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oatka

Clear Cure Goo - Good For Poppers?

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I've been tying a lot of poppers lately. Ok, make that "painting" a lot of poppers lately. I've been putting 5 minute epoxy on them when they are all painted. I like how the epoxy looks when it's done, but it's not the easiest to work with. Since I've only got a few minutes to work with it I feel rushed, and ultimately I get only about 4 done at a time and most of them have pits in them....low points with no epoxy. Those are probably there because I'm rushing to get them done so I get more out of my epoxy. I've tried brushing it on and that seemed to help a little bit.

 

So, I'm wondering if anyone has used Clear Cure Goo for a top coat for popper bodies.

 

Does this stuff level well before you hit it with the light?

 

If you've used both epoxy and CCG for poppers, what reasons do you like the CCG over epoxy and do you think the cost difference is still worth it?

 

....and finally, can you post some photos of poppers you've covered with CCG?

 

Thanks!

 

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I havent used the Clear Cure yet but why dont you try the Delta Ceramcoat Gloss Exterior/Interior Varnish. That is what I use. I know others do as well. I think Loon also makes something you could use. Just some thoughts if the Clear Cure doesnt work out.

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I use it. I prefer the brushable on poppers, but even with that, I still get the occasional bald spot. I understand they have a new 'tack-free' version and I don't have that one, so all mine need to be topcoated anyway.

 

Call Brian at CCC - he knows more about it than anyone and he's really easy to work with.

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Oat, don't know about Clear Cure but HOLD THE PRESSES on the 5-Minute epoxy as a top coat. 5-minute epoxy will yellow on you before the year is out and all those beautiful paint jobs will be hidden beneath a yellowish/orange tint of epoxy.

30-Minute epoxy is the way to go for the top coat. There are at least several topics and posts here on the forum that talk about clear coating your poppers; there is liable to be some mention of alternative coatings. There are some waterbased products that some people use but they require several coats to build up.

Do a search on the forum for epoxy, coating poppers, etc. I know there is some invaluable information posted within these pages.

 

Kirk

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I use CCG pretty much exclusively. I used to use epoxy (never had a problem with yellowing BTW), but the CCG is nice for the convenience. I use either the brush-on or the tack-free and then hit it with Sally's to cover the tackiness. You can also use hand sanitizer to remove the tackiness.

 

Most of the poppers in this group are done with CCG and the Copic marker: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fritography/s...57622360363239/

 

Also, this tutorial:

 

Also, I usually find that letting the poppers dry completely before doing the "goo" makes for a better end-product.

 

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

 

 

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The right tool for the job at hand...

I'm well versed in Tuffleye, Bug-Bond, and CCG... epoxy too...

If I was going to be doing poppers or a bunch of anything in quantity, I'd opt for 30 minute epoxy and a turning wheel...

IMHO: The acrylics are wonderful but somewhat costly and, for this kind of application, perhaps epoxy might be the right tool...

 

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The right tool for the job at hand...

I'm well versed in Tuffleye, Bug-Bond, and CCG... epoxy too...

If I was going to be doing poppers or a bunch of anything in quantity, I'd opt for 30 minute epoxy and a turning wheel...

IMHO: The acrylics are wonderful but somewhat costly and, for this kind of application, perhaps epoxy might be the right tool...

 

Try Aleene's fabric glue. It will take a bit to dry but works well and is cheap. You need to hit it with some SHHAN after because it can be a bit tacky.

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oatka:

 

I have used nothing but 30-minute (2-ton) epoxy for years, and diluted as per my previous comments on this board, and have absolutely no reason to change. Thinning results in a much thinner, and therefore quicker and easier material to apply, along with increased 'working time'!

 

I use a 1:1:1 mix of hardener, resin, and 70% rubbing alcohol. There are those nay-sayers who are going to jump up and down and claim that the stuff turns milky! IT DOES! When being mixed!; but it dries gin-clear. Diluting does extend the drying time, as the alcohol needs time to evaporate out. I use hypodermic syringes for all of my measurements to get as precise measurements as I can.

 

I have been using this method for about 30 years now, and have a few bugs that date back to the beginning that I set aside as "examples', and they are just as clear today as they were on day one. Needless to say, I highly recommend it!

 

The Cypert Popper I posted earlier is one so treated, and is at least 10 years old! (My first really successful foil-embossing job).

 

perchjerker

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