flytire 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 ....for coating jig heads? is a hair dryer a hot enough heat source for powder coating? what preparation is necessary for the lead? i have never tied jig heads but im looking for answers from tyers that have actually done both Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deaddrifter 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 I've done both and IMO I don't think a hair dryer is enough for powder coating. I actually heat up the jig heads in a flame (hand torch) and then dip in the powder coating. I know the oven is also an option and most temps are in the 325 range. That being said I don't claim to be an expert in powder coating so perhaps someone else will have more thoughts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 a heat gun would be better? ive seen that just a note: i'm tying 12-15 jigs for the jig swap so i dont want to break the bank Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 Heat gun would be more than sufficient. The variable temps on a heat gun can go from 105˚ to 1085˚.You only need about 400˚ for the powder coat.Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stabgnid 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 Flytire I have done both nail polish & powder coat I like powder coat better but there is a leaning curve with powder coating IF I was you I would use finger nail polish 2 coats of white for lighter colors or black for darker colors 1 to seal the lead & 1 for a base coat then 2 or 3 coats of color then 2 coats of SHHAN . Always be sure the hook eye is cleaned out after every coat .. sounds like a lot of work but by the time yo get the last one done you can start all over again just make sure that they are completely dry .. no need to add eyes they are just bling fish don't care Total spent about 5 bucks I have powder coated and tied thousands of jigs when I lived in Washington if you really want to powder coat please feel free to let me know I will help any way I can Steve-stabgnid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kudu 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 Lighter works. Dip into paint. Works fine. Dont leave it under flame long as lead will melt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hazathor 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 I've had trouble with lighters darkening the powder coat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deaddrifter 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 Agree heat gun would probably work better but I don't do much powder coating so use what I have! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted January 4, 2018 I've done it with an open flamebut was using an alcohol burnerwhich has less soot than a lighter.Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whatfly 0 Report post Posted January 5, 2018 Powder coat is definitely better than nail polish, and a lighter and hemostats are all one really needs, but baking generates much more consistent and durable heads. Generally much easier to use jig hooks and slotted tungsten beads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Capt Bob LeMay 0 Report post Posted January 5, 2018 I do a lot of powder coating since I fill jig and leadhead orders by the 100's... Matter of fact I'm in the middle of a run now (prepping heads to fill three orders..). Although I'm a production guy - my jigs and leadheads are only done on a small scale... Here the retail catalog for the powders and the jigheads if anyone's interested... http://www.lurepartsonline.com/ At any rate here's how I'm set up... I use a free-standing propane torch (the smaller, fatter gas bottles that are meant for camper's use... ). Initially all l ever used for my powders was the small containers they came in, and used a small dental spatula to keep the powders loose - but then I finally began using an "air pump fluid bed" that consists of an air pump pushing air into the bottom of a PVC cup with powder in it - much better results than simply trying to keep the powder loose with a spatula... The torch is set to a medium to small flame depending on the size of the jig heads being heated - and I use a small pair of locking forceps to hold each head one at a time, by the hook, passing it and turning it just above the flame to heat it evenly. The moment the lead shows the slightest bit of shine (exterior almost at melting point) then the head is stirred through the powder, just lightly then hung on a threaded rod until it cools. I try to set my powder coating up to be able to do as many of one color as possible, then switch to the next color. When I have a run completed (usually around 100 to 200 heads) then they're placed in an oven and baked for 15 minutes at 350 degrees to harden them. See pics below... typical leadheads for plastic or Gulp tails skimmer jigs and heads - for working very shallow areas (bonefish, permit, redfish, etc.) backcountry jigs 1/4 oz. heads... one ounce "pilchard" jigs - oceanside and offshore I do bucktails from 1/8 up to one ounce in size with different shapes for different uses... and leadheads from 1/8 to 1/2oz for plastic or Gulp tails All are powder coated, then baked for hardness... Every tail is finished with super glue on the thread for duarbility - and all are made to order for each customer (size, color, quantity). For anyone wanting to get into the production side of things (wholesale) the two outfits I use the most are as follows: Cast Industries (lead heads, jig heads