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0 NeutralAbout oarfish
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Rank
Advanced Member
- Birthday 01/05/1952
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Favorite Species
Steelhead
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Security
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Profile Information
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Location
Monterey Bay
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Me to AK you could get two slightly used sons at one time, I'm just 61 I could be the older brother.
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I also like this little fly, thanks for the post.
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How High Should the Jaws of my Vise Be?
oarfish replied to Randyflycaster's topic in Beginner's Corner
Yea it's up to your needs, I have a pedestal and clamp, I use at home the clamp attached to an eight inch higher base that I put together which puts me closer to the work. I use just the base just at club tyes and away from home. -
California high country pack rod
oarfish replied to Steeldrifter's topic in Fly Fishing Gear & Techniques
You can count on the advise this man gives. -
Welcome to the site, I'm from Mammoth county.
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Great video about life, family and trout fishing.
oarfish replied to troutguy's topic in Fly Fishing Gear & Techniques
Your a lucky man. -
There are lots of suppliers that offer the removeable fighting butts, a couple that I use are Anglers Workshop and Mud Hole.
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Take a look at a TFO Prism 9/11 or a lighter one from TFO
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I don’t know how much the rod goes into ferrule, maybe you could trim the ferrule and rewrap. If it were me I’d remove the flex-coat and see how far the cracks go up the rod, the crack that you have posted looks as if it was not fitting well to begin with. I would remove the flex coat on the wraps with my Dremel tool just down to the thread which will make it easer to peel the rest off, after clean up I would coat the cracked area with a very very thin coat of epoxy and let it cure. Finnish the repair with a bottom wrap of size A thread and a top wrap of size D thread and coat the repair with a high build flex-coat, don’t loose you rods alignment dots. If you don’t have a Dremel around break out the hair dryer to warm up the flex-coat finish and use a utility knife to slice through it, take your time, and always wax your fittings before you put the rod together. I hope you can get some more life out of the rod.
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I use griffin ceramic bobbins for thread but use metal for wire and lead.
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What Orvis line are you thinking about?
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I used the motor from an aluminum Christmas tree rotating color light, 4 rpm works great.
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Yes it floats very well, a tip on adding floatant only use a product called Frog Fanny it won't gum up the CDC.
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Very buggy start out with a couple of neutral colors, a grayish white and a brown are the colors I use at the moment. There is some usefull reading here: http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/tying-with-cdc/
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The flytire just gave you a very good post, he beat me to it, a good sticky wax that I use when the dubbing has different ideas is Rumpf extra tacky wax.