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9' 7wt 3pc


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59 replies to this topic

#16 xterrabill

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 08:12 AM

thanks
I think I remember reading about that longer set times have better qualities, I believe they have a higher bonding strength in some cases
possibly due to the longer time it takes to cure allows for better penetration,
but I have 15 minute open and at hand. (not on them)
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#17 mikechell

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 08:55 AM

No offense, Steve, but I can't figure out how to use rubber bands on the long axis of the handle.

So, I'd probably try this, to "clamp" the coin while the epoxy sets.

 

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#18 Dave G.

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 09:24 AM

If you glue a plug to the back side of the coin the plug will fit in the grip like any other end cap and self center.. Well I don't know if you have a lathe to turn it to size though. I use JB weld on my caps ( sometimes on the seat to blank as well)..


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#19 steeldrifter

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 09:24 AM

It's been said for years that longer set times for epoxy are stronger, and I use to believe that myself because I always heard that to be true for many years, but it actually is not true. It's just one of those things that people have heard for years so they believe it to be true but they never tested the theory. The bonding strength of two part epoxy is dependent on the two chemicals used and not on the set time, the curing time has no effect at all on the strength of the bonding power of the chemicals. The strength of the different set time epoxies actually was tested in Tom K's Rod Maker magazine just with in the past year or two and it was shown that there was no difference between 5 minute, 1 hour or even 24hr cure times.

 

Mike using the rubber band is simple. Just loop it over the rod right in front of the grip and twist it once, then stretch and loop it over the coin/butt cap.

 

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#20 xterrabill

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 10:51 AM

that's exactly how I mentally pictured it Steve,
I have wide hair bands that will do exactly the same thing as the rubber band.
I do like mikes diagram though.

my thoughts on epoxy penetration was based on experience when using it on birch and cardboard/phenolic tubing
and was recommended by manufacturers for that particular application.
I will rough up the surface of the coin also.

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#21 mikechell

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Posted 20 April 2018 - 07:59 PM

Thanks!  


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#22 vicente

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Posted 21 April 2018 - 11:27 PM

I can see the bonding strength being the same Steve however croon my experience repairing skis and snow boards the 24 hour always held up fine the 10 minute might make it for a day or two of use. From what I've heard and experienced it's that the slower set epoxys don't necessarily have a higher bond strength but that they are more flexible.

#23 tjm

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 03:33 AM

I'm confused, I thought epoxy bonded only to a surface with no penetration. My understanding of the different times was that long set times allowed for longer assembly times and that shorter set times allowed for earlier use. Bond strength, I thought was simply a result of chemical reaction. But then, my only experience with epoxies involved concrete and construction materials. ??



#24 ben bell

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 06:41 AM

in rod building some people use 5 min. epoxy to attach the tip-top because it is easier to remove with heat than the longer curing epoxys..there does seem to be a difference between the two, heat wise..

#25 steeldrifter

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 08:17 AM

I've heard guys say that about tip tops for years, but honestly there actually is no difference at all heat wise. I have used strictly 5 minute epoxy for all my rod building on seats and grips for about the past 10 years or so. I've done a large number of repairs when someone broke their rod and wanted me to reuse the same seat on a new build and I can tell you that 5 minute epoxy is extremely heat resistant and holds it's bond even under very high heat. To remove seats I first start out with the end of the rod in boiling water to try to loosen the bond. Sometimes that does not work even after 10-15 minutes of soaking in the boiling water. Then I break out the heat gun (if it is an all metal seat) and use that. It even takes quite a bit of heat from the heat gun to ever get it to loosen up enough to remove.


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#26 ben bell

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 08:54 AM

Thanks Steve..do you still epoxy tip-tops or use another cement..i,ve been using BFATs on my fly rods but the tube is so short that i used epoxy to hold it..Thanks.

#27 steeldrifter

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Posted 22 April 2018 - 09:33 AM

Ben I use to use the normal tip top cement that most rod parts places sell but I found that stuff to really be affected by heat even just out in the sun on a hot summer day. So about 8-10 years ago I started using Krazy glue. The actual Krazy glue brand seems a lot better than some of the other "super glues" so grab a tube of that stuff and I think you'll like it. It holds without problems with no worry about coming off during fishing, yet passing a lighter under it a few times usually is enough to release it if you ever want/need to remove it for any reason. I get mine from the Dollar Tree dollar store.


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Better to have a short life that is full of what you like doin, than a long life spent in a miserable way- Alan Watts

 

 

 


#28 ben bell

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Posted 23 April 2018 - 04:47 AM

Dang..i read somewhere about using crazy glue and thought i,m going to have to try that, then completely forgot about it..thanks for the reminder..don,t get old just get older..

#29 vicente

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Posted 23 April 2018 - 08:19 PM

Steve you might want to check out the "super glue" type stuff usaknifemaker sells they have a good selection and if you're using a good amount of it the price is right for sure, a lot of guys build multi piece handles using only super glue so it's gotta be good glue.

#30 Dave G.

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Posted 24 April 2018 - 02:26 PM

I had 6 minute epoxy around here and misplaced it, you get a true 5 minutes working time from that one.. Before that I used 20 minute which gives a nice working time for a hobby rod builder where you might want to do some mopping up along the way.. Also JB weld has a fast curing blend now that I use on the metal caps against the metal reel seat, you get about ten minutes decent working time out of that . I have used that for mounting reel seats as well but you can get more for your money from regular epoxy... For my grips I use that ( epoxy) or urethane glue but the urethane is an overnight set and you really want to careful how you set it down because things can move on you for the first hour or so of curing.. Tips I use epoxy or tip glue which is basically a hot glue stick actually, but I also wrap a few turns of thread onto the tip. I never tried super glue but think I will now. I just had this idea you might never get it apart and I can crush a tip along with the best of them who do that sort of thing LOL !


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