Jump to content
Fly Tying

SilverCreek

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    3,481
  • Joined

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About SilverCreek

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Favorite Species
    Trout
  • Security
    2010

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You can go to my post on this link: https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/selecting-deer-or-elk-hair-for-comparaduns.251936/
  2. Did you not write in your OP: "Criticism welcome" I did post how to purchase good deer and elk hair; but I deleted it since you are apparently not interested, and I seem to have wasted my time.
  3. I've tried and failed! It is one of the those flies I cannot master.
  4. After tying a no hackle dry fly, try casting it. I bet it it will spin and twist your tippet. The wings are have to be perfect and I mean PERFECT for the fly to be aerodynamically stable when cast. First of all, the fly should be tied using MATCHING right and left wings taken from the SAME goose. Then you need matching feathers taken from the identical location from those L and R wings. Then you need to cut the flies wing slips from the identical matching spot from those two matching wings and you better hope they match. Then you need to mount them on the correct side of the fly, each one at the same slant to the rear, the same tilt to the side and the same same length. Any slight variation and the fly will spin. So using matching wings and feather slips gives the tier the best chance of success. In my opinion, a no hackle dry fly one of the most difficult dry flies to tie and you won't know if it is tied right until you cast it. It can look good and still spin. I bet there are very few members that even have matching wings that are identified as taken from the same goose. I have hunters save them in separate bags but I haven't seen fly shops sell matching goose wing feathers that way.
  5. Did you use a hair stacker? If not, get a hair stacker to line up the ends of the elk hair and then measure the lined up hair against the fly and tie it in so it needs no trimming. Hair stackers come in various sizes so buy 3 sizes of them to cover tiny flies, medium sized flies and large flies. I wrote about tying elk hair caddis adn buying the correct hair for the fly on this post on another site. Copy and paste into your browser and go down to my post. https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/tips-for-tying-the-elk-hair-caddis.906270/#post-1578963
  6. If you think barbless hooks kill SIGNIFICANTLY fewer trout so that it affects the trout population, please provide the studies. Copy and paste the links below into your browser. On the contrary, the best summary of published and peer reviewed fisheries studies shows no population effects. Barbed flies have effect on trout populations. Here is the best scientific study of barbed vs barbless hooks. See pg. 72 of the Wild Trout VI Symposium. Needless to say, only the most rigorously peer reviewed and important articles are choses for the Wild Trout Symposium. TU, The Trout and Salmon Foundation, FFF, Atlantic Salmon foundation as well as the EPA support the Wild Trout Symposium. Yet the facts continue to be ignored. http://www.wildtroutsymposium.com/proceedings-6.pdf Here is the full article from the Idaho Fisheries Dept: https://collaboration.idfg.idaho.gov/FisheriesTechnicalReports/Res-Schill1997%20Barbed%20Hook%20Restrictions%20in%20Catch-and-Release%20Trout%20Fisheries--A%20Social%20Issue.pdf https://afspubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1577/1548-8675(1997)017<0873%3ABHRICA>2.3.CO%3B2 "For flies and lures combined, mean hooking mortality was 4.5% for barbed hooks and 4.2% for barbless hooks. Combination of test statistics from individual studies by gear type via meta-analysis yielded nonsignificant results for barbed versus barbless flies, lures, or flies and lures combined. We conclude that the use of barbed or barbless flies or lures plays no role in subsequent mortality of trout caught and released by anglers. Because natural mortality rates for wild trout in streams commonly range from 30% to 65% annually, a 0.3% mean difference in hooking mortality for the two hook types is irrelevant at the population level, even when fish are subjected to repeated capture." Studies in an ocean fishery showed the same result. http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1577/1548-8675(2002)022<0229:POBABH>2.0.CO;2 "In this fishery, barbless hooks probably did not reduce hooking mortality and conferred only slight benefits at the expense of reduced catches." Studies using barbed and barbless lures (Mepps Spinners) showed no "biological advantage with the use of single- or barbless-hook spinners when caught wild stream trout will be released." https://afspubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1577/M02-171.1 However, studies on the capture efficiency of barbed vs barbless artificial flies shows that barbless flies show anglers using barbed flies land 76% of hooked fish = 13% more fish than anglers using barbless flies = 63% landed. So barbed flies land 20.6% (13/63)more fish than barbless flies. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02755947.2013.769920#.UaoBX-CkMrg
