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RoyalWulff

Another Soft Hackle Question

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This one is a little more concerned with protocol rather then anything else. I am using a hungariam partridge skin that I bought and when wrapping the hackle, I tie it in a the tip and wrap.

 

FOr some reason I feel like I am doing it backwards. I think I remember someone tying it in by the stem. I cannot think how much of a difference this will make, other then stem breakage, or build up at the head. How is this normally done?

 

I know that the barbs at the tip are generally smaller then the barbs at the base, so if you were to be smart you may get a slightly smaller hackle from the tip. Anyways, im looking forward to some enlightheing answers

 

 

 

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I also tie them in by the tip.

The tip is much thinner and easier to tie in.

Also, when you go wind, the feather (when tied in by the stem) it will tend to break. Not to mention it will take up more room on the hook then if it is tied by the tip.

 

I would say that by tying in by the tip you get a sparse look to the hackle.

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Agreed. I've always tied in by the tip. Also, strip the feather so you have a small amount of bare stem to begin the wrap. That keeps those first barbs sticking out straight from the hook.

But I also have seen step-by-steps showing the hackle tied in by the stem. I believe S. Nemes (soft hackle Guru, and my hero) ties in by the tip. It might be one of those "whatever works for you" things.

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Yes, tying in by the tip is a matter of preference. It can also be more useful to do so. I often tie hen in by the tip when wrapping a hackle through the thorax of a flymph. This brings the larger fibers forward near the eye. The main concern is getting the fibers to cup backwards toward the bend, not toward the eye. Getting the hackle to wrap this way takes manipulation of the feather and getting it started in the wrap correctly. Some feathers just don't cooperate.

 

Also stripping one side of the feather, usually the left side with the front of the hackle facing you, when tying in by the tip, helps to cut back on the number of fibers on the fly and helps it to start the wrap correctly. You don't have to strip all the way to the tip. You strip up to where you want the stem to start the wrap on the hook.

 

As almost anything in tying-practice makes perfect. Also, Brahma and speckled hen make very reasonable substitutes for partridge and are easier to wrap.

 

I hope this helps,

Mark

 

P.S. I do not tie my hackle, partridge or otherwise, on the shank the same way every time. It truly depends upon what I'm trying to accomplish. It's important to learn a number of different methods.

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Several years ago,I attended a memorial dedication,for James Leisenring,along the banks of my home stream,the Little Lehigh. The ceremonies included an appearance by none other than Ernest Schweibert! After his talk,he was mingling around in the crowd,and I was able to have him sign my copy of Matching the Hatch. He asked me what I had been tying,and at the time,it just so happened to be soft hackle patterns. He looked at me,and said " You DID tip-tie those partridge hackles,didn't you"...to which I quickly replied..."is there any other way"????

 

 

 

 

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Good Call Sulphur!

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. It seems overwhelming and certain that the tip is teh way to go. It just seems easier to me.

 

Thanks again,

 

 

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Ok, I'll be the Devil's advocate here. I tie in lower on the stem not by the tips. I used to tie by the tips. I agree it is a matter of preference, but I'll tell you why. I think it's easier and it makes a more durable fly.

 

This is how I do it.

 

Feather prep:

Strip the barbs (both sides) from the lower portion of the stem up to the largest size barbs that you need.

With the convex side facing you, strip just a couple more barbs from the right side only. This forms a small flat surface along the stem and keeps the hackle from twisting when your start to wrap.

 

The Basic Fly

1. Attach thread to front of hook shank.

2. Tie in prepared feather right behind the eye with the concave side facing away from you and the hackle tip over the eye. The little space where you stripped just a couple barbs from should be laying on the hook shank.

3. Tie your fly's body as you would normally.

4. End your thread, after tying your body, at the front of your thorax or just back a bit from the hook eye.

5. Now wrap your hackle back towards your thread. This leaves the longer hackles at the front and allows the natural bend of the hackles to sweep back but still radiate from the shank perpendicular so as not to loose any crucial movement. Just a couple wraps will do.

6. Wrap the stem down tight with your thread. 2 tight wraps of thread one over the other will do it. Cut or break the hackle tip off. If you tied it down good, I think it is better to just break the hackle tip off. It leaves an unnoticeable ragged tip that has a less chance of pulling out from under the thread.

7. Wrap your thread through your hackle to just behind the eye. This makes a very durable hackle.

8. Form a neat head.

 

Here is a couple soft hackles that I did in this style. As my mother always said, "Try it, you might like it."

 

post-13329-1202949184_thumb.jpgpost-13329-1202949390_thumb.jpg

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Thanks Mark.

 

Yeah, the best way is really the way that each person is comfortable with to serve their purpose. I use to tie by the tips but I kept breaking the stem and for some reason had a hard time with the head getting to big with the tie down wraps and the whip finish at the same point. Often the heads pushed the hackle back further than I liked.

 

You've got to be careful talking about skinning cats on a tying site. :D

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Yikes!

 

I just noticed this thread and find myself in the (very) minority. For soft-hackle flies I almost always tye my feathers in by the root and then wrap rearwards to my awaiting thread, which I then wrap through the hackle collar. Thus my hackle is locked down by several wraps of thread. An additional advantage is that should the hackle break (which is a common occurence when using the tiny marginal coverts of starling, snipe, etc) it will break at the hackle pliers and won't need to be retyed to the hook.

 

 

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