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Experimenting with epoxy
Posted 17 November 2003 - 03:14 PM
I have made myself a homemade drying wheel. Now, in the past I hadn't used enough epoxy to warrant having a drying motor, but it will be my next purchase. However, I found myself trying to figure out a way to dry my poppers and prevent any drips or sagging. After a little thought, it hit me. I cut out a 12" circle from a cardboard box I had lying around. I poked a hole in the center of it and through the hole, I inserted a small wooden dowel(app. 15" long). After applying the epoxy to my poppers, I stuck the hooks in the edge of the cardboard. I then turned the wheel slowly, but evenly, by hand. After about 6 minutes, the epoxy was dry enough to be set aside and allowed to cure on its own. This served as a practical drying wheel, and I must confess, I was a bit suprised by my ingenuity. Turning the wheel evenly and keeping it vertically straight required a careful eye and a little patience, but the flies dried perfectly. So, for those of you who are considering experimenting with epoxy, but don't want to shell out $$$ for a drying motor, try this method. If you like the results of your epoxy work, do yourself a favor and get a drying motor...I'm going to do just that!!!
I encourage anyone with a preference for epoxy work and drying equipment to jump in and share your advice!!
Posted 17 November 2003 - 03:44 PM
A little goes a long way.....don't sprinkle too much!
Posted 17 November 2003 - 03:45 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 05:32 PM
Am I doing something wrong in mixing or something, how can I get the epoxy to dry solid and not tacky? I mixed it evenly, I made sure that the rpoportion was exactly the same as I was dispensing it.
Posted 17 November 2003 - 05:52 PM
That is my .02 cents worth.
Posted 17 November 2003 - 06:07 PM
Posted 17 November 2003 - 06:22 PM
I know at times humidity will affect the setting, and I've seen a few cases where the epoxy would finally get hard after several days, but would still have a slight tacky feeling. I've only had such problems with the shorter set time epoxies, and have never had that problem with the Devcon 2 Ton. I don't use 5 minute epoxies much, mainly because I'm usually working with a large bunch of flies at one time, but when I do I also make sure I use the Devcon brand.
I have no idea what causes that sticky problem, but I feel it has something to do with the shorter set times, and also feel that some brands are more prone to problems than others.
One other thing you might also try is to add a few drops of ethyl alcohol (camp stove fuel) when you mix. The alcohol will thin the epoxy a little and will aid in getting the 2 parts well mixed. The alcohol will also extend the set time & weaken the mix slightly too, but for tying purposes is not enough to make any difference.
Acetone can also be used for thinning epoxy but the alcohol is a whole lot healthier to work with.
Posted 17 November 2003 - 10:36 PM
The resin is usually the least colored of the two materials. The hardeners contain either/or (and/or) amines and sulfide compounds, which have a tendency to oxidize a bit, with which they yellow. I've never used Permatex, I've usually stuck with Devcon, since that's the cheapest available brand around here. I've had very few problems with the epoxy not curing completely.
Posted 22 November 2003 - 09:38 PM
Another thing to think about..... most epoxies will yellow over time. Some faster and more than others. Just the nature of the beast. The general rule of thumb, the quicker the cure time the more and faster yellowing will set in. On dark background or using as an adhesive it is not a problem. But if you are dead set in having a glossy finish over a dark background, I would look into several of the rod building finishes (permagloss, glasscoat, etc.) that being said, you will NEED a dryer for them, as the curing time is much much longer (like multiple multiple hours). The end result will be a sparkling finish.
Posted 24 November 2003 - 03:14 PM
Posted 24 November 2003 - 03:38 PM
I let all of my epoxy flies dry a minimum of overnight at room temperature (after setting on the drying wheel). The next day, if any of them are in the least bit tacky, I apply a thin layer of Hard as Nails. This seals the deal nicely, and also adds extra durability and gloss.
Works for me.
Posted 24 November 2003 - 03:41 PM
Posted 28 November 2003 - 02:38 PM
I shall write a primer on Epoxy, its uses, features and drawbacks. Until then, work with these several pieces of info.
Five Minute epoxy:
tends to go bad even if unopened.
may not mix evenly EVEN IF one proportions correctly, due to short work time and user's rush to mix.
may not always 'kick' - as some of you have discovered; attributable to age, conditions, etc.
is not waterproof.
will yellow and deteriorate if not coated with a longer setting type of coating, or a lacquer-based hard finish (Sally Hansen, etc.)
'Two Ton', or 'Extended Time' epoxy
requires attention to cure time when used in fly manufacturing. Will sag and droop until it 'kicks' if left in one position.
IS waterproof, in most cases.
Can and should be used to coat Five minute epoxy fly bodies - see above.
Neither is GOOD for coating rods. Both are EFFECTIVE in building rods, dependent on application.
For those who wish to use a fairly inexpensive rotary motor - get a rotisserie motor; make a square shaft to fit the chuck; mount a piece of your favorite whatever on the shaft; plug motor in; turn epoxy bodied flies.
All for now. Stay tuned.
Posted 28 November 2003 - 02:40 PM
Posted 29 November 2003 - 01:40 AM
One quick hint...if you are shopping for epoxy (and buying the stuff in the clear plastic tubes) if the hardener looks real yellow to you, give it a pass. The stuff has been on the rack too long and the amines/sulfides in the hardener have oxidized making it yellow...means even if you mix it 1:1 it may not cure properly (besides being too yellow from the start).