Wetsock 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 So I am in I the Articulated nymph swap and I have never tyed this type fly so I have a few question. Proportion of the body is the hard part do you include the hook eye and tye in when figuring length? Or do you just make it the normal length. Here my fist try all feed back is welcome. One more thing how tight should the back be to the front hook. By the way there are still openings in the swap Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
josephcsylvia 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 Im not going to answer proportion ill leave that to the insect experts, but if the rear of that fly is holding itself up its to tight. Your articulation should be allowed to move freely. Looks good though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flytire 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 wet just continue tying the flies like you show above. they will be fine but loosen up on the loop. the body should swing freely Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dubs 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 I would suggest try removing the bead, or just loosen the loop. The mono or fireline or whatever you use will be able to move freely as the currents move it during the drift and also you could shorten your profile some. The idea is that a live insect freed from a rock into the drift is going to squirm and struggle trying to cling to something for safety. Proportion on these isn't always as accurate, but I'd say trimming the back part by about 1/3 should look a little more ideal for the main hook you have there. I like it a lot as is, and can tell a little tweaking will put it over the top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 I was 14 and 15, I spent two weeks each summer at Grampa and Gramma's cabin in Canada. It was my first time fishing outside my home town area. I was given a fly ... and it lasted the whole two weeks, catching more sunfish and crappie than others in my family did using live bait. I didn't know anything about fly tying them ... and I couldn't tell you if they were "home-made" or "store bought". But the rear hook had been connected to the front hook ... it looked like the eye had been crimped on, since it did NOT fit over the barb. Anyway ... it was definitely articulated, as the rear portion freely swung about. It looked like this: It was also responsible for my first 3 pound bass on a fly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 I would drop the bead. I have been tying my damsel for years without it and I have not had issues with it getting caught up in the front of the fly. Mele Kalikimaka, Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dubs 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 Kimo that's awesome stuff! Join the swap! Please? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikechell 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 Kimo ... on some of those, it looks like you've glued the rear shaft to the mono. Is that just for the pictures? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retrocarp 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 So I am in I the Articulated nymph swap and I have never tyed this type fly so I have a few question. Proportion of the body is the hard part do you include the hook eye and tye in when figuring length? Or do you just make it the normal length. Here my fist try all feed back is welcome. One more thing how tight should the back be to the front hook. By the way there are still openings in the swapimage.jpeg That's a nice nymph wetsock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retrocarp 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 I would drop the bead. I have been tying my damsel for years without it and I have not had issues with it getting caught up in the front of the fly. Mele Kalikimaka, Kimo Merry Xmas to you too Kimo. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 Kimo ... on some of those, it looks like you've glued the rear shaft to the mono. Is that just for the pictures? Yes, the bugga'h won't keep it's okole up without a lift. Just a touch of UVKS that comes right off. Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kennebec12 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 I just did a set for the first time for the skill builder swap. Most of the flies I looked at for reference had a tail about or just under a hook shank (one hook) the rear hook was the abdomen and the front hook was the thorax and the legs extended to either the end of the first hook or to about midway through the second hook, the legs were by far the most difficult part to get right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moucheur2003 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 Beautiful work, Kimo! What size/model are the hooks you use for the thorax? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kimo 0 Report post Posted December 23, 2015 Beautiful work, Kimo! What size/model are the hooks you use for the thorax? Thanks, TMC2457 - #14 Kimo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wetsock 0 Report post Posted December 24, 2015 Guys thanks for all the input and suggestions! I think I will shorten up the body and play with the attachment point. Kimo what can I say Wow! You have some real talent Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites