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First stab at Materials...
Posted 20 September 2018 - 12:29 AM
Your wraps are perfectly even and controlled on this one, touching turns, and no lumps at all. It's easier to see what you're doing with the bigger thread, and that plus your attention to it are paying off.
My only real critique would be the shape of the body, which isn't even necessarily off here. A thin profile may be what you're after on a particular fly, but you also want to learn how to build up a more meaty abdomen both in a carrot shape and in a more bulbous shape. Try doubling the back and forth on the 4/5 and tripling it on the 3/5 and 2/5, and then maybe doubling or singling it on the last 1/5. Shape and proportion are what you are after, besides being neat and efficient.
"Fly tying is replete with unproven theories and contradictions and therein lies much of it's charm and fascination." George F. Grant, The Master Fly Weaver
Posted 20 September 2018 - 07:44 AM
Barbed hooks rule!
My definition of work: Doing something in which effort exceeds gain.
Ex-Marine ... quondam fidelis
Posted 20 September 2018 - 09:56 AM
It's only Thread...
Posted 20 September 2018 - 10:56 AM
I was going to say 'you let the thread un-twist is why you got the "floss" look in the front 1/3 of the body', until I read Mike's comment.
The segmented level body is more typical of the "worms" I see in the waters that I have turned rocks over in, however, many of the popular patterns call for the strongly tapered look of Mike's nymphs. Nothing wrong with either look, if that is what you intended to do.
You just illustrated the resulting difference of two thread handling techniques in one body. I had probably tied and fished 50-100 flies by the time I noticed that. But the book I learned from used floss for that smooth tapered slick body type, I still would use floss because I always have. I also don't tie many smooth bodies.
Posted 20 September 2018 - 12:32 PM
I use floss unless the hook is #18 or smaller. Then I use thread with twist control techniques described above. Either way, unless Tenkara style does not call for wire, I would use a fine gold, copper, or silver wire to protect the body. Not necessary if you use UV Resin or other coating. Not saying you're wrong, just giving my $0.02