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Green Drake Quigley SBS for Scarface Z


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Crackaig

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 02:32 PM

As promised t'other day, a set of step by step instructions for the fly I tied in response to Scarface Z's post "Help reconstruct a lucky fly"

This fly...

16_zpsuuhkxkkl.jpg

 

First I am only working from the photo supplied. If anyone knows this pattern please post, If I am treading on anyone's toes then I apologise now.

 

First let me say I have never seen a hatch of Green Drakes, we don't have them here. I may be tying this too small, you should tie it on an appropriate size hook, However, I'm tying it on a size 12 light wire long shank. It is a size I would use here in a Mayfly hatch. the nearest thing we have.

 

Thread: Olive UTC 70

Tail: 2 Partridge after shaft (Filoplume) feather (Most game birds have these, partridge was to hand).

Rib: Hackle stem (or you could use a dark strand of moose mane)

Body: Yellow olive beaver dubbing (use any dull fine dubbing in the right colour).

Thorax cover: Grey Flexi-body.

Thorax: 2 Wound after shaft feathers.

Wings: Grizzle hackle points, tied to either side.

Hackle: Dry fly quality cock hackle, Cream.

Wing: Yellow dyed deer hair. (Dyed over natural, not over white belly hair).

 

You will need to get some after shaft or "filoplume" feathers. You will find them behind the feathers on game birds. The colder the climate the bird comes from the better the feathers will be. These are not feathers for flying but for keeping the bird warm. Here is a partridge feather with the after shaft feather still attached.

2_zpsmxnrtkq3.jpg

 

You will need at least 4 of these feathers. Take two and ftroke the tips forward and the rest of the fibres back so you can get at the stem near the point.

3_zpsocqqxyfj.jpg

 

Cut through the stems at the exposed point. Then stroke the next few fibres, that are behind the cut you just made, forward.

4_zpswqw8q21r.jpg

 

Then place them together so that they curve apart. Start your thread, a good two eye widths back from the eye, run down the shaft in neat touching turns. Opposite the barb tie in the two feathers to make the tail. Just two turns is all you will need for now.

5_zps09zt5qfm.jpg

 

Then tie in either a hackle stem or a dark strand of moose mane, under the hook shank at the same point as you tied in the tails,

6_zpspt1xb3rs.jpg

 

Apply a fine dull dubbing in a tight thin noodle around the thread. Wind up the hook shank to just past half way (Securing the hackle stem and tail as you go). Trim up any excess.

7_zpsamuf420i.jpg

 

Wind the rib in nice even turns over the body, Tie in at the eye end, and trim off the excess.

8_zpstlpfzf7y.jpg

 

Tie in a strip of Flexi-body or any material you have that you would make a scud back from. On top of this tie in the tips of your other two after shaft feathers. If you are making a larger fly you will need to use more.

9_zps2dppvxqc.jpg

 

Attach your hackle pliers and wrap the after shaft feathers over the thorax. Do not go beyond the start point of your thread. Tie off and trim out any excess. As you wind carefully and gently draw the fibres back from the stems of the feathers. This takes a deft touch.

10_zpsz813gxn1.jpg

 

Stroke all the fibres down, you will find them quite compliant. Then stretch the thorax cover over and tie in. Trim off the excess. Catch in two grizzle hackle points, one to either side of the thorax.

12_zps1l1urauj.jpg

 

Take a bunch of deer hair dyed yellow over natural and tie in with the butts over the eye. Trim the butts square. The points want to be about 2/3rds of the shank length long.

13_zpszxzcskqb.jpg

 

Pull the tips of the deer hair forward over the butts and secure in place.

14_zpsaeifwiss.jpg

 

In the space between the thorax and this wing tie in a prepared dry fly quality cock hackle.

17_zpsrra4srpt.jpg

 

Wind the hackle forward. Tie off, and trim the excess. Drop a whip finish in behind the wing and you're done.

 

16_zpsuuhkxkkl.jpg

 

 

 

There you have it. If you have any problems following, or any other questions, please ask.

 

Cheers,

C.


"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical
minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which
holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd
by the clean end"


#2 Rocco

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 03:48 PM

Great job!  You have nailed it dead-on. 

 

Rocco



#3 Flat Rock native

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 05:39 PM

It is a pictorial tour de force.... Thank you...  C.  Major cheers across to you!


Kenduardo's Lure & Fly

Buffalo, Wyoming

Happily living in "Longmire's" county

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#4 SilverCreek

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 11:20 AM

You are a great resource on this BB. Kudos to you.


Regards,

Silver

"Discovery consists of seeing what everybody has seen and thinking what nobody has thought"..........Szent-Gyorgy

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#5 Grape

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Posted 05 March 2017 - 10:31 PM

All I can say is ... WOW!

#6 Hatchet Jack

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 10:44 AM

This pattern looks killer.

 

The filoplumes are like minature maribou & when soggy, breathe & move at the slightest.

I'm going to tie a few of these & try them out.

Maybe treat the body with Xink, and the hackle & deer hair with Watershed?

 

Over the top there, Crackaig, nicely done.


Always quit when you're through.


#7 Crackaig

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 12:48 PM

Thanks gents, this time I had a better than usual example of the fly to back engineer. On one occasion I was given a salmon fly hook with just a little thread on it to go on, on another a very out of focus camera phone photo; that turned into a saga. This one was easy by comparison.

 

Cheers,

C.


"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical
minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which
holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd
by the clean end"