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johnvan

bead head pupa

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I hope I got this right. I use to use these all the time in #14 and #16. I bought them

from Orvis. I finally got bold and tried tying some in olive and cream. I didn't have

a recipe so I went by a picture I googled. I used a Mustad 3906 #14 hook, gold bead

head(not sure of the size), Furline rabbit dubbing,brown goose biots and 8/0 Uni Thread.

These were killers on the Farmington River in Ct.---John

cream%20beadhead%20pupa%202_zpson33flly.

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Simple bug,...but they work. I'd opt for a material other than biot tips to represent the broader profile of the pupa's prominent wing pads, though. Not sure what Orvis used on its commercial tie. Looks familiar but can't place it.

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Orvis uses a cdc feather butt end, with the fiber tied down along the stem like a Wally wing. It's kinda hard to put into words...

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04162Wcrm.jpg

 

use the biot but just tie it in by the tip

 

5_1.jpg

 

a narrow segment of turkey feather, duck quill, goose quill, swiss straw etc

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Another option is to tie it as a soft hackle which is what I do with all my nymphs and pupae. I'm at the KISS stage in tying them. One trick I've picked up when I started tying them this way rather than do a whip finish or half hitch to secure the stem behind the bead I make a couple of wraps behind the bead to secure the stem, trim it, then bring the thread over the bead head and make a couple of wraps in front of it then do my half hitch or whip finish.

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Another option to consider is Z-lon for the wing stubs. CDC will retain air bubbles and Z-lon will not. So in that case, I give the whole pattern a dusting of Frog's Fanny or a similar product to encase the entire fly in a bubble. That's an Ed Story trick (the guy who started Feather Craft).

 

http://www.charliesflyboxinc.com/flybox/print.cfm?parentID=77

 

 

PT/TB

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I revised my pattern. This is a #16 tied with a goose biot tip first. I also

selected larger biots to give it the "Wally" look? ---John

16%20beadhead%20cream%20caddis%20pupa%20

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