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Fly Tying

mmarkey

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About mmarkey

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 05/19/1946

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  • Location
    Woodstock, GA, USA
  1. Great job to all involved and congratulations to the winners. :thumbup: :thumbup:
  2. Duane great looking fly. My question is does it swim upright or hook up?
  3. Real nice Crawdad fly. One question. Does the fly swim right side up?
  4. I think that I have Griffin Ceramic bobbins. They have a ceramic center for the spool holder and the tube has a small ceramic bead in each end of it. As a matter of fact I have a few different sizes etc. It is easier to have several bobbins loaded with colors of thread that you use frequently than to change them all the time. And most definetly they don't break the thread near as much as the not ceramic bobbins. they are worth the extra $
  5. Put me in the C-clamp camp. I've never used a pedistal on any of the vices i've used and don't feel I'm missing much.
  6. This program don't work on a MAC :wallbash:
  7. I just reread many of the posts in this Poll. I think Danvise should have had a listing in the catagories. I seems that many tiers are using the Danvise.
  8. Is the pattern of our choosing? and when will it be due? I need some answers but I think I'm in.
  9. Swamphunter When you brush your cat and your dog, save the fur you collect. It makes great dubbin.
  10. A new addition to the fly pattern database has been submitted by mmarkey: Olive Soft Hackle
  11. The way I use it is to align it straight of the end off the end of the hook. when I want to use rotary i throw a half hitch of tying thrread onto the hook then extend the bobbin over the bobbin rest. By doing it this way the thread does not wind around the hook or unwind from the hook. As far as having to wind up the bobbin again just adjust the bobbin rest not too far from the end of the hook and you won't have that problem. Another tip. That little spring is for holding material back over the vice body. It doesn't belong on the bobbin rest. Wrap it without stretching it around the vice body where the hole in the arm is and just link it to itself. Then when you have material hanging on the back of the hook shaft just clip it into the spring and it won't get in your way when your using the rotary function.
  12. I do something similar to what JoeBillingsley described. (I thinik) I tie in my herl at the back by the tips then wind it around my tying thread clockwise (forming a rope) till I have a long enough lenth. Then using my rotary function on the vise I hold the thread and herl combo and wrap the thread herl combo to achieve the required wrap. I find that the herl doesn't break near as much and is constantly reinforced through the length of the tie, because of the integrated tying thread. It also keeps the herl fluffy and stops flat spots from forming. No-one showed me this I guess great minds....
  13. I sorry to do this but I'm going to drop out of this swap. Reason being I just ran a swap on another site that only had six tyers and it really makes things too difficult on the meister when your waiting for one or two tyers submissions to complete a too small swap. I think the swap should have been cancelled because of low response. 12 tyers should be a minimum. Any swaps I run in the future will be so. MHO. I wish you the best and perhaps another swap another day.
  14. Alright I'm in. These are Carp flies correct and the number is 12. The fly's called a Woody. It's a pattern I learned years ago, works for anything including Carp!
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