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HammerCreek

Muddler Minnow

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Wanted to space out the muddlers...here's the non-marabou version!

 

Muddler Minnow
Hook: 4-12 Streamer
Tail: Turkey Flat
Body: Medium Holo Tinsel
Rib: Brassie Copper Ultra Wire
Under Wing: Fox Squirrel Tail
Wing: Turkey Flat
Head: Spun Deer Hair
Thread: 140 Olive

 

 

post-49121-0-15835600-1380155272_thumb.jpg

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Very nice and teaching video, with good explanations on what you do (unfortunately not why... and there's always a why).

Also the background and lighting is very nice and soothing, and really gives a good feel of the tye.

 

I would recommend that the rib is tyed under the hook, not to disturb the balance of the hook in the water.

However on this particular fly, the tail and wing will likely keep the fly upright.

 

Also, the more even an underbody, the more even the tinsel will lay upon the body, not that it looks bad, but small tips and tricks do improve the overall flytying.

And tye tinsel from eye to tail and back.

(3:20) With smooth underbody, you do not have to turn the tinsel back again.

 

Nice video, but a few adjustments could be needed.

And I didn't mention the little hook point chip on the thread around (2:35) - not very important, but anyway, not something anyone would like to have in a video ;-)

 

Cut the wing-hair before tying in, it's much easier.

 

And on the feather wing, I personally like to do all size and width measurements before tying in.

 

The head is nicely cut, and I like the fact that you do handle large lumps of hair, I would not get that nice result using large lumps, I tend to use smaller lumps and do more stacking.

 

Hope you can use my feedback, it's meant constructive (I know the written work not always let that show through)

 

/Henrik

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Glad I found this video HammerCreek. I made a foolish promise to trade a guy some flies for a showshoe rabbit foot and wouldn't ya' know he asked for a couple of muddlers. Never tied one before or spun deer hair. Between your video and Henrik's tips I will give it a whirl later today.

 

Nick

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I thought that it was a good video. I usually use slips from quills but you gave me something new to try now. I agree with the tinsel starting in the front and then go to the back and then forward again because it will cover better and doesn't tend to leave any gaps but you did a good job with it and I am not criticizing in any way. I usually bend the razor blades in half, very carefully, until they snap and then you have two pieces and don't have to worry about the sharp edge facing your fingers and plus you can bend the blade and get a nice curve to trim with or if you choose not to break them then a piece of masking tape on the rear edge will save you from dripping blood on your tying desk. Don't ask me how I know this.....

 

Vicrider, I got myself in a similar situation. My driveway needed about a foot and a half of snow removed and the fellow that owned the tractor turned out to be a fly fisher. He didn't charge me anything for doing it but said that he would like to have some flies. I was thinking dries and nymphs but he wanted muddlers. After a couple hours at the vise he now has some muddles and marabou muddlers and even some spuddlers.

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once again a nice twist on an old standby. These things used to take up three quarters of Dan Bailey's Fly Shop in Livingston. The original version used a mottled oak turkey flat for tail and wing and also only used a single piece tied on with the pinch. See Jack Dennis' Western Fly Tying Manual Vol. 1. They also used gold tinsel. This is just commentary however because your techniques simplify what used to be a challenging fly and allow it to be produced more quickly and consistently. I was kind of partial to the pinch tied wing and its curve when tied properly however. Keep up the good work.

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