Jump to content
Fly Tying

Will Milne

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Will Milne

  1. Odd I get a dialog box opening asking for a username/password etc for "pictutres @ www. xxxxxxxx" when I open this thread. Anyone else? Will
  2. Ty for all the encouraging words !!! It is really appreciated. Letumgo- tried a couple on water this time ,might have to figure out how to work from underneath - and I,m running out of interesting looking flies to photograph, so I may have to get back to the vise. Will
  3. I love the image of the rod rings and ice:))) Brings back fond and cold memories:) Will
  4. I love the way you have gone from close/mid and far wide , it gives a great sense of place. Will
  5. Hi Having read that fish perhaps see a dark silhouette from below , I thought I'd have a go at simulating that. Will
  6. Will Milne


    AL- I would have to agree with Peter that your 12mp should be able to supply final images that far out resolve/etc a 3mp. If the lenses you have on the 12mp are of suffient quality to match the cameras capabilities. Many higher end DSLR files can look very soft right out of the camera. They assume that the photographer wants total control over the resultant image and therefore the internal processing is often minimal compared to a more consumer grade camera. Have you checked out the setup in the menu system to see if there some settings that might cause the probs your seeing? Like sharpness at minus3 etc etc . Post a pic and maybe someone could suggest what may be going on. Will
  7. FlyTyingPhotographer- Looking forward to seeing the results from your new purchase Will
  8. quote-"I just assumed that anything I post on a forum they sponsor they could use" - Nope/Nada/Nay - he said trying to remember the registration agreement:) If that were the case you would see lots more sponsors paying the fee on well used and quality boards and simply lifting what they want at a cut rate price. Will
  9. Graham- I think as a producer of a product ie - photographs you have every right to assert your ownership over your images and their use. I think it gets sticky ( not a lawyer here) when you bump up against the "public domain " concept. My own first reaction would be to contact the author , identify yourself as the image/s producer and point out that his actions were inapproriate . If nothing else , he would be aware you have a concern and second if no response was forthcoming, would show a lawyer you had at least tried to resolve things civily without any luck. If you do get a response , then go from there. hope it works out , in the meantime we want more pictures:) Will
  10. Graham -ty- It's been fun playing around with various ways to do this stuff- obviously each approach has it's advantages and disadvantages. So that has been usefull on a personal level to try and sort that out. FKROW- That bracket was assembled from bits and peices of lighting accesories- there are a couple of of commercially available ones that would do the same thing, though I have not tried them- still testing the waters here , trying to see if the one I have is versatile enough to do or if a commercial one has advantages that would be usefull. Kirk Macro Flash Bracket- http://www.kirkphoto.com/brackets.html Wimberley Bracket System- http://www.tripodhead.com/products/flash-b...ro-brackets.cfm There are obviously many more out there- but those two seem to be favoured by folks doing macro flash in a big way. The Flex arm is made from from an auto flex mirror tool- I cut off the mirror and handle and epoxied a little clamp onto the end. The mirror tool was about $10.00. Borrowed the idea from here- http://www.tripodhead.com/products/plamp-main.cfm The reflectors are just 1/16 th" plastic with Strathmore Chromolux Mirri ( paper backed shiny mylar I think) contact cemented to the face. Hope that helps. Will
  11. Thought I would try the light tent approach since Ashby has mentioned it a couple of times- ISO 100 /f32/2- SB26 flashes on full manual and the box is the same as this one without the flash holder thingy , I just put mine on a stand and bracket so they could me moved around more easily- http://www.naturescapes.net/042006/wh0406.htm Total box cost approx $20.00 CDN I,m sure with reflectors/gobos added you could modify the look a bit- it is very soft and even looking to me, maybe thats good. Will
  12. Lol John Since I could not live with either the guilt or thought of you loosing such an important peice of your anatomy- here is the rig I used.)) Ty all for the encouraging words. Ashby- no tent. Graham - I,m not sure what accounts for the apparant falloff in the Epheron Album ( white fly ) image but no the underlay is flat on both images. Here is the rig- and it is basically a hand holdable version of the same lighting rig I had going in this thread - http://www.flytyingforum.com/index.php?showtopic=30342 In that set of images I used an Umbrella reflected flash with a reflector disc to add the fill. This time I have flash on a bracket and a Lumiquest Big Bounce Diffuser attached. The fill is provided by the card attatched to the flex arm. I made white/gold and siolver cards. It looks heavy but in fact is very light. This image was done at ISO 100/f16/TTL commander/sb600 in TTL slave mode with +0.7 compensation. Hand held. The advantage of this rig is that it gives a nice angled light and you can work the mage composition very fast versus having to move/adjust a tripod and light stand/disc reflector. Hope all that made sense:) Will
  13. Those are really excellent images- great to see someone playing:)) Will
  14. Hi Thought I would have a go at building a fully portable hand holdable macro flash setup . Mainly to photograph insects for a project. Couple of tests- hand held camera approx 90 % of original capture ie- 10% crop. Mostly worried about highlights and shadows. No natural light involved. and Curious if these look passable? Will
  15. Will Milne


    Graham- that'll be cool to see the pic of the pic on a billboard. Congrats on the sale and ignore the good natured foolery:) Another way of doing the image provide, is to request FTP access to their server and transfer to there. I have dealt with a mag. that does just that for it's contributers. It saves the traffic in large tiffs on your own account if bandwidth is a concern. I know my ( Canadian) bank does'nt charge me 7% for wire transfers , maybe you could save the Western Union fee in the future with a seperate account that provides free transfers. Just a thought. Will
  16. Will Milne