  7. I read that also. He will be missed.
  8. No one has mentioned the McMurray ant by Ed Sutryn. I have found that this pattern will take trout when they are refusing other ant patterns. The original uses a balsa wood body segments glued onto mono and then painted. https://www.flydreamers.com/en/fly-tying/mc-murray-ant-vl233 Here are the instructions per Jack Tucker of Flyfish@ which was published on the Virtual Flybox. There are two more modern adaptations that work equally well. The first uses foam cylinders cut to size for the body segments and then threaded on mono alternating the short and long body segments. Then glue the body segments into place. Cut the mono later to form the individual bodies. They are really fussy to make and I have my own easier version. All that is needed are foam cylinders of the correct diameter. I make my own using a cork borer, but you can buy foam ant bodies. A cork borer is a set of nested hollow tubes that are used to bore holes in cork or rubber stoppers that are used in chemistry labs for flasks. You can get a used set on the auction site. https://www.ebay.com/itm/264458280950?_ I make my bodies and the string them on a piece of mono and glue them into place. After the glue has dried, cut off the ant bodies and tie the fly. You can make flying ant patterns by tying in a bit of crystal flash as the wings. If you want to coat the foam, they can be painted with liquid latex (Rub-R-Mold) which can be bought at hobby stores. If you are going to paint the foam, you can cut rectangular strips of foam from a foam sheet and then use the rectangular pieces cut to size. The latex paint will smooth over the edges. If you can't decide when to use a red ant or a black ant, make up some McMurray ants with a red thorax and a black body. They work. Here is a black ant I tied using one of my home made cork borer bodies. The second adaptation uses dimensional fabric paint. The paint is applied to thread to form the body segments. Since it is dimensional paint it will form a smooth shiny body on the thread. There is no need to paint since the bodies are paint. Different colors can be used from black to brown to cinnamon red. After the paint dries, cut off the individual bodies with the thread connectors and tie the flies. Either of these two methods make wonderful ants and they are much easier than the original McMurray balsa wood bodies. The dimensional paint can even form the realistic natural tapering of the ant body. I also make Harrison Steeve’s Attract Ants and Transpar Ants http://www.oocities.org/gold_trout/articles/TransparANT.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sK6P02Dc5pc This is my ant box.
  9. 1. The hook gap is pretty narrow/ So if you are getting hits but no hookups, use a 2X short hook. It will have a wider hook gap for teh shank length. 2. The hackle is too long. Trim the hackle to proper size on some of the flies and see if there is a difference in the number hits you get. 3. Fish them close to the banks and under overhanging grass and trees. Fish them after right after a thunderstorm. They get washed into the stream
  10. His robot. https://youtu.be/5_jp9CwJhcA?si=azEfcscHB7Oz-rAx&t=275
  11. Second reason for auto shut off is to reduce greenhouse gas emissions to reduce global warming.
  12. I thought there was a work around for posting videos but I can't find it. There used to be a method as this old thread shows https://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?/topic/80414-embedding-videos/&tab=comments#comment-616671
  13. There is no need to use wax or waxed thread. The best fly tyer I have ever met is Royce Damm. He won the 1994 Buzz Busek award from the FFI; https://www.flyfishersinternational.org/Portals/0/FlyTyingGroup/FTGDocuments/Buszek/1994_RoyceDam.pdf I wrote about his method of dubbing here: https://www.theflyfishingforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/sticky-wax-question.917045/#post-1672183
  14. It might have a special name but I think it is a bead head wooly bugger variant. Maybe someone will recognize it and give you a specific name.
×
×
  • Create New...