vicrider 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 I use a fair amount of lead on hooks and in many cases prefer it to beads on some patterns. I see so many videos of guys tying lead on the bare hook and I know this is the accepted method but I much prefer to lay my solid base of thread from eye to end of tie, then wind my lead on over the thread base. Doing it this way you only need to hold lead in place for one or two wraps and then you kind wind it on without it spinning on hook and staying exactly where you place it. This has worked for me for a long time and is my preferred way to handle leaded hook patterns. Anyone else do it this way or am I offering you a new idea that I think you'll like if you try it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fisherboy0301 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 I like it this way too. One thing though. Bead head nymphs often call for a few wraps of lead to be pushed up into the bead. That is almost impossible with a thread base. But other than that I prefer a bare shank. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 I wrap on a bare hook with no problems at all. no thread base, no glue etc required + it never spins on the shankI insert the end of the lead wire into the hook eye and wrap toward the bend to the length I want. The ill pick out the wire from the eye of the hook and trim or wrap it forward. I'll make a thread damn in front and back of the wire and a few wraps over the wire to keep it located on the hook shank.Pretty simple Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 Most of the time I like a thread base and a layer of thin CA or varnish over the lead to make base that bit more fish proof. I've started using thin varnish at more points during tying recently to see if the flies survive more fish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mvendon 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 I use a sparse thread base and start wrapping the lead from back to front securing the lead with a few wraps of thread before winding on streamers. I use square lead just on the sides for nymphs. After doing either/or, I wrap thread over them and then give them a coat of SHHAN since I heard that lead will change the color of the dubbing or whatever after a while when fishing if you don't. I'm not even sure if that's true or not, but have been doing it that way all along. Regards, Mark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 All in all its really up to the individual tyers preference There's really no right or wrong way I've heard of the colour change but nobody can provide factual evidence that it occurs. Until that happens it's just hearsay and not enough to change my fly tying. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crackaig 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 With wire I tend towards Flytier's method. When using it you will want to build "ramps" of thread at either end. If you pass over the lead in open turns once then build the ramp at the bend end first, return in open turns and build the ramp at the eye end, the lead will not move. If you try to do the eye end first it will push the lead along the hook shank. For more of my weighted flies I use lead foil. Mostly self adhesive, though I don't know why it needs be self adhesive. I have searched for lead foil without the adhesive, but have not found it available in small enough quantities to make it practical. It is easy to get several meters square, but I want it for a few flies not as a carpet. If I am winding it then again I wind over a bare hook shank. However if I am building a profile with longitudinal strips then I start with thread. This is where self adhesion helps, but not in the way you might think. I put the lead's adhesive side outwards. That means the thread sticks to it. Making it easier to run over it without the thread slipping. (The adhesive will slip over a bare hook shank or one with a thread base). Another thing when building a profiled under body put the shortest pieces on first, followed by the longer ones. The lead will smooth it's self out, requiring less thread or floss to smooth it out. The way to get the end of your strip to end square around the hook shank is to cut it across the "pitch angle" at 90 degrees to the hook shank. The pitch angle is the angle you wind the strip at so that it doesn't overlap itself. Finally the best way to prepare your lead strip is with a steel rule and a craft knife (NOT a scalpel). Score the lead while on the backing paper. Work lengthways rather than widthways, and you will create less waste from your sheet of lead foil. You can prepare whole sheets this way ready for tying later. Cheers, C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
williamhj 0 Report post Posted September 1, 2014 Never had an issue wrapping on a bare shank just holding it still with my finger. I prefer it since it lets me easily push the wraps together tightly when I'm done. Can be done with a thread base but may not slide as easily on the shank. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Gallop 0 Report post Posted September 2, 2014 Color change depends on the material and floss is the worse, but thread will too. I always wrap a foundation of white thread under floss so the darker color doesn't bleed through when wet. As for threading the hook before wrapping lead... As Flytire said. there is no right or wrong way, but I do it. I also add cement before and after wrapping lead. I have no problem sliding lead or even packing hair on a properly threaded hook. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Piker20 0 Report post Posted September 3, 2014 Meter square lead foil tiles? Bet that flags up on a watch list somewhere. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
#1 Troutfisherman 0 Report post Posted September 14, 2014 I wrap lead on and use a little uv resin on it and it doesn't move then ….. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SilverCreek 0 Report post Posted September 14, 2014 With wire I tend towards Flytier's method. When using it you will want to build "ramps" of thread at either end. Cheers, C. "Ramps" smooth the transition from hook shank to the lead edge. Instead, I pinch the end of lead wire with a hemostat before wrapping. When you start winding with a flattened lead rather than a round lead. You will find that there is a smooth gradual bevel on the end and not an abrupt edge to the lead. Crimp the other end before wrapping and both ends will be beveled. Then overwrap with thread to hold it in place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bighornbuster 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2014 Flytire: Is that thread damn a verb or a noun? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2014 whatever you want it to be spelling & grammar not subject to debate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Capt Bob LeMay 0 Report post Posted September 26, 2014 I've never liked wrapping lead wire around a hook to weight a fly. My preference has always been to use square lead wire (if I can find it) that is .040 in diameter. I cut a piece of it using nippers so that there's a taper at each end then place it along the shank and wrap it in place the way you would if you wanted to add a keel to the hook. If I need additional weight I'll do a second or third piece (each slightly shorter than the first piece to build up that "keel" effect. Here's a pic of a finished Big Eye Bendback that got that treatment.... there's a half inch of that lead wire underneath the 1/0 hook. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites