sirrom

Recieved my package in the mail today. Thanks to all participants and the Swapmeister for a job well done. Chuck

Stony, Ah, the joys of being retired. Chuck

On their way via the USPS. Chuck

My vote is for tying 9. Chuck

I whip finish by hand. for me, it's quick, efficient, and the way I learned to finish a fly over 40 years ago. I have a Materelli and every time I go to use it I have to sit for 5 minutes to remember how or look up the instructions. Besides I'm too old to change my ways.

Please include me for a Yellow Stimulator. BTW born and raised just outside New Castle, Pa. Chuck

Start out with 1 part Shoe-Goo to 2 parts Toluene. Adjust consistency from there. I use Glass jars used for airbrushes. Badger is the brand I believe. I have 3 jars on my tying bench, each at a different consistency. I use a pipette to add solvent to mixtures to thin. Hope this helps. BTW I have been using this mixture ever since I saw it in one of George Harvey's books. Several years now. This stuff really sticks! Use the thin mixture as head cement. (it penetrates) Run a bit of medium consistency on your tying thread and then add dubbing. Place some in the cut off ends of deer hair etc. then tie down and it's almost impossible to pull the hair out. Chuck

Check www.feather-craft.com Page 46 of their current catalog.

Exerpt from George Harvey's book "George Harvey: Memories, Patterns and Tactics" Harvey's Night Fly "I've tried several variations of the Night Fly-with and without tails and with different colors of palmered hackle. Some flies have "kickers" fore and aft, with the aft kickers smaller than the fore kickers. I don't think the variations make any difference as long as the wings are mounted correctly and the body is heavy. I don't weight the body. I just fish it until it gets wet enough to sink. If it doesn'tsink quickly enough, I hold it under water until it gets soaked through. If I know where there is a big fish, I use big flies. If not , I use smaller sizes. Make sure you tie the cupped side of the kickers toward the eye of the hook, so you achieve maximum "pusher" effect. To enhance this effect, build the body up heavily towards the eye, and then end the body abruptly. That way the body will brace the wings in place. Then, tie in the wings tight against the end of the body so they stick out. I must admit I didn't give much thought to any particular proportion for the wings, but most of my Night Flies ended up with wings as long, or a little longer than the hook shank." Hook: #2/0-8 Thread: Black Tail: The material is optional, unless you want to add a couple of small kickers for the tail, in which case feathers with stiff enough stems to kick well must be used. Palmered Hackle: Black or Dark Blue Dun Body: Black dubbing or chenille Wings(original): Loon back feathers (These are now illegal to use, but you can use any stiff quilled feather like goose. The quills have to be stiff enough to pulsate well and spring back into position). The above is a direct quote from the book. There is a picture in the book of the fly and I will try to post it. By looking at the fly, Mr. Harvey's desrciption above makes more sense. Sorry for my poor photography skills.