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New Tuffleye material
#1
Posted 17 May 2009 - 08:34 PM
Fred
visit my website http://www.realisticflytying.net
#2
Posted 17 May 2009 - 09:31 PM
#3
Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:56 AM
Does it cure to a tacky finish like the regular?
#4
Posted 18 May 2009 - 06:45 AM
Does it cure to a tacky finish like the regular?
Yes to a smaller degree. I wipe of alchohol and its gone. It's due in part to the curring process of the material. The inert properties in the material rise to the surface. When I used a similar material in my dental lab several years ago there were two ways to prevent this from happening. 1 was to place a clear plastic sheet against the material at curring .Or 2 use a liguid Air Barrrier Coating then rinse it off.
Salty dog it is a similar material in that they are all light cured acrylics that cure in a different light spectrum.
visit my website http://www.realisticflytying.net
#5
Posted 18 May 2009 - 03:36 PM
I beg to differ. A very major limitation of this material is its very high cost. Add to this the relatively short shelf life (1-1.5 years w/o refrigeration), and I really don't understand the attraction of Tuffleye, other than it is easy to manage. For the price, I can go through an awful lot of the more traditional materials. It is of course a really cool "toy" to play with...
#6
Posted 18 May 2009 - 04:17 PM
I beg to differ. A very major limitation of this material is its very high cost. Add to this the relatively short shelf life (1-1.5 years w/o refrigeration), and I really don't understand the attraction of Tuffleye, other than it is easy to manage. For the price, I can go through an awful lot of the more traditional materials. It is of course a really cool "toy" to play with...
The cost of the initlal kit is high but after that , the replacement material is quite affordable.
And I wont play the devil's advocate for Tuffleye just yet . I have not tried this material.
But they gave me a sizable ammount that I could try some things. So don't rush out and buy any just yet. At least not on my comments. But the flex material has different properties than any material on the market . It could lead to some very fish catching patterns. We will see.
Fred
visit my website http://www.realisticflytying.net
#7
Posted 18 May 2009 - 05:57 PM
lets see what you make!
#8
Posted 19 May 2009 - 02:31 AM
I don't mind working with epoxy, but it bugs me that my flies turn yellow eventually.
#9
Posted 19 May 2009 - 12:11 PM
I don't mind working with epoxy, but it bugs me that my flies turn yellow eventually.
That $10 for a tube of "core." You still need "finish" as well for another $4. BTW the tube's capcity are measured in cc's, not ounces. So for about what one would pay for 4 ounces of 30 minute epoxy, you get about a third of an ounce of Tuffleye. I do not tie enough saltwater patterns to make this a sensible expenditure, especially with the short shelf life of the product.
If all you need to do is avoid yellowing in the flies, just use a longer curing epoxy. A 30 minute epoxy should be fine in most cases and if you really want to go to town, use rod builder's epoxy.
While I really appreciate the "cool" factor and convenience of this product, it just doesn't sound practical to me but YMMV.
#10
Posted 19 May 2009 - 04:57 PM
As to shelf life - do you really expect your epoxy to last 2 years on the shelf? I have found that after about a year, the quality changes and it doesn't set properly anymore. And if it does set, it tends to yellow much quicker. So I make them both equal on this issue.
I had tried the Tuffleye product earlier and wasn't completely sold. I found that I wasn't curing it properly because I was holding the light too far from the fly. You hold the light about 1/4" from the fly and move it slowly so that any given area gets about 15 seconds of exposure. Done properly, the material cures very quickly. I've now purchased a kit for myself and plan to use it for a number of things.
Steve Flannagen of Shertz, TX was tying a spoon fly made with the product and I hope to have a video up soon showing his technique.
TxEngr
#11
Posted 19 May 2009 - 08:09 PM
Fly Fishermen: Making simple things complicated since the beginning of time!
#12
Posted 30 May 2009 - 05:08 AM
You might try curing your Loon Knot Sense with a Dental Curing light. I got one from my dentist that he was throwing out.(He went to cordless.)
I also was able to purchase a used one from Craigslist for $30. Kerr-Demetron is one of the best (400, 401 or 501). Stay away from Dentsply Caulk - "The Max".
The curing light hardens the UV Knot Sense in 10 seconds, for a light coating, such as a wingcase. Or 30 seconds for a heavy coating such as on a
Latex Scud.
It hardens to a crystal clear finish and does not yellow, with no "filmy" residue.
Also, be sure to use the shield that comes with the unit because you are using an intense UV Light and is bad for your eyes.
I also have used the Tufflye and went back to the UV Knot Sense. It also comes in a larger tube.
Or just stick it in the sunlight. I tie in my basement, hense the need for the curing light.
Kimo
#13
Posted 30 May 2009 - 09:35 AM
As to shelf life - do you really expect your epoxy to last 2 years on the shelf? I have found that after about a year, the quality changes and it doesn't set properly anymore. And if it does set, it tends to yellow much quicker. So I make them both equal on this issue.
I had tried the Tuffleye product earlier and wasn't completely sold. I found that I wasn't curing it properly because I was holding the light too far from the fly. You hold the light about 1/4" from the fly and move it slowly so that any given area gets about 15 seconds of exposure. Done properly, the material cures very quickly. I've now purchased a kit for myself and plan to use it for a number of things.
Steve Flannagen of Shertz, TX was tying a spoon fly made with the product and I hope to have a video up soon showing his technique.
TxEngr
I just mailed Steve some molds for his spoons and a crab body for the flex material. If the molds work as well as we expect, after his experimenting we may offer them to the public.The molds are made of a clear rigid but somewhat flexible material we use in the lab to make mouth guards and should allow the tuffleye to be cured from all angles and the fly to be easily removed thus speeding production with repeatable exacting results.The use of the clear mold will also create and air barrior which will allow the material to cure hard and smooth with no residue.This will remove a step and also speed production.
Fred
visit my website http://www.realisticflytying.net
#14
Posted 30 May 2009 - 10:02 AM
I will want a set of those, Fred.
Ray
419 Lake Air Drive
Waco, Texas 76710
E-mail: wacovet@yahoo.com
Phone: 254-772-3520, Cell: 254-744-2393
Web Address: http://www.emersonanimalhospital.com
#15
Posted 13 June 2009 - 07:21 PM
Fred, it sounds like you're doing what I plan to do - get some actual bait crabs and make molds. I plan on using silicone since I don't have access to the dentist stuff. Let me know how it all works and post some pics. Steves video is in edit now and I hope to post it sometime next week.
Buddy














