Jump to content
Fly Tying

Carl Z

core_group_3
  • Content Count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Carl Z

  1. Have you tried gently heating the epoxy (is it the resin or the hardener that has the bubbles, I glossed over that in the original post)? I start with hot tap water and drop the bottle in. If that doesn't help, I bring water up to boiling and take it off and then drop the epoxy bottle in. Some sloooow rolling of the bottle while the epoxy is warm may help. You are trying to reduce the viscosity of the material so the bubbles rise to the surface. The laying out the epoxy on aluminum foil and using a slight heat source below it will also help (as long as the heat source is not hot enough to form bubbles). spreading the epoxy out reduces the distance a bubble has to rise before it pops. Thinning the epoxy also helps, but it completely changes the character of the epoxy when it goes on. Good luck.
  2. FWIW, I just ordered a solarez trial pack and an ultra-fire rechargable UV light. The total is under $30 and I'm sure I will end up getting other UV cure resins but this was a way to get started.
  3. Kimo, Is that chart relatively up to date with prices and offerings? I saw the site, but wasn't sure how valid it still was. I really appreciate the work you put into that. As for lights, has anyone tried one of the cheap UV lazers that are around? I've heard good things about them. My initial use will be coating popper bodies, and while it may be expensive, it will get used a lot more than epoxy for these. I was tempted to go with solarez thin and flex and get a decent light. Are there any thoughts on lights that cure the common resins fast. I know they all have their "custom light" but if there is probably a decent overlap.
  4. I am ready to take the plunge into UV curable resin's and I'm confused. There are a bunch of survey articles and blog posts but most seem to be at least 4 years old which seems like a long time for a new material. Is there advise for the easiest/most economical way to get started? I expect to be using the resin to seal the eyes and heads on baitfish, for coating poppers and then for other things which I am sure will come along. I don't want to be investing in equipment I know I will outgrow (cheap curing lights, ...) and I am really wondering if there is some accepted, conventional wisdom about getting started with UV curable resin's. Thanks, Carl
  5. SDR PVC comes in 21, 26 and 32 if I remember. The lower the number the stronger and heavier, but 21 is still a lot lighter than schedule 40. It is not rated for house use and is sometimes called low pressure pvc. It is used heavily in irrigation. If you live out west (in the dry places) your local hardware store may carry it. Here in Washington DC, the only place I can find it is an irrigation supply house, specifically a supply house for sprinkler systems. You might try searching for places that carry Toro or Rainbird sprinkler heads and try there. I was recently in WV and the local Lowes had it up to 1&1/4" so I stocked up. It made for an awkward trip home, but it is so much nicer for rod tubes. Shedule 32 is really light and not nearly as crush resistant as the other two, but if I could find some I would use it for a lot of my generic PVC tubing or for a pvc tube to protect my metal tubes.
  6. Also, find a local fly fishing club or casting instructor. Sometimes some fly shops run quick clinics.
  7. Great camera work. Too often you see the focus go in and out. I like the blue background, but I would try to get a background that also covers the desk and doesn't have the vertical line in it. The eyes seemed a bit crooked throughout the tie. Just a bit off, but before putting something up publicly, I like perfection. I would end with a repeat of the material and information on yourself. Looks good. I also viewed on mute. If you aren't speaking directions, then this is basically a pattern video and maybe figure out how to speed it up. I really like it, but am offering constructive criticism. Don't take these things as big flaws.
  8. You're going to fish that? I thought it was going under glass.
  9. I've been using a Rainy's bobbin threader for years and they are fantastic. My only problem is it is yet another gaget to loose on the bench.
  10. It's funny. with my normal fly tying scissors, I keep them in my hand. With WISS snips I put them down (they are too pointy) It took a little getting used to keep my scissors in my hand. I have a pair that likes to fall open. I keep them on my thumb, but the other end drops down. It took me a bit to avoid feeling like I was going to poke myself. Also, I use the closed tip of my scissors to lower the thread down to the eye if I am whip finishing by hand. It allows me to whip finish 6/0 by hand for patterns without a lot of hackle to get in the way. Carl
  11. The Purple masterpiece is more impressive in real life. That thing is HUGE. All of these are really impressive. You all are inspiring me to tie bigger and better. Carl
  12. I got the idea from an intermediate source, but I believe Rich actually developed this technique. (I didn't know this until I sent him the flies) The legs are Paton's Bohemian yarn and a flame is used to singe the end and taper it to a point. The frog thigh is actually created by tying in the leg and then wrapping more chenille over the leg to bulk it up. They are actually a lot of fun to tie but they needed a wider gap hook than I tied these on. I have also used this technique to tie crayfish where the claws are the tapered chenille. I experimented with trying put front, chenille arms on the frog, but it ended up looking like a green chicken. Carl
  13. Google centerpin fishing. Or you can visit http://www.floatfishingconnection.com/ I'm not affiliated, but Infinity Rod Creations often posts rods on the rod builders forum. I haven't done any of this yet, but I have a 11.5 ft spey rod blank that I am building as a combo float rod/spey rod. Carl
  14. Canada issues aside, I don't know how well it worked, but I found a crystal light container fits in an envelope fairly well. A mailing tube would also work, but I don't know if you can mail a mailing tube without going to the post office. The vcr case sounded intriguing. I had an old comuter tape (tape backup) case that I have used to store clousers, but it was a little thin to store bulkier flies. Carl
  15. Carl Z

    carp?

