Jump to content

 Welcome to FlyTyingForum.com

FlyTyingForum.com is the largest fly tying community in the world and we hope you take a moment to register for a free account and join this amazingly friendly and helpful group of anglers. FTF has over 12,000 registered members that have made over 300,000 posts and have uploaded over 6,000 patterns to our exclusive fly pattern database!

If you are an experienced fly tier or just starting out FTF is the perfect place to call home. Click Here To Register for a Free Account

Fly Pattern Database / Browse by Topics / Browse by Material / Fly Tying Bench Database / Fly Fishing & Tying Videos / FTFCurrent(NEW!)
Featured Products: Fly Tying Hooks / Fly Tying Scissors / Waterproof Fly Boxes

A couple of tool ideas that might help

  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 andresere


    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 30 posts

Posted 05 November 2017 - 01:03 PM

These are a couple of things that I have done with tools that have helped me out. Hopefully I can explain the picture well enough. The first thing, I find it much easier to have a flat white background on the surface of the tying table. it gives you contrast and your light reflects of off it and brightens the back side of the fly as well. I bought one of the wood 'benches' and I used it a lot, but not very many of them have a light colored background. The local hobby shop sells foam core poster board in various sizes, and it is cheap enough that once it gets too dirty it is very cheap to replace it (after you have flipped it over). You basically get two surfaces with one purchase.


 A hair stacker back when I started was a significant amount of money, money that could be used for other materials. So I used the tube that chapstick comes in. The key to that is find one that has a squared off head. These can be found at the local dollar store. It doesn't look that big next to the aluminum one in the picture, but it will actually hold more hair than the $20 one. Once you have it gutted, clean it well and run a dryer sheet through it to remove the static electricity. The dryer sheet trick works on any hair stacker as well. Much easier to get the hair out of it doesn't have cling.


 A very stiff toothbrush works for a dubbing brush, and it also works well to prep Coastal deer hair for Comparadun patterns. It is much finer than a typical hair comb. Use the side of it, not all of it - if that makes sense.


 The long green tube laying crossways is RC model airplane engine fuel line. If you buy a foot of it, you can use it as a covering on slick tools like the pliers and the whip finisher shown here. They are much easier to hold on to. Cut in shorter pieces, it slides over scissor tips to protect them when you put them away or transport them. Also keeps you from stabbing yourself with them when you reach into a box or bag.

Flat jawed pliers to squish barbs down are very handy. Remember to always do this first - sometimes it can break the hook and it really sucks if you've already tied the fly.


 The whip finisher with the hippy colored handle was the first one that I ever had. i liked working with it, but the handle part was very narrow and it was hard to hold on to. I used a Bic pen that had that woven cover on it and it slipped over the handle and it fit. I still use it today.


 Hope someone gets some ideas and it helps out.


Attached Files

#2 Guest_rich mc_*

Guest_rich mc_*
  • Guests

Posted 05 November 2017 - 11:13 PM

i do alot of furling  so i made a furling tool. its just a pencil diameter dowel rod with an alligator clip on the end    spins real easy between my thumb and forefinger.. i also just did the velcro tab  trick on a toothbrush, it has the  brush on one side and velcro on the opposite. great tool    rich

#3 Rocco


    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,106 posts

Posted 06 November 2017 - 08:27 AM

I use a magnetic sheet fro a craft store with a non glare yellow plastic surface under my vise to keep metal objects from going into space and absorbing some of the bright overhead light.


You can also use shrink tubing on tools to get a better grip.



#4 flytire


    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 11,364 posts

Posted 09 November 2017 - 06:28 AM

I tie a lot of streamer style fly patterns that require hackle feather fibers for tails and throats and may or may not use up the entire feather in 1 tying session.
Rather than stuffing the individual feather back into it original zip lock bag, I simply gather them and use an electrical test clip to hold them together for future tying sessions.

The fish care less than we do!

#5 islander727


    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 972 posts

Posted 09 November 2017 - 10:46 AM

Forgot the name of a local captain that came up with an idea for a chenille bobbin made from a squeeze bottle and a foam ear plug.


Bottles can be found in craft stores. If you're a working stiff, ear plugs are very easy to come by!


Attached File  20171109_103957_HDR.jpg   229.6KB   5 downloads


#6 Mike West

Mike West

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,511 posts

Posted 09 November 2017 - 11:06 AM

Forgot the name of a local captain that came up with an idea for a chenille bobbin made from a squeeze bottle and a foam ear plug.
Bottles can be found in craft stores. If you're a working stiff, ear plugs are very easy to come by!

Thats a slick idea. I take it the foam ear plug supplies the friction?

#7 mikechell



  • Super Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 14,745 posts

Posted 09 November 2017 - 01:03 PM

Islander, do you use that foam and bottle chenille dispenser?  Seems like the ear plug would get pulled up into the nozzle until it would be too tight to pull chenille out.  Do you have that problem?  


I like the idea, as Mike West says, it's pretty slick.  I just have a concern about that plug.

Barbed hooks rule!
My definition of work: Doing something in which effort exceeds gain.
Ex-Marine ... quondam fidelis