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Where do I cut ?


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5 replies to this topic

#1 Alex C.

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Posted 01 March 2005 - 11:58 AM

Alright, I'm getting my steelhead stuff rigged up and am replacing the leader. Now do I cut the actual fly line itself, or do I try and cut the knot so I don't cut the fly line. Iknow this is probably the stupidest question I've asked yet but that's ok biggrin.gif Now looking at it, I would guess you cut the fly line so when I tie in the new leader, the knot will be on a "clean" surface. Is this right? The only reason I second guess myself on this is it's a shooting head line and it seems like you'd want as much "head" as possible dunno.gif

#2 Graham

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Posted 01 March 2005 - 12:19 PM

Hey Skunked,

I cut the fly line, you should lose less than 1. If its a floating line I put a drop of zap-a-gap on the end to try and keep moisture from wicking up the core. For years I tied a foot of 30lb Hal Janssen leader butt material onto the end of my fly lines and would cut this when changing leaders. But, I like to have as few knots on my line as possible, and no connecting loops, so for the past few years I tie my leader directly onto the fly line with a nail knot, drop of zap-a-gap, then blood knot my tippet onto the leader.
When Ive changed tippets enough times and need to replace the leader I just cut about off the fly line and put on a fresh leader. Years ago a guide on the San Juan showed me how he joined a leader to a fly line. He cut the butt end of the leader diagonally, pushed a bodkin up inside the core of the fly line, put a drop of zap-a-gap onto the leader, then quickly pulled out the bodkin and pushed the leader butt into the hole, needs to go in at least 1. I was amazed how hard you could pull on this connection, tippet will certainly break first. I like to target big browns, fish the salt locally, and I have the most confidence with leaders nail knotted directly to the fly line.

Graham


#3 Alex C.

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Posted 01 March 2005 - 12:24 PM

Thanks Graham,I'm pretty sure it's a sinking line. It would float, but only for a second, or right away when the faucet stream or my hand would push it under. So how much can be cut off before the shooting head becomes inaffective?

#4 DFix

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 02:25 PM

QUOTE (skunked @ Mar 1 2005, 12:24 PM)
Thanks Graham,I'm pretty sure it's a sinking line.  It would float, but only for a second, or right away when the faucet stream or my hand would push it under.  So how much can be cut off before  the shooting head becomes inaffective?

Feet. Generally.

Density isn't the consideration as much as is construction of the taper or head, which is more what you're asking about in a roundabout way.

Check the diagram in your line description and it will identify the different parts. A shooting head takes up the first 25-35' (roughly) of a line. The more taken off, the more different the line and rod will react, don't forget.

I snip off roughly a half-inch if I'm cutting the line; it makes more sense to connect a butt section and use that up first most instances.

#5 Alex C.

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 02:30 PM

Thanks, I didn't get a line diagram though cause I got the rod/reel through a trade, I guess if push comes to shove and it doesn't work I will have to head to the store and bu new fly line, but I think I'll be alright , thanks again

#6 Greg H.

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:57 PM

Most lines of any type have about 18" of tip before the thicker WF or Shooting Head portion. Thus the energy transfer from the line to the leader is compressed and the tip/leader connection can have an smooth transition. On a floating line I can actually see or feel with my fingers the diminution of taper toward the end. This is not as easily felt in a sinking line, but there should be lots of room to lose 3/4" per year for the next 8-10 years.