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Fly Tying

amateurforever

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About amateurforever

  • Rank
    Beginner

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  • Favorite Species
    Chub, Carp, Brown Trout, Pike
  • Security
    22
  1. Hi I know you would reply Daiichi is just fantastic, but what about this special hook? Is it any good for general dry fly tying use? It's not made of 1X fine wire I guess, so am just afraid it would be a little heavy. Thanks for all comments Mohsen
  2. Many thanks again, for your very informative and helpful comments. No. We're not using it for high RPMs like NorVise. I haven't had any problems rotary tying body materials and hackle on #20s.
  3. Thank you again. Very helpful comment, but just another question: Is it true that since the head position on the Peak vise is not adjustable, it will be difficult to apply the rotation feature to small hooks, since the hook's shank will stay away from the rotation axis?
  4. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Now I think I will take the DanVise into the consideration as well.
  5. By the way, I wrote to the company asking about this preoblem, and here's the reply: Our jaws are hardened tool steel so it is possible for them to rust, especially in a high humidity environment. However, a light coating of oil such as WD-40 wiped on with a rag when the vise is not in use will keep this from happening. Thank you, Al Ritt the solution is just the way you said. and I like the way they answered, very clear.
  6. Rust? I though the jaws are made from stainless steel!!!
  7. Thank you for your warm welcome. Just like you said, that's the reason I need to start with a nice, long life vise! I know this way has no returns, so should get prepared very well... Best
  8. Actually, that's why I do not like to go with DanVise, because I'm some kind of harsh guy with big and strong hands, that would destroy everything easily. Thanks Mohsen quote name='poksal' timestamp='1315972531' post='478314'] Don't be so fast about the DanVise.. The bad reports are mostly by people that tighten them too tight. I LOVE mine.... and the price kicks butt. It takes very LITTLE cam pressure to hold the hooks. For a beginner it provides you with the features you need without investing more money until prove you really want to stick with it. But, I'm sticking with my DanVise.
  9. Thank you everybody for the comments. It's so encouraging seeing experienced people taking care of amateurs. I read the reviews and comments and came up to choose between Anvil Apex and Peak and now have 2 questions now: 1. Is it a big deal the difference between an in-line rotary and a rotary vice (like Anvil Apex)? I mean some people believe that the in-line one leaves little room behind the jaws. On the other hand I saw a video, somebody was using an HMH vise, which was not in-line rotary, very well. 2. What fly sizes are normally used for saltwater and Pike (which I think I will start with them in the future)? . The Apex holding range is #3-22 and the Peak range is #2-22. I do not know if I will go behind the range of Apex, but if yes, then the Peak has the option of different jaws. Thanks Mohsen
  10. Hi I see this part is for very beginners, so I ask my question here. I've decided to start fly tying, but then I'm stock in the very first step! What vice to buy? The point is that I do not want to buy something very cheap, so that I will need to replace it in a while. I do not know if a fixed head vise will suffice? Or soon I'll start with rotary techniques? If I will, then I will need an in-line rotary one, or a head angle adjustable one (like Anvil Apex) will be fine? I have come out to these choices: Peak non-rotary Anvil Apex Anvil Atlas Peak rotary Danvise is not a choice, since I have read some negative comments about it. I usually fish for chub, carp and brown trout. But intend to start with pike as well. Thanks in advanced Mohsen
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