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Fly line to leader
Posted 01 May 2011 - 10:58 PM
Keep on chuckin'
Bryan 'salty Fly'
keep on chuckin'
Surf fish bum
Posted 02 May 2011 - 11:34 AM
But first a little backstory. I've been a full-time guide now for about 15 years in the saltwater portion of the Everglades and go after fish every way with every kind of gear (if I restricted myself to fly only... I'd have given up long ago). I regularly get fly anglers who are making their first or second trip to the salt. Many show up with good quality gear that was carefully set up by their local fly shop, including backing, and leader to fly line connections. After a few failures I learned the hard way to physically check their connections. If and when they fail (all too often) I quickly set them up correctly and we're off to the races. Here's the check I do for leader to fly line connections - I take two wraps on each hand (one with fly line, the other with leader) so that my two hands are close together. Make fists, then pull slowly across my chest until the line hurts my hands... Any connection that survives this test (I'm pretty sure I'm putting over 15lbs of pressure on those knots) is ready for what we might be able to do to it with a big fish.
For connections all I ever use is a single seven turn speed nail knot on floating lines, and two of those nail knots in a row on intermediate or monocore lines ( a single nail knot will not hold on an intermediate line in my experience). There are other knots that are as strong but very few that make a small neat connection that should go back and forth through the guides under heavy pressure without snagging, etc. As far as butt section sizes, I routinely use 40lb mono (usually Ande premium in any color) for 7 through 9wt lines, 50lb for 10wt, and 60lb for 11 & 12wt lines. Since I need a quick change leader system, the butt section always ends in a surgeon's loop with four feet of butt for 7 to 9wts, five feet for a 10wt, and six feet for an 11 on up.
Once you're set up properly with knots you have confidence in.... you're still not done. In use your leader and connections are going to take a beating from everything they make contact with. I try to inspect my leader to fly line connection every day (and certainly after encounters with mangroves and other things that are hard on anything they touch). Whenever I've forgotten to do this checking I'm just gambling whenever an angler hooks up on a big fish...
Hope this helps
Posted 02 May 2011 - 01:04 PM
Thanks for the tips.Do you have a good link for the speed nail knot? Its probley on youtube.I have been using perfection loops when make my leaders.I fish the surf also and use the same set up for bulding my leaders.I think I will use the nail knot for connecting my leader to my fly line and bulding my leaders.So, looks like I need to learn A new knot.Again, thanks.
Keep on chuckin'
Bryan 'Salty fly'
keep on chuckin'
Surf fish bum
Posted 03 May 2011 - 01:50 PM
Posted 03 May 2011 - 05:41 PM
On the lines I don't use a whipped loop, I have come to really like the Whitlock no-knot zap a gap method. Also very strong when done correctly, and it definitely stays stronger than any sensible tippet for at least a few years. I might be in the minority, but I get a long life out of most of my leaders- I use either a loop-to-loop or a mini tippet ring to add tippet, so my tapered leaders don't get short on me. I can usually get a good part of a season out of one leader, although I don't get to fish as much as many people do.
The way I see it, the tippet (excluding bite tippet) should be the weakest link in your system. Tippet should fail long before anything else.
the gales of November remembered...
Posted 03 May 2011 - 10:01 PM
For nail knots, rather than buy the tool, I use a large darning needle. It's cheap and easy to carry with you, and no big deal if you loose it.
Posted 04 May 2011 - 03:19 PM
i've gotten sh!t about using glue and the heat shrink tube and the knots, but at the end of the day it all holds together!
the connector uses the chinese finger cuff principle. yea right!
Poor quality materials and tools are destined to discourage beginner and experienced tiers and cause greater expense when the time comes to replace them.
Fly tyers can be masters at making things complicated!
Posted 05 May 2011 - 06:37 AM
Posted 05 May 2011 - 08:21 AM
I paint all threadwork and potential steps and bumps with Shoe Goo thinned with toluene.
Posted 06 May 2011 - 05:02 PM