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Head Cement Preferences
Posted 25 February 2007 - 10:39 AM
I've been doing some casual research on how the various master fly tyers approached head cement and the methods they employed to apply it to the fly (ie needle, syringe, brush, etc) I'd like to get your spin on what you prefer as far as the type/brand you use and why and the method you use to apply it to the fly.
Do you use different cements for different flies? Why?
If you make up your own head cement, what formula do you use?
I made this same post in Clark's Bamboo Rod Forum's Classic Fly Tying Section and got some very interesting results.
Posted 25 February 2007 - 11:18 AM
Saltwater flies are a different matter...there was a recent post in here on how to make Flexament from Shoe Goo and I'm looking forward to experimenting with different thicknesses on Clousers and other saltwater flies. I've got a nice little dubbing needle one of my bamboo rod making friends gave me(piece of bamboo rod tip with needle) but I keep my Sally's in one of those jars that has the pull out needle for the times that I use the cement.
Posted 25 February 2007 - 11:59 AM
For saltwater streamers I use Sally Hansen's hard as nails and for freshwater nymphs and dries I'll use anything that will hold the wraps together.
Posted 25 February 2007 - 12:15 PM
Tight Lines Mike
Posted 25 February 2007 - 12:35 PM
I use regular and thickened "Head Cement" and Dave's Flex Cement for the outer layers of coating to get a smoother finish.
Recently I have started using black Pro Lak to coat the heads of my wet flies and streamers. This stuff is wonderful for getting a glossy jet black head on a fly.
If I am looking for a high gloss finish, I will give the head on outer layer of clear Sally Hansen "Hard As Nails" nail polish.
For really durable heads on fishing flies, I mix up a batch of DevCon 5 minute epoxy and coat the thread wraps. The fly needs to be rotated until the head sets up, but it makes a very durable fly.
P.S. - You've got a neat research project. I checked out your website and found the information very useful and well documented. Thanks for sharing.
Ray (letumgo) <°)((((><<
Posted 25 February 2007 - 12:54 PM
Ray (letumgo) <°)((((><<
Posted 25 February 2007 - 01:01 PM
Are you refering to fishing or display flies? For me it makes a difference. I do not use head cement on any of my fishing flies. Agood whip finish will do the job and I have yet to have a fly fall apart. If I use any on a display fly, I tend to use Sally Hansens hard as nails...
Posted 25 February 2007 - 03:12 PM
beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise"
Posted 25 February 2007 - 03:45 PM
"All it takes is one fool to be standing arround doing something, for a bunch of other fools to join in"......a quote from an old Newfoundlander I met fishing in the pooring rain
Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:05 PM
The Pro-Lak out sells all other head cements that i carry in the shop by about a 10 - 1 margin.
Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:14 PM
Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:43 PM
For CS streamers, I've tried lots of things and it looks like 1 coat of the above head cement, then after it really dries (a couple of hours), 3 coats of Sally Hansen Hard-as-Nails, about 45 min to an hour apart, then let the fly sit for 24 hours, or I find it is soft underneath. I use a tiny bodkin made from a medium weight needle stuck in a tiny (3/8" x 1/8" x 2") piece of wood.
Other stuff I use: Dave's Fleximent for adhering CS wings together, and for adhering turkey for hopper wings and nymph wing casings. Use a heavy bodkin. ZapaGap for various construction and coating quill body flies, using a wooden pointy toothpick.
Also, don't buy little jars of head cement thinner- a quart of laquer thinner is about $6 and will last a lifetime. Be careful when transferring it to little jars, as its vapor is explosive, and will seek out a flame many feet away (e.g. furnace, woodstove).
Posted 26 February 2007 - 08:50 AM
Posted 26 February 2007 - 01:13 PM
I don't even use head cement or Sally Hansen's any more unless I'm doing something for display that requires a superlative smooth finish. Hard as Hull is very nice too.