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SilverCreek

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About SilverCreek

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  1. SilverCreek

    What’s cooking

    My brother-in-law, John is a retired professional baker and he ran the largest commercial bakery on the East Coast which baked all the Langendorf and Entenmann's baked goods for New York City. I gave him a copy of the original No-Knead-Bread recipe developed by Jim Lahey of the Sullivan Street Bakery in NYC which was first appeared in the New York Times. He called it the best home-made bread recipe he had ever tried. Original No-Knead Bread recipe. https://bittmanproject.com/recipe/no-knead-bread/ There are now many versions of it including faster wait times but the original is the one we still use. Here are the 3 versions all published by the NYT over the years Recipe: Original No-Knead Bread Adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery Time: About 1 1/2 hours plus 14 to 20 hours’ rising 3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, more for dusting 1/4 teaspoon instant yeast 1 1/4 teaspoons salt Cornmeal or wheat bran as needed. 1. In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees. 2. Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes. 3. Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger. 4. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack. Yield: One 1 1/2 pound loaf. Speedy No-Knead Bread Time: About 1 hour, plus 4 1/2 hours’ resting 3 cups bread flour 1 packet ( 1/4 ounce) instant yeast 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Oil as needed. 1. Combine flour, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Add 1 1/2 cups water and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest about 4 hours at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees. 2. Lightly oil a work surface and place dough on it; fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest 30 minutes more. 3. At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8- quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under dough and put it into pot, seam side up. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. 4. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned. Cool on a rack. Yield: 1 big loaf. Fast No-Knead Whole Wheat Bread Time: About 1 hour, plus 5 hours’ resting (October 8, 2008) 2 cups whole wheat flour 1/2 cup whole rye flour 1/2 cup coarse cornmeal 1 teaspoon instant yeast 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Oil as needed. 1. Combine flours, cornmeal, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Add 1 1/2 cups water and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest about 4 hours at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees. 2. Oil a standard loaf pan (8 or 9 inches by 4 inches; nonstick works well). Lightly oil your hands and shape dough into a rough rectangle. Put it in pan, pressing it out to the edges. Brush top with a little more oil. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest 1 hour more. 3. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake bread about 45 minutes, or until loaf reaches an internal temperature of 210 degrees. Remove bread from pan and cool on a rack. Yield: 1 loaf.
  2. You can go to my post on this link: https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/selecting-deer-or-elk-hair-for-comparaduns.251936/
  3. Did you not write in your OP: "Criticism welcome" I did post how to purchase good deer and elk hair; but I deleted it since you are apparently not interested, and I seem to have wasted my time.
  4. I've tried and failed! It is one of the those flies I cannot master.
  5. After tying a no hackle dry fly, try casting it. I bet it it will spin and twist your tippet. The wings are have to be perfect and I mean PERFECT for the fly to be aerodynamically stable when cast. First of all, the fly should be tied using MATCHING right and left wings taken from the SAME goose. Then you need matching feathers taken from the identical location from those L and R wings. Then you need to cut the flies wing slips from the identical matching spot from those two matching wings and you better hope they match. Then you need to mount them on the correct side of the fly, each one at the same slant to the rear, the same tilt to the side and the same same length. Any slight variation and the fly will spin. So using matching wings and feather slips gives the tier the best chance of success. In my opinion, a no hackle dry fly one of the most difficult dry flies to tie and you won't know if it is tied right until you cast it. It can look good and still spin. I bet there are very few members that even have matching wings that are identified as taken from the same goose. I have hunters save them in separate bags but I haven't seen fly shops sell matching goose wing feathers that way.
  6. Did you use a hair stacker? If not, get a hair stacker to line up the ends of the elk hair and then measure the lined up hair against the fly and tie it in so it needs no trimming. Hair stackers come in various sizes so buy 3 sizes of them to cover tiny flies, medium sized flies and large flies. I wrote about tying elk hair caddis adn buying the correct hair for the fly on this post on another site. Copy and paste into your browser and go down to my post. https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/tips-for-tying-the-elk-hair-caddis.906270/#post-1578963