in bulk to order) castind.com and Component Sytems Inc (paints powders and production tools, air beds, etc. csipaint.com Hope this helps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted January 5, 2018 thanks ive seen the fluid beds but do not want to spend a lot of money for 12-15 jigs i ordered a1 ounce jar of pro-tec powder and will try the lighter method or my gas range as the heat source and 20 jig hooks with a few to practice on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Poopdeck 0 Report post Posted January 5, 2018 Wait!!!!! It's my time to help flytire! I got this Flytire. I've been pouring and painting jig heads my entire life. Finally I get to help! I'm thrilled! The capt. is right on the money. Powder coating is very very simple. Forget the hair dryer. Forget the heat gun. Some will say to preheat them in a toaster oven. Forget that because then you have to handle hot hooks. I use a propane torch but I'll do a few hundred in an hour or two. For the numbers your talking about just light a candle. I'm assuming your coating light jigs, say under a 1/4 oz so it will take nothing more then 8 seconds in the flame. Start at like 5 seconds and dip in the powder. If it comes out grainy and powdery looking it wasn't hot enough. No worries though simply hold the powder coated jig over the flame for a hot second or so and you will see the powder turn to a nice shiny color. On the next jig, hold it for six seconds. If it's shiny and beautiful looking 6 is your count from there on out. If it's still powdery and grainy looking hold it over the flame until it's shiny. Next jig hold till a count of seven until you have the proper count. Once you have the count your set. If the paint is darkening you over heated the jig and are seeing the first stage of burning the paint. If your talking about a fly fishing size jig head you may want to start with a lower count. Or you can simply sacrifice a jig and hold it in the flame and counting till meltdown. Then shave 3 or 4 seconds off that count and work backwards. I like to start at the bottom because you can always help the paint melt by holding over the candle. Burnt paint cant be corrected. At this point powder paint is very brittle and it MUST be cured in the oven or a toaster oven. Different colors have slightly different curing times and temps. Generally 20 to 30 minutes in a 325 or 350 oven will cure the paint to its hardest and most chip resistant. Without curing powder paint is the least durable paint out there. BEFORE CURING CLEAN THE PAINT OUT OF THE HOOK EYE. You will need a drill to clean cured powder paint from the eye. if your jamming the jig head into the powder one tends to put to much paint on the jig. It will look awesome and you will think you did a fantastic job until you pull them out of the curing oven and see all of the extra paint sagged and now you have a rock hard irregular shaped jig head. This can be minimized by keeping the powder super fluffy in the jar by stirring it before jamming the jig into it for a hot second. It can be easily done but it takes a quick efficient dip and swirl in the powder to achieve a super light coating that won't sag during the curing process. The best way to put a thin coat on without clogging the hook eye is with a fluid bed which is what I and most serious jig painters use. With powder paint the thinner the better. It really us a very simple process with or without a fluid bed. By the way a fluid bed can be made with 5 bucks worth of pvc pipe. Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted January 5, 2018 the jigs are 1/32 ounce thanks for all of the tips and tricks. i'll have to sort them all out Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stabgnid 0 Report post Posted January 5, 2018 Flytire 1/32 I heat them with my heat gun about 2-3 seconds on each side before dipping them .. its important to clean eyes out while they are warm wire or a paper clip works well then bake here are some curing temps for different colors , Cure time and Temp for Powder PaintRecommended Cure Times and Temps From CSI (Component Systems Inc.)White*- 25 mins. @ 356FYellow Chartreuse* - 25 mins @ 356FGreen Chartreuse* -25 mins @ 356FBlaze Orange* -25 mins @ 356FBlack*- 25 mins @ 356FHot Pink*- 25 mins @ 356FFlame Red* -25 mins @ 356FWhite Pearl- 15 mins @ 325FClear*- 25 mins @ 356FBright Green*- 25 mins @356FYellow*- 25 mins @ 356FRed- 10 mins @ 400FPurple*- 15 mins @ 356FGlow Overcoat- 15 mins @ 375FBrown* -25 mins @ 356FBlue- 18 mins @ 375FSilver- 15 mins @ 400FGold- 20 mins @ 375FWatermelon Pepper15 mins @ 395FWatermelon 15 mins @ 395FPumpkin Brown 16 mins @ 395FSmoke* 25 mins @ 356FGreen Pumpkin* 25 mins @ 356FDark Watermelon* 25 mins @ 356FJune Bug Flake 15 mins @ 395FRoot Beer Flake 15 mins @ 395FWatermelon Flake 15 mins @ 395FCopperhead 15 mins @ 395FRed Bug 15 mins @ 395FRuby Slipper 15 mins @ 395FBaby Bass Green 15 mins @ 395FDragonfly 15 mins @ 395FPearl Pepper 15 mins @ 395FSapphire Blue 15 mins @ 395FBlack-Blue Flake 15 mins @ 395FGlitter Topcoat Colors* 25 mins @ 356All Standard Glow Colors- 15 min @ 375Transparent Candy Colors* 25 mins @ 356FStandard Glow Colors 15 mins @ 375FSuper Glow Colors* 26 mins @ 356F* These colors may also be cured for 10 mins @ 392F to 400F..............Curing @ higher temperatures increase possibility of excess paint running off, especially in multi-coat applications. I just got this new cure time and temps from Component Systems/CS Coatings Steve-stabgnid Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites