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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by sparkleminnow

  1. Could you pass along the source for those slotted cones?
  2. Not necessary to make them smaller for trout. I regularly use the sz 4 for rainbows over 20" in Missourri!
  3. Rubber legs on poppers are great for LM, SM, and bluegill, but...when it comes to striper, the reverse is true. I caught them on poppers that look like baitfish, but add rubber legs, and the stikes stopped almost altogether.
  4. You will probably want to scale down the size of the flies you throw. I go down from sz6 buggers to sz 12 jigletts. Jigletts are the name I give to a fly that I tie using a nothing more than a bead head ona size 12 wet fly hook. I tie in one, or two colors of marabou facing forward. Fold them back, and wrap them down, so there is a small collar of thread. It should look like a tiny hair jig. The marabou should not extend more than 1/8" beyond the bend of the hook. Many fish, this time of year, are prone to short striking, or relucant takes. With 4x tippet, they sink quite well. And, yes, I have caught...and AM catching...crappie at this time of year. Now, an important note, I'm fishing a power plant lake, so the water is close to 60 deg F. So, I'm not fishing through the ice.
  5. Though I can't explain it, they will take poppers. If you cast well ahead of them, as they are crusing, they will take floating poppers. I only know that when I cast about 30 ft ahead of them, while they were cruising, they would strike a topwater pattern. They would not hit it if you "popped" it, but they would take it if it were just very gently twitched. Color does not seem to be important.
  6. Bwoemerger's pic is very representative of the helgies in my streams, BUT all black works the best. :dunno:
  7. A sand colored Gotcha is hard to beat!
  8. Thought I already had on another thread. previous thread OK, so, I'll try again...
  9. Hey, I believe in complete answers, so here ya go. White Amur
  10. Basically.....anything that looks like a small poodle! Sz 4, or better.
  11. A few that have produced for me in the L.M. region... The black light pattern is epecially effective for kings. The pink is especially effective for coho, and browns. The pearl is effective for vitually everything that swims!
  12. OK, last Saturday was the fourth grass carp I caught in two years. I don't target them, intentionally, but I have learned a few things. *For one, they are very, very skittish. Many who have tried to catch them have found out first hand. *Two, if you want to try for them, you need to lead them by a considerable distance. *Three, they have some kind of strange fasination with topwater bass poppers, or torpedos. I do not know what that's about, but I have hooked them on three different topwater patterns. color, or size does not seem to mater. They just act like 1 year old kids. They just have to stick stuff in their mouths to find out what it is. Don't pop it, just twitch it a few times to kep their interest. Keep it moving, they can't stand it after a while. They just have to eat it! *Fourth, are you fishing still water, or moving water? The way you fish for them is different....just like trout in the two conditions fish differently. In moving water, I would suggest a dark olive fly designed like a "flesh-fly" for salmon in Alaska. You can't make them too big. The one I caught last Saturday was holding in the current, and a piece of moss the size of a softball, broke free from the bottm. It drifted in the direction of the Amur, but it was 6ft to it's right. (As facing upstream) The Amur immediately moved to the right, intercepted the weed, and began "chewing" on the clump of moss, for lack of a better descrption. It drifted downstream with the "weed" for what seemed like 30 yards. It was feeding the whole time. This creek is loaded with weed, and I have heard of many other grass carp being spotted in this water. I led this fish with several casts, but all I had was a pearl S.M. I drifted it to his left, and right, but not until I drifted it within inches of his nose did he take it. I was going to go after the dk. olive S.M. I had in my truck, but I thought if I did I might miss the only opportunity to take him. After some persistence, he took it. I do not recommend a pearl S.M., but I would suggest something that resembles the food source you observe them feeding on regularly. I have never seen them go after mulberries, but that is not to say that they would not. The mulberries comments I have seen on catching Grass Carp (I think) is more a carry-over from how to catch "common carp". Forget the name "Carp". They are still in the minnow family, but similarities aside, they do NOT feed the same way. Amur (Amur are in the Asian carp family) are both, more skittish and more agressive, than German carp. German carp are common carp...same thing. The common carp takes a fly, bait, lure, by what it feels looks like food. The Asian carp looks at food, and eats it, but... they will also strike out of aggression much more than the common carp will. Topwaters seem to really piss-off Amur. They strike like a bass trying to kill their prey! This is NOT done by droppinng a topwater ON their heads, but rather, trying to lead the fish, and let it drift to them (in moving water), or lay on a calm surface far enough ahead of them that they are not spooked by the ripples of the topwater popper landing on a calm surface. I caught one off of a bridge over Sugar Creek in Illinois. I was trying to catch smallmouth, but the Amur that came up behind it, tracked it, and ulimately slammed it was what I caught instead. Accidental catch, but I learn all I can from each of those accidental catches.
