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DarrellP

epoxy vs UV, which is tougher?

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ive had experience with uv resin cracking and peeling off (most likely my fault in preparation of base surface) but i wouldnt hesitate using uv resin in built up layers

 

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or

 

use epoxy. but if mixed in unequal parts may not harden correctly/completely. i do know epoxies will turn yellow after some time

 

either one banged on rocks will suffer some damage

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Either one can be good.

I believe you should go with the "flexible" type, though. Anything that hardens/dries/cures into a HARD coating will, by definition, be brittle. Foam, cork, a bundle of hair or feathers ... one thing they all have in common: A good fish can bite hard enough to make an impression. With hard cure epoxies or resins, that equals a cracked coating. With flexible, a hole maybe, but the coating should still be intact.

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My 2 cents. For my own flies, UV, non yellowing, fast setting, epoxy does yellow with time and for best results needs to be rotated during the cure time. That said if I was tying a lot of them (selling) epoxy is the winner for economy. For plugs and poppers CrystaLac Crabcoat marine finish brushable or spray, non yellowing, I use it on surf plugs holds up well, easy to recoat if needed (bluefish) under $20 for 8 oz (a little pricey) also sold by pint quart or gallon from them directly.

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Epoxy is far more durable. That's why musky/salt/pike guys epoxy eyes on vs. using even glue or uv resin. But, most epoxies will yellow over time, just depends if that matters to you. Check out @deltabassbugs on Instagram, he's been using what I believe is flex seal liquid clear and it's a deep shine and super durable.

That said, in this application- try Raidzap Flex. Check them out on instagram- I've tied roughly 36 poppers with it thus far and it's held up. They run over a soft foam head coated with their product in an add- for softer foam it doesn't peel and crack like other uv resins or like loon soft head might under a lot of pressure.

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If you do epoxy and have a turner shop slow cure gone isn't an issue west systems gflex they make a clear hardener for it as well as one with a yellow tint just about the toughest epoxy out there, as a general rule with epoxies the slower the cure the more crack resistant it will be.

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Impossible to answer. Many grades of epoxy, many grades of UV Resin. Depends on what you are using.

 

Personally for my UV resin I use Loctite Resins. Not marketed for fly tying but I have experience with them from my day job (3106 thin, and 3525 thick).

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For years I used the 5 minute epoxy. It was a pain having to rotate it with the vise till it set up. And it definitely yellow, I have several year old flies that prove that. I've had it crack on soft body poppers. I think as a result of putting too heavy a coat on them. So far I haven't had any issues with the UV resins cracking or peeling. I don't use that heavy a coat on them. It's much quicker and I think easier to use. I just picked up a bottle of the Solarez Flex resin and used it on some poppers made out of craft foam and I like the results. Almost has the feel of silicone. As far as Surf Candies go, it's a two step process when applying either epoxy or UV resin. First coat to saturate the body materials. When that's dry or cured apply a second coat to give you a smooth finish. Even epoxy doesn't hold up to bluefish. This one was chewed up by a bunch of snapper blues(8 to 10 inches long)

 

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Not sure what is tougher, but the UV is costly but instant and dang hard. I stopped using epoxy, too slow but I don't have rotary deal, don't want one. I have tried all kinds of mat'l for poppers and the difference in mine is they are consumables not works of art. Lately I stopped the Testors/cork deals for some hard foam and even some soft styrofoam balls. You gotta use the UV on the styrofoam cuz everything else melts them. Coating 2,3 times with UV makes them like hard plastic balls, quite hard but could get expensive. Trying to top with SallyHansens can work but if there's a flaw in the UV coating it will start melting... Mostly on soft, hard foam what have you I cover with SallyH then sprinkle glitter combos and recoat couple of times getting eyes on, stripes. Quick and if indoubt about hardness coat with UV. The worst I found for wear, i.e. bounce of the outboard on back cast are the premade hard foam. Chip, break every time sometimes in half. Got a pic of a packing foam glitter popper I used on 3 fish limit trips few OB strikes and the SallyH is a lil fuzzy but still got the popper ready to go. UV and SallyH for me forget the epoxy and paint. Prolly matter of preference, artistry, durability not just consumability with ease, speed making them. Still some reasonable durability. The ready made moderately hard foam hold up great and don't need painting just jazzing up. But that's not the topic. Durability ain't just in the coating as some have alluded...

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(Misipi)

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I'd have to go with epoxy. I have done some playing with UV and it seems the outside cures but a few millimeters in the resin does not cure because the UV does not penetrate - at least not in a few days. LOVE it for heads and wing case "lids", though.

 

Once epoxy "kicks" it doesn't matter how thick (unless it overheats - but that's unlikely in small quantities). You can also add wood flour, micro balloons, dyes or colloidal silica to make it thicker (like catsup) or lighter or colored.

 

I've constructed boats with gallons of epoxies and I trust it. The longer the hardener cure time the stronger.

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I'd have to go with epoxy. I have done some playing with UV and it seems the outside cures but a few millimeters in the resin does not cure because the UV does not penetrate - at least not in a few days. LOVE it for heads and wing case "lids", though.

You're correct, it won't penetrate, ever. You have to build up layers, since cured UV resin is now a UV blocker.

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has anybody actually applied an over abundance of uv resin to a hook shank, cured it with a uv light and then cracked/broke it open? did uncured resin ooze out? was it just an assumption or real life experience?

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