    2/0 Trebble hook. Just strip really fast past them.
  16. Magnum is actually shorter than the standard and is a bit under 3" but about 3" and 4" is about right. For starting out I would get one of each. I have a bunch of other bobbins, but I end up swaping to one of the ceramic tipped bobbins most of the time. I doesn't take that long to swap spools, so you really don't need more than one bobbin (ok, maybe two), but if you spend a lot of time tying, you will end up with quite a few more. I haven't used the full ceramic bobbins. A long time ago, they were prone to breaking, but I haven't kept up. I have all the bobbins I need for now. Carl
  17. It all comes down to what do you want to spend? You can do fine with an AA vise from J.Stockard. if your just starting out. And spend most of your money on tools and materials.. When you progress, than get a better vise. For trout flies on moving water, you will be tying size 12-20. I would say that the bulk of your flies will be size 16. Save your money on tools and buy some nice saddle hackle in size 14/16. (and hooks) I agree that the AA vise is a good starting point. You can always use it as a travel vise after you drop some money on a better vise. I suggest for tools 2 griffin ceramic tip bobbins (maybe a magnum and a standard). 1 pair of good fly tying scissors (Maybe even two. I like wiss snips, but they should be sharp and have a sharp/pointed tip) 1 bodkin (with a half hitch tool built in to the handle) 1 bobbin threader (I like Rainey's) 1 whip finish tool (I prefer matterelli style) 1 brass/metal hair stacker Maybe a hackle pliers would be nice, but I don't think it is a necessity. I think that this is the set of tools that you need to get started and I would invest in good quality bobbins, scissors and a good whip finish tool. These are the basics that you will use all of the time. I also think a good vise would be nice, but you might want to see how much you like tying before investing in a good vise, since you might want to spend over $150 just in the vise. Carl
  18. Rich, Thanks for the PM. I didn't realize that you had counted me in. I have mine almost tied up. Now I just have to find a good box for shipping. These things are going to be monsters. I hope I am not holding up the swap. Carl
  19. If you are tying small nymphs, I doubt you will notice anything. You will be wrapping them like you do hackle and what you end up seeing are the fibers. If they were cheap, there was probably a reason they were cheap, but pheasant tails usually arn't very expensive to begin with. In areas that they are hunted, you can usually find someone who can collect them for you. Carl
  20. Not exactly challenging, but a white marabou on a lead head jig works great. White or black buggers work too, but I've had better luck with white than black. The problem with the jig is that you really have to be careful casting it.
  21. Looking at the fly, I agree that it is probably an egg yarn, but probably tied on to mono, or even glued on to mono and trimmed to the corn shape. Rainy is a genius at combining common techniques into distinctive flies (which can be commercially tied). IMO, this looks more like a fly to catch fishermen than fish. Carl
  22. The largest hook I can find on my bench is a 2. I know I bought some 2/0's, but I can't seem to find them. I was looking forward to tying a froggy bugger. Carl
  23. Let me just chime in on suggestions. I have enough Whitting Saddle hackle in size 16-22 to last me a life time. I picked up some grade 1 feathers that were exactly what I needed when I was tying small dries in Utah. I now live in Maryland and fish the Potomac for Bass. All these feathers are ageing in my supply box right now. Saddle is **FANTASTIC** if you are tying a lot of the same size flies. If you are tying different sizes all the time, go with a neck. Also, a full saddle is a big investment a half saddle in two sizes would also make a lot of sense. I would accumulate the feathers for the files you are going to tie in the near future, and maybe get a neck or two in common colors so you you can tie a range of dries if you want to. Then, when you have stripped the neck bare of the sizes that you usually tie (you will actually get a band on your neck where you have pulled out all the feathers of that size), invest in a saddle for that size. This is my new philosophy in feather buying. Now that I am tying bass flies, I find I have to spend a lot more on hooks, and there are a lot of different styles. For trout flies, you really need only a few types of hooks (in quite a few sizes, but standard dry fly, nymph and 3xl nymph will tie most trout flies) I guess I am saying, don't over invest in feathers, there are a lot of other things you need to tie flies.
×
×
  • Create New...