  13. Ummm...been there, done that. About....ten years ago. Also makes a great Coho fly in the great Lakes tribs.
  14. In my area, I'd give you $100 if you could catch one on a Yamamoto Hula Grub. For some reason fish can be very selective at times, and at other times they can be seemingly unaware of what the lure looks like. That said, I have found reallllly bad results with the Hula Grub in my waters. Tubes, on the other hand, have been unbeatable. Don't ask me to reason why. It's just the way it is... Twister tails have been good, and topwaters.....other than poppers....which also don't catch spit, here.
  15. No, dafack, the color Pearl Green & Olive is a single color. Spirit River offers this color in Lite Brite. They really should have come up with a better name, but that's what we get. I use a Damsel green marabou for the tail. Mind you, green doesn't mean "Green" It's almost a tan/olive color...again...another misnomer. However, the KF in the tail is correctly named....light olive! The whole dam thing should have been called light olive, but whatever. BTW, I used the pearl pattern in June, down there, and to my surprise it didn't perform very well. I did get a fish to hit it so hard that it popped 10lbs test...but that was all. All the rest came on the light olive, or the Black Light pattern. You really had to target shade, deep pools (right on the bottom), or in the riffles, though.
  16. It's not instantaneous. The fibers will eventually lay back. It happens over a period of anywhere from 10-30 minutes. It happens faster when you've taken a few with it. If you fish it as a streamer, in current, it takes on a more streamlined appearance faster. If you dead drift it, exclusively, it may take a bit longer. When it does, it will look more like a bassassasin. I just like the "fluffy" look right out of the vise. After sitting in the Plano box for months, they never look like anything but a mess. No matter. they look good in the water after a couple casts. A friend of mine went down to visit his uncle in Lexinton, and we drove to Fredricksburg to fish the Elkhorn. The fish were tough, but I think we just needed a little more time to pick them apart. Every flow is different. They seemed to prefer the black light pattern in shaded areas, and the Pearl Green & Olive dead drifted in the sunny areas.
  17. It doesn't much matter if you fold the hair back, or not. The hair should lay back when wet, anyway. If not, you tied it too full. Too sparse, and it will get shredded in no time. Too full, and it will be like a bottle brush. If you tend to tie it too full, you may as well use Estaz. The body hair has to breathe in the water. I have also tried virtually every concievable color combo that you can tie. I had settled on Pearl Gold Angel Hair, as the other shades of pearl were far less productive. I also had no increase in success with a red collar. In the case of wipers, that I fish for regularly, it actually reduced my catch rate by over 50%! I did not notice an increase in catch rate on any other species for adding the red behind the bead, so I stayed with all pearl. More universally acceptible. For you guys fishing the Elkhorn, in KY, the Black Light, and Pearl Green & Olive (Lite Brite) colors were the best when I was there. Rainbows like 'em too.
  18. I'm planning a crawdad pattern. I need to locate the materials, though. After I've tested a few I'll report on it, of course.
  19. Shhhhh...I was working on the crankbait version, next. No, I have not tried a sinking line to pull it under the surface, but 90% of the water I fish is 2-3 ft deep. I only have sinking line for my 10wt, for striper. I have a sinking Air-Flo Poly Leader, however, I just never did well with the sinking leader/floating fly. For some reason it's just more of a pain than it's worth. Maybe it's that the fly is heavy enough, but add a sinking leader, and it's downright dangerous to cast! Nah....I ain't gonna mess with it. Topwater blow-ups are all the fun I can handle!
  20. Well, as luck would have it, I took it out today to try it on the water. Yes, you can walk-the-dog with it. As with spinning equipment, though, it takes some practice to get it to work. It shouldn't take too long to figure it out, though. Also, I was using my 6wt. While it didn't cast like a sz8 wooley bugger, it was manageable. I'll have my hands full making enough of both designs for this summer.
  21. I would have to believe that with the petroleum distillates in automotive paint, there would be a caustic reaction with foam. Just a guess. Anyway, next up....the flyrod Zara Puppy....
