hand. This is particularly important when wrapping conventional and palmered hackle. Tying properly-positioned material anywhere on the shank is easier (top, bottom, sides, in-between). Wrapping the base of divided wings and posts is a cinch: rotate the wing/post to the top position and wrap with ease. Spinning material "ropes" (including dubbing loops) is easy. Half-hitch first (important!) then hold the materail and thread out over the eye and twist away, pull everything 90 degs downward, then continue twisting to wrap the material. This is nicely shown on Beatty's video. Trimming spun deer hair is easily done while the fly is still in the vise. Once you get proficient, wrapping and tying goes much faster with a rotary. Stick with it and you'll never go back, IMHO.
  9. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Olive Flash soft hackle
  10. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: Patriot
  11. I had the same problem. If you aren't wedded to the Loon product, change brands. It's not worth the frustration IMHO.
  12. One of my "favorite" screw-ups is tying in ribbing/hackle/biot/etc at the tail, wrapping the thread (with or without dubbing) to the front, half-hitch, then having the material pull out. I haven't decided between retying with new thread at the tail or wrapping the thread back to the tail again. Either way, it's a pain.
  13. Here is my CFR Royal Wulff. I like the look of the pink wings.
  14. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: CFR Parachute Adams
  15. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by jbenenson: CFR Parachute Adams
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