Quill question

[notenuftoys 0]

I bought some Polish quills recently and tonight started experimenting. I first added Loon flow, but it seemed to just soak in and didn't give the look I wanted. So I added Loon thin, but ended up with this:

 

 

Not sure how noticeable it is, but I had a hard time getting the thin resin to smooth out. Is this normal? What's the recommended resin "density" for coating these quills?

 

[chugbug27 0]

I don't coat over the quills, I lay a thread base on the hook, light coat of krazy glue on the thread base, then wrap the quills. Just like for goose biot bodies.

[Dave G. 0]

I soak the thread base with Sally Hansen Hard as Nails and wrap the quill while still wet. I want the natural look of the quill facing out. I tried over coating but don't care for that look generally, and if I do over coat it then again it's with Sally H.

[Flicted 0]

I don't coat the quills normally but when I use resin, I put on a dab and work it smooth with a bodkin. Then add more as needed and be patient. It's easier to add more than to deal with excess resin. Then top coat the resin after it's set so it keeps its shine.

[mikechell 0]

If you put on too thick a coat of UV resin ... it will flow away from the light as you set it. The resin itself prevents the UV light from passing through, so you're only curing the part facing the light. That drives the resin away and once you've completed the rotation, the last of the resin pools up and leaves a "lump."

Thin coat and cure, thin coat and cure ... repeat until desired thickness and look is achieved.

[flytire 0]

Rotate the vise head PRIOR to curing the resin to level it out. Then cure

 

Apply a small drop of resin and spread it out with your bodkin. Then cure

[notenuftoys 0]

If you put on too thick a coat of UV resin ... it will flow away from the light as you set it. The resin itself prevents the UV light from passing through, so you're only curing the part facing the light. That drives the resin away and once you've completed the rotation, the last of the resin pools up and leaves a "lump."

Thin coat and cure, thin coat and cure ... repeat until desired thickness and look is achieved.

 

Thanks. I think using Loon thin is part of the problem. I'll try another one using Loon flow.

[Flicted 0]

Whether you're using thin, thick, or flow, the important thing is what the other Mike said, "Thin coat and cure, thin coat and cure, repeat until desired thickness and look is achieved."

 

 

"Slow down young fella. If you take your time, you'll get a more harmonious outcome." - Crossfire Trail

[flytire 0]

watch how much uv resin is being used on this body (you dont have to use the micro brush thats used in the video. a bodkin is perfectly fine)

 

 

viscosity is irrelevant unless a bulbus body is desired

[mikechell 0]

I made these, partly for fun, partly to see if I could.

Using large amounts of UV, I quickly found that the UV "rolled" as I was curing it with the light.

Not a big problem, but it did leave that distinctive "hump" I wrote about earlier.

[flytire 0]

a little sag in the resin can be an advantage in creating minnow bodies along with layering

[tjm 0]

what's a Polish quill?

[flytire 0]

Stripped peacock herl quill

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=polish+quills&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiU5OyvvpbfAhXkY98KHUbsBtcQ_AUIDygC&biw=1600&bih=758

[notenuftoys 0]

Had some time to play around with these quills again. I tried both chugbug's method, laying down some glue then wrapping the quill, and using Loon flow resin.

 

 

Which is which? Either way, I like how they turned out. I do believe viscosity matters.

[tjm 0]

Thanks flytire, I'm familiar with stripped peacock herl, but, can't make any mental connection with them and Poland, was thinking it might be a peculiar feather from a Polish chicken, a peculiar bird. I sometimes forget how easy internet search can be.