  22. Well, thanks, but...uhhh, I wasn't done yet. To color the body (we'll use the baby bass as an example) you will need a dark olive marker, a black marker, and a green highlighter. OK...here's where it gets reaaallly tricky!! You have to work with the marker ink quickly, as it only has a working time of about 60 seconds!!! Mark the back of the body with the dark olive...about 1/4" across the back to 1/8" at the tail. Quickly mark the sides with the chartreuse marker, leaving enough for the white belly of a bass. Remember, we're on the clock, here! NOW, take a sanding sponge, 150 grit, and smear the dark olive into the chartreuse. The dark will blend into the lighter chartreuse, but you want to mix the olive with all of the chartreuse...not just the top portion. Otherwise, it will be much more pale than you will like when you are finished...i.e.- after you have already coated it! It might look good in your hand, but if you don't blend it all the way down into the chartreuse, it will be too pale. If you find that it seems to not be dragging enough dark olive into the chartreuse, add more of the dark olive marker to the back. Then try blending it down, again. This gets rid of the ugly parting line of two colors, and will look air-brushed if you do it right. Set it down for a few minutes to let the colors take a set. You might want to wash your hands, as you do not want to get colored finger prints on the white belly. BTW, I do all of this out of the vise. OK, we need to add a bit more realism. With the lightest touch you have, add a gill plate with a fine tipped olive marker. From there, make a straight line of fine dots from the back of the gill plate to the tail. You can then use this as a guide to make the dark, jagged line on a bass' lateral line. You can use dark olive to do this, if you like, or black. I've caught bass that were marked both ways. You can further blend the darker olive into the (now) lighter olive by making tiny dots along the now faint parting line between the dark & light colors. Don't get carried away. A few will do ya. You can make the "war paint" stipes on the bass' cheeks with either black, or olive. Practice makes perfect. Mix Flex-Coat rod finish according to the directions, coat the body. Be sure to get complete coverage. I place it in the vise with the mixing cup beneath it to catch what drips off. When it takes longer than 30 seconds to get one drip off of the body, I place it on the drying wheel. I use the alligator clips soldered to a large needle, and stick that in the foam wheel. Be sure that the drying motor is perfectly level, or the flex-coat will slide to the eye, or the tail. Neither is a good thing! If you get some in the tail prop, you will have to spend a good bit of time picking it all out with a bodkin and/or a small knife! If you get it in the eye...well, you will almost certainly mess up the looks of the fly by having to cut the coating & gut the eye to clear it. That's why it's best to not use too much coating. After the coating is dry, add the double hook (available from Stamina Tackle). Wrap thread down the shank, and coat with ZAG. Add a white tail feather, and a grizzley dyed olive barred feather over that. Wrap a head on the double hook & ZAG the thread. I'll add a better pic of the baby bass later.
  23. Now, we move on to the eyes. When I used to make them uncoated, I would use domed eyes. I think the tape eyes would cost less, be lighter, and I could make the eye sockets shallower. I use a sping-loaded clothes pin(clip) to center the eyes. You can see if both sides are even, and that the eyes are at right angles to the hook bend before boring the eye socket. The pink stone is the large chain saw shapening stone for the Dremel tool; easily avaiable at any hardware store. It is exactly the same size as the 7/32" eyes. Use a fairly high speed for sinking the eye sockets, but be careful. You might cut deeper than you want to if you are cutting at a speed that is too fast. Too, slow, and you will leave a large nipple in the center that you will need to cut out with your scissors. As an aside, you could speed things up, and not buy the stone to grind eye sockets. Just stick tape eyes on the body, and use a spring type clothes pin to maintain pressure against the eyes until they are fully secure on the body. When coated, they aren't going to go anywhere.
  24. You will now have a gap in the belly of the body. You have to seal it shut with Zap-a-Gap. You want to spread the body, and using the long-reach tip supplied with Zap-a-Gap, place a drop or two inside under the wire form. Make sure the wire form is still seated properly, and seal the nose area. Use your fingers to hold the two sides together to be sure the glue holds before moving on. Place another drop of ZAG behind the weed-guard and work it towards the hook bend. If any excess seeps out of the gap, use a Q-tip to soak it up. hold in place until the ZAG takes hold. It should take between 10-30 seconds to do this. Now, do the same to the tail section. Be sure not to let excess get into the propeller blade!
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