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Which Bobbin?


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41 replies to this topic

#16 SmallieHunter

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Posted 11 August 2008 - 10:22 AM

Would have to agree with Al. After reading his review I have been using one and it is really nice

http://www.hatchesma.../page/month/361

test


#17 Ron Eagle Elk

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 12:49 PM

I've got a couple of Norlander bobbins that I use for most of my tying using Danville or Uni threads. For Pearsalls I like the Wasatch Mini Bobbin. I bougtht a Mitch's Bobbin Whirler from Dean at a show in Ellensburg last May. Like all the Wasatch tools I own, I really like using it, very comfortable in the hand.

#18 DHise

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 03:22 PM

Hasn't anyone used the C&F? You wont go back once you use one. Ergonomic, precise thread placement, and great balance. They are $45.00 but well worth the investment. How much did you spend on that rifle or shotgun that you use 4 times a year?
"Vegetarian" is an Indian word for "bad hunter"


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#19 Big E

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 08:40 PM

Well I think I might have found it! I picked up a Rite bobbin the other day and while I have only tied a few flies with it, it seems pretty nice. I like the adjustability of the tension. I still think I will pick up one of Mitch's and perhaps have a look at the C&F but my main bobbin of choice so far is the Rite.

Thanks for all who responded and offering me options.

#20 FKROW

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 11:12 AM

Matarelli standard bobbin for me.

I have some ceramics but do not find them necessary.

The steel tube is polished by the thread with every turn,,,, the only reason for frayed thread is the tyer dinging the hook point on a wrap turn or dropping the bobbin tube and making a burr. A burr is very easy to polish out with a toothpick and mild abrasive in a Dremel tool, I have done this for several friends.

Regards,
FK

#21 DoubleHaul

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Posted 10 September 2008 - 11:52 AM

Thanks FK for a great tip.
FM bobbins are great but its real easy to nick the tube on a stainless hook thats been sharpened with a file.
I'll try your toothpick method.

-Jeff

#22 iso18

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Posted 12 September 2008 - 04:12 AM

dont get the 12.00 ceramic with two ball shaped attatchments that attach to your thread.i bought this thing a month ago and it is teriible puts way to much tension on everything.unfortunately i dont know the name,but it came from gander mt.and has two gold balls u hook your tying thread2.
after saying that my 3.00 standard bobbin has always served me well,very smooth
shane wv

#23 fxp

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Posted 03 October 2008 - 06:39 AM

hi i'm new here and this thread caught my eye. i love tying but i'm lazy and thrifty {read cheap}. i also hated the idea of cutting lengths of material like floss and chenille and then throwing part of it away as i clipped off the waste end. it occurred to me that we don't do that with the thread even tho it's a lot cheaper than chenille or floss. so i wanted all my threads and mono and floss already on the bobbin and threaded and ready to grab on a whim but i couldn't justify buying 20-30 good bobbins for things i might use once every few months!
i looked into buying cheap bobbins directly at under $2.00 each but the factories (found some in india) wanted minimum orders of $500 or more and you can't get ceramic for that price.
Long story short = i devised a method for making my own at about $1.50 each. they work just as well as a ceramic ( the trick is to use a glass seed bead for the ends, all details in the attachment). you can modify the length to suit your hand. you can also set-and -forget the tension for each thread since it has it's own dedicated holder. everything's in the attachment. i'd love to hear back if any of you try this and like, or hate, it. they work like my typing. not pretty but it gets the job done! by the way, i bet the seed bead would work for those with the worn bobbin tip problems.


best wishes[attachmentid=16420]

Attached Files


Frank

#24 Futzer

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Posted 10 October 2008 - 05:00 PM

I exclusively use the C&F designs bobbins, I have worn out even good expensive ceramic ones, and the C&F's last the longest, and I like the foam that keeps the thread from falling out the back. I can wear out a metal tube bobbin in a few weeks.

Cheers, Futzer
Tie a man a fly and you give him fresh air, some exercise and a lot of fun. Teach a man to tie flies and eventually it takes over all free time, a room in his house and several thousand of his dollars.

#25 fxp

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Posted 10 October 2008 - 06:30 PM

QUOTE (Futzer @ Oct 10 2008, 05:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I exclusively use the C&F designs bobbins, I have worn out even good expensive ceramic ones, and the C&F's last the longest, and I like the foam that keeps the thread from falling out the back. I can wear out a metal tube bobbin in a few weeks.

Cheers, Futzer



wow! how many flies are you tying? have you considered using the bead tip option to refurbish your bobbins?

also, do any of you know what's going on with the attachment editor. it wont start for me

fxp
Frank

#26 DHise

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Posted 10 October 2008 - 06:58 PM

Agreed. C&F are the best out there, bar none.


QUOTE (Futzer @ Oct 10 2008, 06:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I exclusively use the C&F designs bobbins, I have worn out even good expensive ceramic ones, and the C&F's last the longest, and I like the foam that keeps the thread from falling out the back. I can wear out a metal tube bobbin in a few weeks.

Cheers, Futzer


"Vegetarian" is an Indian word for "bad hunter"


http://castersonlineflyshop.com

#27 Futzer

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Posted 11 October 2008 - 06:01 PM

QUOTE (fxp @ Oct 10 2008, 05:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
QUOTE (Futzer @ Oct 10 2008, 05:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I exclusively use the C&F designs bobbins, I have worn out even good expensive ceramic ones, and the C&F's last the longest, and I like the foam that keeps the thread from falling out the back. I can wear out a metal tube bobbin in a few weeks.

Cheers, Futzer



wow! how many flies are you tying? have you considered using the bead tip option to refurbish your bobbins?

also, do any of you know what's going on with the attachment editor. it wont start for me

fxp


I don't tie as much as I once did, in college I was doing 1500 dozen a year. Now about 200 to 300 dozen a year. When I get moving I do about 10 dozen a day, of standard patterns. I have learned to tie with thread clips in hand and hand whip finish. I have worn out many tools and have tried the ceramic bead style, I still wear a nick into the ceramic bead after a while. I pretty much gave up repairing tools and just replace them. I even wear out the C&F design bobbins, but they last a long time. Very good quality ceramics. If you get the opportunity read "Production Fly Tying" by A.K. Best, there are lots of good speed tips.

Happy Tying, Cheers Futzer
Tie a man a fly and you give him fresh air, some exercise and a lot of fun. Teach a man to tie flies and eventually it takes over all free time, a room in his house and several thousand of his dollars.

#28 FISHN50

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 09:38 PM

Try this. Get a piece of Kevlar Thread & thread it thru the bobbin tube. Grab the 2 ends of the thread, one in each hand & spin the bobbin around. This usually polishes out any minor nicks in the tube. You can even add a little polishing compound to the thread if the nick is bad.
As a fellow cheapscate I have used this on a few old bobbins in our kids tying class box & it works....

#29 Big E

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Posted 09 May 2010 - 11:16 PM

Wow this one got dredged up. As a recap though, I've been quite happy with Rite bobbins and have about 7 of them now. I have kept my old ones and use them for lead.

#30 JohnP

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 01:25 AM

I just broke down and bought my first ceramic bobbin, a Griffin peewee. Have not used it enough to offer a report, but it got good reviews and the guy at the fly shop was high on it. My old Matarelli is still going strong. I am planning to use the ceramic primarily with Pearsall's silk thread, and continue using Uni in the Matarelli.