  7. If you think barbless hooks kill SIGNIFICANTLY fewer trout so that it affects the trout population, please provide the studies. Copy and paste the links below into your browser. On the contrary, the best summary of published and peer reviewed fisheries studies shows no population effects. Barbed flies have effect on trout populations. Here is the best scientific study of barbed vs barbless hooks. See pg. 72 of the Wild Trout VI Symposium. Needless to say, only the most rigorously peer reviewed and important articles are choses for the Wild Trout Symposium. TU, The Trout and Salmon Foundation, FFF, Atlantic Salmon foundation as well as the EPA support the Wild Trout Symposium. Yet the facts continue to be ignored. http://www.wildtroutsymposium.com/proceedings-6.pdf Here is the full article from the Idaho Fisheries Dept: https://collaboration.idfg.idaho.gov/FisheriesTechnicalReports/Res-Schill1997%20Barbed%20Hook%20Restrictions%20in%20Catch-and-Release%20Trout%20Fisheries--A%20Social%20Issue.pdf https://afspubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1577/1548-8675(1997)017<0873%3ABHRICA>2.3.CO%3B2 "For flies and lures combined, mean hooking mortality was 4.5% for barbed hooks and 4.2% for barbless hooks. Combination of test statistics from individual studies by gear type via meta-analysis yielded nonsignificant results for barbed versus barbless flies, lures, or flies and lures combined. We conclude that the use of barbed or barbless flies or lures plays no role in subsequent mortality of trout caught and released by anglers. Because natural mortality rates for wild trout in streams commonly range from 30% to 65% annually, a 0.3% mean difference in hooking mortality for the two hook types is irrelevant at the population level, even when fish are subjected to repeated capture." Studies in an ocean fishery showed the same result. http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1577/1548-8675(2002)022<0229:POBABH>2.0.CO;2 "In this fishery, barbless hooks probably did not reduce hooking mortality and conferred only slight benefits at the expense of reduced catches." Studies using barbed and barbless lures (Mepps Spinners) showed no "biological advantage with the use of single- or barbless-hook spinners when caught wild stream trout will be released." https://afspubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1577/M02-171.1 However, studies on the capture efficiency of barbed vs barbless artificial flies shows that barbless flies show anglers using barbed flies land 76% of hooked fish = 13% more fish than anglers using barbless flies = 63% landed. So barbed flies land 20.6% (13/63)more fish than barbless flies. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02755947.2013.769920#.UaoBX-CkMrg
  8. I read that also. He will be missed.
  9. No one has mentioned the McMurray ant by Ed Sutryn. I have found that this pattern will take trout when they are refusing other ant patterns. The original uses a balsa wood body segments glued onto mono and then painted. https://www.flydreamers.com/en/fly-tying/mc-murray-ant-vl233 Here are the instructions per Jack Tucker of Flyfish@ which was published on the Virtual Flybox. There are two more modern adaptations that work equally well. The first uses foam cylinders cut to size for the body segments and then threaded on mono alternating the short and long body segments. Then glue the body segments into place. Cut the mono later to form the individual bodies. They are really fussy to make and I have my own easier version. All that is needed are foam cylinders of the correct diameter. I make my own using a cork borer, but you can buy foam ant bodies. A cork borer is a set of nested hollow tubes that are used to bore holes in cork or rubber stoppers that are used in chemistry labs for flasks. You can get a used set on the auction site. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264458280950?_ I make my bodies and the string them on a piece of mono and glue them into place. After the glue has dried, cut off the ant bodies and tie the fly. You can make flying ant patterns by tying in a bit of crystal flash as the wings. If you want to coat the foam, they can be painted with liquid latex (Rub-R-Mold) which can be bought at hobby stores. If you are going to paint the foam, you can cut rectangular strips of foam from a foam sheet and then use the rectangular pieces cut to size. The latex paint will smooth over the edges. If you can't decide when to use a red ant or a black ant, make up some McMurray ants with a red thorax and a black body. They work. Here is a black ant I tied using one of my home made cork borer bodies. The second adaptation uses dimensional fabric paint. The paint is applied to thread to form the body segments. Since it is dimensional paint it will form a smooth shiny body on the thread. There is no need to paint since the bodies are paint. Different colors can be used from black to brown to cinnamon red. After the paint dries, cut off the individual bodies with the thread connectors and tie the flies. Either of these two methods make wonderful ants and they are much easier than the original McMurray balsa wood bodies. The dimensional paint can even form the realistic natural tapering of the ant body. I also make Harrison Steeve’s Attract Ants and Transpar Ants http://www.oocities.org/gold_trout/articles/TransparANT.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sK6P02Dc5pc This is my ant box.
  10. 1. The hook gap is pretty narrow/ So if you are getting hits but no hookups, use a 2X short hook. It will have a wider hook gap for teh shank length. 2. The hackle is too long. Trim the hackle to proper size on some of the flies and see if there is a difference in the number hits you get. 3. Fish them close to the banks and under overhanging grass and trees. Fish them after right after a thunderstorm. They get washed into the stream
  11. His robot. https://youtu.be/5_jp9CwJhcA?si=azEfcscHB7Oz-rAx&t=275
  12. Second reason for auto shut off is to reduce greenhouse gas emissions to reduce global warming.
  13. I thought there was a work around for posting videos but I can't find it. There used to be a method as this old thread shows https://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/80414-embedding-videos/&tab=comments#comment-616671
  14. There is no need to use wax or waxed thread. The best fly tyer I have ever met is Royce Damm. He won the 1994 Buzz Busek award from the FFI; https://www.flyfishersinternational.org/Portals/0/FlyTyingGroup/FTGDocuments/Buszek/1994_RoyceDam.pdf I wrote about his method of dubbing here: https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/sticky-wax-question.917045/#post-1672183
  15. It might have a special name but I think it is a bead head wooly bugger variant. Maybe someone will recognize it and give you a specific name.
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