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This is a pattern I came up with for chasing tailing redfish on the flooded grass flats.

 

Recipe

- Gamakatsu B10S Stinger (usually a size 2 but I tend to tie up #4s also)

- Lead eyes (I lean towards small but you might try med as well)

- Tail: Finn raccoon in crawdad orange)

Optional: copper or rusty brown Krystal flash can be included.

- Body: EP streamer brush (I use tarantula hairy legs or a crustaceous brush with micro legs)

- Legs: pumpkin or olive silly legs

- 20# fluoro weedguard

- Clear Cure Goo or 5-min epoxy

 

Step 1: Start thread about an eye's length from the eye and trim the remaining thread.

step1.png

 

Step 2: Tie in lead eyes using a solid figure-8 pattern. A dab of head cement helps keep the eyes on

top of the shank.

step2.png

 

Step 3: Wrap the thread just past the bend.

step3.png

 

Step 4: Measure out about a hooks' length of finn coon.

step4.png

 

Step 5: Hold the finn coon at the hook bend. Pinch the thread between your thumb and finger as you

make a couple of loose wraps before applying pressure and securing the material to the hook.

step5.png

 

Step 6: Make several more wraps to secure the tail and cut off the remaining material.

step6.png

 

Step 7: Tie in the EP brush.

step7.png

 

Step 8: Wrap the brush forward to the eyes. Sweep the material back against the wire to keep it from

cluttering the shank too much. Tie off the brush behind the eyes. Trim the remaining brush. Don't use

your good scissors!

step8.png

 

Step 9: CAREFULLY trim the fly to the desired shape. I prefer to trim close to the shank leaving sort

of an elongated body. Note that the thread is still attached so be very careful. As a safety measure I

like to do a quick loop knot to secure the thread in case I accidentally snip it.

step9.png

 

Step 10: With the body trimmed, invert the hook and lay a thin bead of Clear Cure Goo or 5-min epoxy

on the bottom of the shank. I prefer CCG since I have less waste.

step10.png

 

Step 11: Cut two silly legs in half. You only need three for this hook size so save the 4th for another day.

I use a bodkin to push the legs down into the CCG. Once everything is evenly spaced and positioned

where I want it I hit the CCG with the UV light for about 30 seconds to cure it.

step11.png

 

Step 12: There are million ways to add a weedguard. I like to take about 2" of 20# fluoro which I fold in

half and pinch. Straddle the shank with the fluoro and make about 5-6 loose wraps to position it. Pull

the guard down against the shank and make several more wraps to secure it.

step12.png

 

Step 13: Invert the fly again and push the guard forward. Make another dozen or so wraps to build a

dam behind the guard to keep it pushed forward. Trim the guard so the tips are just past the point. You

can also use CCG or leftover epoxy to do the same thing.

step13.png

 

Step 14: Whip finish, cut the thread, and end with a dab of head cement to give the fly a little longevity.

final.png

 

Now go catch some fish!

 

sawpit-red-640.png

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Fla, I let him go. My son was quite disappointed. :)

 

islander, I hate tying legs on. CCG for the win!

 

Thanks for the comments guys. Glad y'all are getting some ideas from it.

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I often just glue the legs in place on merkin style flies with UV resin as well. You can get them to lay as you want without having to run the thread through the body of the fly

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Legs on bottom, glue in, then white fabric paint on bottom with some light tan coloring, keep this layer thin and central, not out to the edges, on the same basic tie tests well

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