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LeakyWaders

Copic Marker system - Clear coats

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I'm curious what you guys who are using the copic airbrush system are using to clear coat your poppers. I don't have a dryer system for epoxy coatings, so I don't believe that is much of an option. Is there something else you guys would recommend, or should I just suck it up and get a stupid dryer?

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If you use the faster drying epoxy you could do it just by rotating it in the vice for a few minutes by hand. I still do it that way a bunch even though I do have a dryer. Or you could coat with Sally.

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That's probably the route I'll go. The SH, at least on the hard foam poppers, tends to peel the paint pretty badly. Not too sure why that is, but it happens.

 

 

 

Anyone ever used a product called SunCure? Seems like it is just a cheap replacement for CCG, but I don't know if it will yellow or anything. It's UV Curing, so that might be an even better option than regular epoxy.

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As a rule the fast dry(5 minute) epoxies quickly turn yellow and crack.

 

Some clear coats make ink run. Hopefully someone familiar with clear coating

Copic painted poppers will have a good recommendation for you.

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Leaky, you don't need a mechanized turner. See my video, in the beginning of it, I go over two methods I used for 20+ years before finally going mechanical. Do not use 5 minute as a topcoat, it will yellow. For the actual epoxying, see my youtube channel that I have a link in my signature box below the video.

 

Kirk

 

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I use Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish on mine. It doesn't dissolve the alcohol based COPIC ink and dries quick and glossy.

 

polycrylic-protective-wood-finish_125x12

 

My Firetigers:

 

firetigers.jpg

 

iaflyfisher

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Yeah that 5 minute stuff does that but typically I have either lost or wore out the fly before it happens.

 

The best thing I have found is automotive clear. But most are not setup for that. If you spray it right it won't run anything. It's expensive to get started but is the best coating available.

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ia, that looks like a good idea. Those firetigers look good too, did you cut your own mask for the black stripes?

 

flysmallie, I've seen that automotive stuff on-line and it sounds like a really good finish; I've wanted to try it but can't make the investment right now. I wondered if it could be brushed on.

 

Kirk

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Kirk Dietrich" data-cid="551127" data-time="1368337725"><p>

flysmallie, I've seen that automotive stuff on-line and it sounds like a really good finish; I've wanted to try it but can't make the investment right now. I wondered if it could be brushed on.<br />

<br />

Kirk</p></blockquote>

 

Well you can walk out to your car and tell it gives you a really nice durable finish. But it has to be sprayed. A cheap airbrush does the trick.

 

You also need to spray in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator. The isocynates in the activator are nasty.

 

It seems like a lot just to clear some poppers but its really not. Little expense to get started but it gives you such a nice coating with very little effort.

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I'm painting hard foam poppers with a Copic marking system and have tried UV coatings, Loon Hard Head Pearlescent, Softex, sally , and now Minwax polycrylic Protective coating, and the copic paint is still dissolving. Any other alternatives out there?

 

 

New Member

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I'm painting hard foam poppers with a Copic marking system and have tried UV coatings, Loon Hard Head Pearlescent, Softex, sally , and now Minwax polycrylic Protective coating, and the copic paint is still dissolving. Any other alternatives out there?

 

 

New Member

 

Watch the second of Kirk Dietrich's videos. Part one of two is posted above.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-Goym5OQdg

 

Kirk uses 30 minute epoxy and his videos show an inexpensive way to deal with curing epoxy evenly without buying a turning wheel.

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