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RexW

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Posts posted by RexW


  1. 15 hours ago, SBPatt said:

    Rex,

    My apologies; I didn’t see that you had posted one a few days ago. No need to chew the same food twice.

    Regards,
    Scott

    No need to apologize.  I love seeing how different tyers interpret the same pattern.  Your flies are always well done.

    Rex


  2. 1 hour ago, SBPatt said:

    Wiese’s Bob Hopper 2.0 (variation)

     

     

     

     

    Swinging back to the synthetic side.  Here’s his video if you’re interested; don’t have one of the fancy foam body cutters (unlike Walter, I don’t have 300 dozen of them to tie this season), but 3 seconds with scissors works well enough for the trout I’ll find.

    hook - Sierra 2312bl #10
    thread - Uni 6/0 tan 
    underbody - Starburst Dubbing tan 
    body/underwing/head - 2mm foam tan 
    wing - Congo Hair Shiner Tan 
    legs - medium rubber corn snake 
    indicator - 1mm foam orange 

    Regards,
    Scott

    Nice version!


  3. Bob Hopper 2.0
     
    Hook: Size 14 1xl nymph hook
    Underbody: Ice Dub dubbing
    Body: 2 mm foam in whatever color you want
    Wing: I used FTD's Congo Hair, but EP fiber or even deer hair works fine
    Legs: Your favorite material
    Indicator: The original uses a slip of bright foam, but I've found FTD's PIP material works extremely well as an indicator and the pink is easy to see.
      
    This Hopper pattern was developed by Yellowstone area guide Walter Weise. This is an easy to tie hopper pattern that catches more fish than the more complicated hopper patterns that I've tried. I've been fishing this pattern for at least 8 years and recently I noticed that Walter posted a new video online with some modifications to the pattern. He added the dubbed underbody and switched from a thin wire dry fly hook to using a nymph hook. After trying them, I like these modifications.
      
    Who would have thought to even tie a size 14 hopper pattern? But, it works very well! The color pink is popular in Yellowstone and I've found the Bluegill and bass like a blue/green version in Texas when those tiny Katydid looking green grasshoppers are active in the summer.
      
    This is a quick pattern to tie that catches fish.
     

    Bob1.jpg

    Bob2.jpg


  4. I've only been tying for 25 years or so, but this is the first time I've used synthetic hair.  The stuff is quick and easy to tie with, but I have a couple of questions for those of you with experience using this stuff.

     -  I used FTD's Congo Hair, because, well... it's cheap.  For those of you that have used both, how does Congo Hair compare to EP Fibers?

    -  Does anyone have any tips for getting a more natural looking taper with synthetic hair?  For the pattern below, it should be tapered to more of a minnow shape.  Most of my flies have a boxier look at the tips.  I tried trimming after it was tied on the fly and that didn't look very good either.  Natural hair can be stacked or can easily be adjusted in your fingers, but this stuff doesn't seem to move very easily.  Any suggestions for getting a tapered look at the tips when using synthetic hair?     

    Here's the fly that I was working with.  The taper of the one in front is closest to what I wanted to achieve.  The second from the left shows the "boxier" look that I don't want. 

    Vanek's Ghost Minnow (This is a surprisingly fast fly to tie.)

    Hook: Mustad 3366 size 8 (or Gamakatsu B10S)
    Thread: UTC 140, Gray Brown
    Eyes: Large Bead Chain Black 
    Back/Wing: FTD Congo Hair - Shiner Tan (Vanek uses EP Fiber in Gold Olive Minnow)
    Flash: Midge Flash, Pearl
    Belly: Senyo's Laser Dub - White
    Lateral Line: Silver Flashabou sub'ed for Lateral Scale Flash

     

    Ghost_0222.thumb.jpg.59cf302543ab3e683fdf9fa555ab0394.jpg


  5. Never made a conscious decision about it, but I don't think I have fished with a baitcaster rod in at least 10 years.  I do have one standing in the corner of my tying room that is ready to go, but I just never pick it up anymore.

    I made the switch to fishing with a fly rod due to a bad case of tennis elbow.  Trying to do a hook set with a regular bass rod was extremely painful, but I could do a strip set while fly fishing without an issue.   I think it took 6 months or more for my elbow to heal and by that point I was comfortable using a fly rod and never went back to convention rods.

     


  6. Still doing the work from home thing and I use the same desk for work and tying.   Fly tying used to be the break from work, but these days I need a break from that desk and I haven't been tying much. 

     

    I have been practicing my casting more though and my casting skills have improved over the past year.  So, my time hasn't been completely wasted.   :)


  7. 12 hours ago, niveker said:

    BTW, I thought polar bear hide was black.  Does that pigment come out in the tanning process?  Or am I misinformed?  

    There's a reference in the description about using a "stock photo".  So, that may not be a photo of polar bear hair.  


  8. Salarman and Bruce, thank you for the comments.  I think I am starting to understand tail length better.   I checked the photo with a ruler and it is more than double the gap.   I did not realize it was that long when I tied it.

    After looking at more photos of the veil feathers, it appears that they are tied so they lay more flat and across the top of the GP tail feather.   I have been trying to split the feather so it would lay on either side of the tail.   I've been trying to put in the wrong location.

    Thanks again.


  9. "Namsen"
    (Bates' recipe with substitutions.)
     
    Tag: Silver tinsel and yellow silk
    Tail: GP topping with red hackle fibers (still learning out how to add hackle without messing up the tail 🙁 )
    Butt: Black ostrich herl
    Body: Yellow, orange, red, and blue dubbing (sub'ed for seal and probably should not have used florescent colors 🙂 )
    Rib: Silver flat tinsel and gold oval tinsel
    Throat: Black hackle
    Wing: Yellow, blue, & red goose, plus two shades of turkey that were sub'ed for feathers that I don't own.
     
    Mistake on the wing with the blue overlapping the red. Surprisingly, it did exactly the same thing on both sides and both sides look identical. If the pattern used a JC eye, I think I could have hidden this mistake. Debated about adding a JC eye anyway to hide the mistake. 
     
    I still have a lot of work to do learning to do tails and wings correctly.
     
     

    IMG_7211a_bc.jpg


  10. "Namsen"
    (Bates' recipe with substitutions.)
     
    Tag: Silver tinsel and yellow silk
    Tail: GP topping with red hackle fibers (still learning out how to add hackle without messing up the tail 🙁 )
    Butt: Black ostrich herl
    Body: Yellow, orange, red, and blue dubbing (sub'ed for seal and probably should not have used florescent colors 🙂 )
    Rib: Silver flat tinsel and gold oval tinsel
    Throat: Black hackle
    Wing: Yellow, blue, & red goose, plus two shades of turkey that were sub'ed for feathers that I don't own.
     
    Mistake on the wing with the blue overlapping the red. Surprisingly, it did exactly the same thing on both sides and both sides look identical. If the pattern used a JC eye, I think I could have hidden this mistake. Debated about adding a JC eye anyway to hide the mistake. 
     
    I still have a lot of work to do learning to do tails and wings.
     
     

    IMG_7211a_bc.jpg

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