cutthroat.trout

Cool fly--does anyone know how's the action in the water? Thanks for bringing this one up to the top...

Very cool!! I like that a lot. I could see that done up in a lot of colors, and maybe with metallic for the shank wraps for a bunch of variations.

A bat while fly fishing at Sundance Wyoming.

Hey Tyrite-- Gotta agree with you on the marabou--especially when you tie it in real thick and if you wanted to you could do dual hooks with marabou down the whole extension like a Mepps Musky Killer:

Hey NJ-- Try furling some craft yarn called disco made by bernat. It comes in silver, gold, hot pink, black, blue, white, and a few others...purple, and olive I think. Anyway, it's all synthetic, sheds water well, builds up a good bulk, it's durable, doesn't fade, and breathes a lot like marabou but it has a large quantity of sparkle to it. If I get the time I'll put one together and snap a photo.

How about a presentation on how acid rain was overblown to the max and is now almost unheard of publicly? Sort of a cry wolf type of paper that uses data from the government's National Acid Rain Precipitation Assessment Program controlled studies that showed that forests did not die as a result of acidic precipitation even in amounts as much as 10X the acid quantity as typical acid rain as it was so commonly stated... Or how about a paper establishing the possibility of negative effects of tidal, wind, and solar cell generators on the environment? I don't have an expertise here but like any type of energy, when used to do something non-natural, like spin a blade or heat a cell, this energy doesn't continue on to do it's former natural thing like heat the ground and air, biodegradation, cause wind to blow, perform photosynthesis, tidal energy that is captured no longer affects the underwater environment it used to work on, what organisms are there that can no longer survive near these types of energy scavenging?

Costco had a two person and a one person kayak--the single would make a difficult fishing vessel with a fly rod since it's cockpit isn't really large enough to keep the rod anywhere without it falling into the water. The double on the other hand would work great, but it's equally as heavy as a canoe which is why I bought a canoe instead of a pair of kayaks for my wife and I. I don't recall for sure what the price was but I think it was $399 They used to have float pontoons there as well-- $225 or so. Look for used canoes--I bought mine for $225 it's an Old Town. Some inflatables kind of freak me out--I've rescued two different float tubers in belly boats who were sinking slowly enough that it became too late for them to get to shore before they realized they had a leak.

I'd think you could spin and pack deer hair right around the eyes if you wanted to. I like Joe Cornwall's reasoning behind not using deer hair on the modern thief--which is why bother with deer hair if you're building a sinking fly. I'm pretty sure an unweighted jig hook when attached to a tippet would run like you want as long as it was tied with enough long material on the "top" so that it acts like a parachute or streamer on the fall. This would fall slower than your sinking line though. Here's an Upside Down Sculpin Upside Down Sculpin By Bob Shaffer

I think given the materials were similar in color and makeup I'd say the benefits of one over the other are minimal. Chenille is perhaps easier to dress, possibly cheaper, and provides you with an ability to add perceived bulk to an otherwise fine wired hook whether it's for flies or jigs. It is more difficult to vary the thickness or profile of a fly or jig made from chenille on a hook than dubbing in a way that is eye appealing. Alternately, dubbing has the option of being brushed or dressed loose, picked out, or spun tight, "noodled" or dubbing looped on, etc. giving it a slight advantage in appearance, translucency, and perhaps motion as well as profile. The question we all have to answer for ourselves is "Does it matter?" and I think at times it does with selective fish that have been educated, but at times it does not matter because a fish may have such a fleeting moment of time to decide on this "meal" that detailed analysis isn't possible. That's just my opinion--

Here ya go! Click on either item below: Ten Great Michigan Flies by Bob Linsenman

Google books will show you some excerpt pages out of the book with color photos etc. http://books.google.com/books?id=7Mlj4L-Py...o50yLZw#PPP1,M1

This is my current favorite fly for carp...they're fun! :headbang: Olive Crystal Bugger with a bead head My story--I was goofing around with my favorite stream trout rod a 4 wt Winston with a Marryat reel--with an old tapered leader that was too short and stout for any real serious fishing and I decided I'd throw one of these flies out from the lake shore I live a mile from. A few short twitches and figure eights and wham! Strike--set the hook and zzzzzzzzzzzz.......zzzzzz.......zzzzz Out to sea goes this carp. It took out more line and backing than a Montana reservoir rainbow. :bugeyes: I was seriously worried for the condition of this rod--it's not something I can afford to replace, but since my leader was so stout I had two choices--I could either cut my backing and lose a $60 fly line or I could land this fish at risk of breaking stuff. 20 minutes later I landed the fish--measured 32 inches. The only thing I've caught that was longer is pike. A tip for shore fishing on lakes for carp--sneak up to the bank and cast landing your fly 3-4 feet from shore. Lots of these big fish sit right up next to shore, especially if there's flowage like a dam spillway nearby, or an inlet. Oh yeah, if you get into the dumb situation like I did, don't fight the fish with the rod so much--fight it on the reel and use the drag (point the rod at the fish) You'll still get to keep your rod, and carp are usually so strong you know it's a carp--or a snapping turtle--they feel the same, and either one will break your stuff. --Matt

VERY cool fly! :headbang: Thanks for posting this! --Matt

One of my favorite ways to fasten things like cork or foam bodies is to start the thread on the hook, then cut a length of like 20 lb monofilament that is the same length as the body and fully wrap this on the top of the hook. Then I'll use superglue in the slotted body like the others have mentioned. What this does is keep things solidly bonded and from spinning. If you need more gluing surface you can use a piece of mono below as well. I make a tiny crease type fly for bass that lasts a long time because of this mono. --Matt

What J.Z says is valid. Unlike striking instantly as with mayfly or caddis dries, try waiting using either the 1 Mississippi count or until you determine that you can't see the fly through the raise ripple rings, then strike, or simple lift the rod smoothly but quickly. Another potential issue with frog, mouse, or other deer hair bugs or foam or deer hair poppers etc. is some people tie the hook gap full of material, making the hook's intended hooking ability much less than designed. Shave the bottom of the pattern off and try that, as well as waiting and see what happens. The key I think to waiting with these flies versus not waiting with insect emulating flies is the fish is expecting a mouthful of substance with the mouse or frog, therefore they hang on longer and must position the meal to down it later. But with insect emulating flies that is not so, and in general the fish expects to get that fly nearly down their gullet in one gulp if the fish is sizable. I also think perhaps this is why it seems to be easier to hook smaller fish. They don't expect to down even a small insect without repositioning the meal, so they hold the fly longer as well.