    Quote- "it sold for quite a bit more than $1000, several times more" I sense a flood of egret shots is about to happen:))) I went to Toys R Us and they were all out of stuffed ones- I figured with some photoshopping it may have worked. Ah well I guess I'm stuck taking seagull shots and stretching them vertically and adding some blur:)))) Will
  17. John We have the same process/approach though I use Silkypix as my RAW convertor. Maybe a diff. between the Canon histograms and the Nikon. I quite often find even though I'm jammed as far to right as I dare , there is still some "room" left when I look at the RAW files in the convertor. Are you using a Better Beamer/equiv. on the flash? I have a Nikon 300 mm f2.8 I use as a landscape lens and a little fill would often be handy. So I was considering a fresnel equipped snoot and thought you may have some experience with them? Will
  18. AL What you are describing is pretty much a given with digital. LCD screen images wil look brighter/snappier than the downloaded image. If you work in RAW format the difference is even more startling:). The fix is ....... Use the LCD image to judge composition and nothing else. Use the Histograms to judge exposure . Just like film you really have to think of the digital file as a first step , that requires in the case of film- interpretation of the negative as it makes the transition to paper through wet chemistry. In the case of digital the same applies, through image editing software , as the file makes the transition to web image/print etc. Will
  19. John- I've always been hugely impressed with your bird pics - I happen to think you seem to have a developed or natural talent for capturing "attitude/character" that you don't see in a lot of other bird work. What strikes me about these ones is the depth of tone and colour , given the flat light. Do you adjust in cam for the lighting? or are the adjustments to open things up done in post? If you care to share. Will
  20. Will Milne


    Hi Personally I think right now the D200 ( down 400.00 CDN compared to when I bought mine) is a tremendous buy, with the price drop that has occured since the D300 arrival. Compared to a D80 you would get a more solid and featured body . a bit of a simple comparison here- http://www.dustylens.com/d200_vs_d80.htm I have a D200 and have looked at the D300. If I were doing bird/fast action/sports etc. I would probably get one. It has a more sophisticated AF system than the D200 and ever so slightly better noise at high ISO which in those areas of photography are very usefull. For everything I do/am interested in- the d200 is a very solid and full featured cam. I am considering getting a second one before they all go. Will
  21. Hi Macro like most other fields in photography is pretty broad in terms of what you can do/get interested in. John is right on regarding working distance and repro ratio. Many macro lenses are really just close focusing lenses. Checking for 1:1 capability is important . Working distance needs depend on what you want to do in macro. If it is insects , the more working distance you have the better, generally. Working distance becomes very important if/when you want to start using additional light sources. If you go with the usual , two or more flashes on brackets setup , there are quite a few options and shorter focal lengths - 50/60 ish all get the job done. Bear in mind the shorter focal lengths tend to be cheaper but there is the added cost of a multi head flash system. Most often folks doing hand held /hard core bug photography go that route. Two reasons mainly- you need to stop down the lens as far as possible to generate suffient depth of field and without flash as the illumination the shutter speeds would be prohibitively slow and second it allows you to generate your own lighting look ( within reason) irrespective of the ambient lighting conditions. So the flash/es become the sole source of illumination. If you go a slightly different route - preferring to use a combo of flash and ambient light with a tripod mounted camera- my own preference - then having a good amount of working distance to allow the flash to be used as fill , becomes desirable. In the field I use a hand held flash with either a diffuser attached ( the flash is triggered remotely by the on camera popup flash on my nikon) or the same hand held flash fired through a diffuser panel mounted on a flexible arm to hold it in position ( I like the 5in1 Interfit - it gives gold/silver/white and black reflectors or a translucent diffuser all in one small package) . With this setup I can easily move the flash around without being wired to the cam and hold it in any position, I like to get the fill I want from any angle on the fly. I love digital instant feedback makes it all the more fun. With this setup- a large working distance means a far greater set of options of where the flash can be without the lens interfering. Tripods- get one that allows the legs to lay as flat as possible, in other words goes as low as possible. Cut the center post off as short as possible!! .I like the Slik AMT pro 550, light and solid enough at a reasonable price. Get a Manfrotto or similar super clamp and when needed you can attach your tripod head to it and attach the clamp to anywhere on your tripod legs to give you added flexibility. The super clamp is also what holds the arm for the disc/or flash if you want the flash fixed in position. You will be manually focusing- AF is useless for macro- so an eyepeice magnifier is almost a must. A good shutter release is a neccessity- you want to be working with mirror-up. Hope some of that made sense. Will
  22. Ty all for the encouaraging words. I was back out yesterday camera in hand and once again found the Owl. Did'nt take a single image!!. What a scene. There was the Owl and somewhere between 10-15 Crows bombing/sqwauking/ landing in the tree around it.....Aieeeee. What was strange was that the Owl just sat there and watched them, though it did look stressed.. swiveling it's head around to keep an eye on the Crows and me. I decided to back away and watch from a distance as I was obviously contributing to the Owl's stress level without need. The owl rather than fly off, jump/flew from one branch to another , keeping an eye on the Crows... I stayed for about half an hour. I got a real sense that at some point if one of the Crows had gotten close enough , it would have been lunch!!!! Hopefully the Owl is staying around as this is only 2 minutes walk from my house. I,m heading out tonight , hopefully to see it hunt. Will
  23. Tangler- Welcome:) You have some wonderfull images there - drop in often and share some more. Since I can't swim I had to look at the kayaking images peeking at them with my peripheral vision:))) Graham- well done on the egret image - I suspect if you sorted through your work and did some hard edits, set up a dedicated site - that might happen even more often- you have some tremedous stuff. Will
  24. See what you've done!!!- went out for a walk and stumbled upon this fellow by my house. Too bad the light wa s so soft. A Great Horned I think?. Will
  • Create New...