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Current Tags for This Pattern
/ Black / Brown / Brown Trout / crawdad / Crawfish / crayfish / Dubbing / egg / Flash / Foam / Krystal Flash / lead eye / marabou / rabbit strip / sili legs / smallmouth / Steelhead / Streamer / streaner / swiss straw /
Egg Sucking Crayfish AKA: The Cradle Robber
tied by Frank G. Swarner III
Fly Type: Attractor Pattern,
Target Species: Steelhead,
Recommended Region: Northeast US,
Hook: Tiemco 5263- Size 4 shown
Thread: Black or Brown 6/0 or stronger
Antennae: Krystal Flash
Egg: Glo-Bug Yarn or McFly Foam
Claws: Two Marabou tips or two Rabbit Strips
Feelers: Sili Legs
Eyes (optional): 30 lb mono
Carapace: Swiss Straw & Fly Fur
Legs: Patons "Allure" (from a craft store)
Weight: Barbell Style (medium)
Body: Angora Dubbing
Tying Instructions: Step 1:
Attach the thread near the midpoint of the hook.
Step 2: Antennae
Select 4 srands of krystal flash and attach them to the top of the hook shank. They should be 1 1/2 to 2 times the length of the hook shank. They will be trimmed to length after the fly is completed.
Step 3: Egg or Egg Cluster
Choose 1 full strand of your favorite colored Glo-Bug Yarn or McFly Foam and attach it to the top of the hook shank. The yarn should extend past the bend of the hook by 1 hook gap length. Notice where the yarn is attached to the hook shank. Stop at the midpoint of the hook and leave the front half of the hook bare. This will help to taper the body of the fly.
Step 4: The Claws
Select 1 rabbit strip that is about 1/8 of an inch wide and snip off two pieces that are about an 1 1/4" long. Trim some of the fibers off of the hide at the rear portion of each strip where they are to be tied onto the hook shank. Attach each strip to either side of the hook shank at the base of the egg and bind them very tightly.
Step 5: Feelers
Select 2 strands of rubber legs or sili strands and attach them to the top of the hook shank so they extend over the inside of each claw. The feelers should be as long as each claw.
Step 6: Carapace
Snip off one 3" strand of Swiss Straw and unfold it to smooth it out a little. Fold the piece in half against the grain to double the thickness. Next, fold the piece in half with the grain, and then fold it in half again. The result should be a flat strip 3/8" wide and 1 1/2" long.
Step 7: Carapace
Poke the hook through the center of the Swiss Straw and slide it over the hook point. Attach the Swiss Straw to the bottom of the hook shank. The bottom of the hook shank will become the top of the ESC. Some of the Swiss Straw should curl slightly over the side of the body.
Step 8: Carapace
Snip the Swiss Straw at a 45 degree angle to resemble the shape of the carapace.
Step 9: Shell/back
Select another strand of Swiss Straw that is about 4" long and unfold it to smooth it out. Fold the Swiss Straw in half parallel to the grain and fold it in half again. Attach the prepared piece of Swiss Straw to the bottom of the hook shank where the carapace is tied in.
Step 10: Legs
Select a 6" long strand of Allure (from a craft store) and attach it to the bottom of the hook shank where the Swiss Straw was just tied in.
Step 10a: Legs
Spin the material together to bind the two strands tighter together . Wrap the Allure forward without leaving any spaces. After each wrap fold the material to the rear to get it out of the way of the next wrap. Tie the material off at the midpoint of the hook and snip off the excess material
Step 10b: Legs
Trim the material off the top and the bottom of the hook shank.
Step 11: Coloring the Legs
Use a Brown permanent marker and place a few dots on the underside of the body and color the legs at the base, on the top and bottom.
Step 12: Shell/back
Fold the Swiss Straw over the top of the body and tie it off at the midpoint of the hook. Wrap forward over the Swiss Straw to help build/taper the body.
Step 13: Shell/back
Fold the Swiss Straw back and wrap over it with the thread. Stop at the midpoint of the hook.
Step 14: Wire & Weight
Attach a 4" strand of wire to the underside of the hook shank at the midpoint of the hook. Attach the barbell eyes to the top of the hook shank near the eye. Be sure to leave enough room for a few whip finishes when it is time to finish the fly.
Step 15: Body
With the thread at the rear of the barbell eyes apply some sticky dubbing wax to the thread. Place some strands of Angora Dubbing onto the thread. Do not spin the dubbing with your fingers, the wax should be sticky enough to hold the fibers to the thread. Spin your bobbin and watch the fibers wrap themselves around the thread. A dubbing loop can be used but it is not necessary.
Step 16: Body
Wrap the dubbing back over the body leaving no spaces. Stop at the midpoint of the hook, reverse direction, and wrap forward over the body. Add more dubbing if necessary. Stop behind the barbell eyes.
Step 17: Shell/back
Fold the Swiss Straw over the body and tie it off behind the barbell eyes. Snip off any excess material.
Step 18: Shell & Tail
Snip off a clump of Fly Fur and separate the "underfur" from the longer strands. Fold the base of the Fly Fur fibers around a bodkin to create small loops that resemble a tail. Pinch the fibers tightly and slide them off of the bodkin. Attach the fibers to the top of the shell with the smaller ends on the underside of the clump. The loops should extend over the eye of the hook.
Step 19: Wrappig the Wire
Wrap the wire over the rear portion of the body to give the effect of segments. Trap the Fly Fur to the top of the Swiss straw while wrapping the body.
Step 20: Almost Done
Finish the fly with a whip finish and coat the thread with head cement. Snip off two of the Krystal Flash antennae to half the length of the claws and leave the other two long.
Step 21: The Final Step
Fold the Fly Fur back away from the body and coat the Swiss Straw with Flex-Loc. Fold the Fly fur back into position and lightly press it into the Flex-Loc. Apply additional Flex-Loc to the top of the Fly Fur.
Presentation Tips: Upstream, Across Stream, and Downstream
Other Flies Tied by Frank G. Swarner III
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