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Jim P

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About Jim P

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    Beginner

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    Bass
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  1. Jim P

    Podcasts

    Orvis FFG is my fav also. You would think since its from Orvis it would be a one hour commercial. It is anything but, just good diverse information on all kinds of fly fishing and tips. Good find!
  2. Great bit of fishing history. Thanks for posting it.
  3. Sounds like you are making poppers. I make a few myselfI can pass along what has worked for me in the past. I have found it best to give the foam a coat or two of clear to firm and level the surface and then paint the desired colors followed up with more clear coats to get the level of gloss that suits you. Any of the acrylic airbrush paints or inks will do the work or coloring for you. (Createx or Wicked) You will probably need to thin them down to about a milk-like viscosity. For clear coat CSI Seal Coat is water based and dries quick. (There are others as well) All of the lure component catalogs have it. You may need a turner to prevent dripping. Consider just brushing the clear coat it dries very quick and is hard to get your air brush completely clean without a complete tear down. Have Fun!
  4. I used FTD products all the time along with Gorilla Glue "Clear" with out any problems. Give it a try. Also from the big box craft store any of the fabric fusion type glues will work.
  5. SoCal: Lots of finishes will make the Copic colors run, I use a mix of Copic and Createx Acrylic paints. You can usually solve the run problem with a mist of the acrylic fixers that you can get from the craft stores. Just a mist and a second mist after the first on dries. (they dry very quick) If you over apply the fixer it will cause the comic colors to run also. Look at CSI "Seal Coat"for the top coat. It"s a water based urethane that is available in various sized containers from most of the big tackle mail-order outfits. I thin it down a bit with water and dip the heads, then rotate. A couple of coats are required however its dry to touch in an hour when applied per directions. (No odor and water cleanup) You can use most of the epoxy finishes without intermediate acrylic coat if you don't mind the two part mix and long set time. As Mike said the UV is an option, most have a bad vapor that hangs in the shop for days that I dislike and since its UV you can't work with it outdoors during daylight hours. I have also some experience with the Zinsser primer in the spray can and it applies much too heavy. You will probably have better luck with a can Zinsser BIN (Same product I think) and you can thin with DNA to something about the consistency of milk. Dip and rotate, Covers great and dries quick. With Zinsser BIN and SealCoat you can prime, paint and top coat in one day easy.
  6. Jim P

    Super Slow board

    Working fine here. 3:20 PM US eastern time
  7. Jim P

    Foam Beetle

    Good tie, easy and durable. Thanks!
  8. "Refuse to choose" Both flies are killers, a selection of colors and sizes of just these two flies and you could catch most fish in most places.
  9. FTD is a great place to get any dubbing or synthetic hair or other items from his expanding selection of fly tying materials. I have always received my orders quickly and correctly. Prices are the best in the business. There are several boxed selections that would be an excellent introduction to the various product lines. ( No connection just a satisfied customer)
  10. Thanks Gene for the input, Denduke's foam is a bit thicker than most of the "flip flop" foam we all have access to. He seems to be making some big poppers there. Just curious about the source. Thanks,
  11. Good looking poppers and thanks for the tips. Can you tell me more about the foam you are using? I switched from saddle hackles to synthetic mixed dubbing last year and have found the synthetic materials are much more durable.
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