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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by redietz

  1. From a conversation I had with him at a show, Mr Wulff tied all the Wulff style patterns with a single upright wing when he was tying for himself. The split wing was only because customers wanted it -- it didn't add to the effectiveness of the fly. At the same show, he demonstrated tying a size 28 Royal Wulff without benefit of a vise.
  2. Although there is a lot of good information in that video, there are a few caveats: 1) His explanation of "denier" is wrong. "Denier" is the weight, in grams, of 9000 meters of the thread. So, although it is a real standard, it doesn't really tell you any more about the thickness of the thread than the "aught" system. For any one line of thread from the same manufacturer, 70d is going to be finer than 280d and 8/0 is going to be finer than 6/0, neither tells you much about the relative diameters of thread from different makers, or even different threads from the same maker. 2) What he says about the thread tightening with each wrap, that's only true if the wraps are in clockwise direction when viewed from the hook eye. For a right handed tyer, that's the conventional direction (over and away). If you wrap in the unconventional direction (over and toward you) or tie left handed and wrap over and away, you're untwisting most threads. Of course, once it's completely untwisted, you start twisting in the other direction. 3) Silk threads such as Pearsall's (now Morus) are twisted in the opposite direction than most synthetic thread, so wrapping in the conventional direction for a right hander will untwist the thread rather than tighten it. Also, you need spin the bobbin in the opposite direction to flatten/tighten the thread than he tells you to in the video. Still, it's a very good video.
  3. Yeah. I've often wondered how the guy felt about watching that over and over for decades.
  4. I thought that was pretty clear. The conclusions only apply to a fly with the leader in a vertical position. I don't think he should have used the phrase "dead drifted" at the beginning of the clip, though. The result would probably have been quite different if he had shown what the fly would have looked like when fished from a sink tip line, or even if there had been heavy shot in front of fly.
  5. You've been at that for while. Nicely done!
  6. redietz


    Correct. And Charlaine, who administers the site had her house destroyed in the California forest fires last year, and hasn't been very active. The site is just about dead; only one or two posts per week. It's a shame.
  7. I believe it's still the largest chapter in the country.
  8. There is a time when it's not fishing season?
  9. Very nice. I like that it includes the whole neck and back of head. There are some very nice, smaller feathers there and I've gotten some from distributors like Nature Spirit that are chopped off at the shoulders.
  10. I believe that all of the suggested substitutes are legal here.
  11. I highly recommend this for both pheasant tail and for peacock herl. Don't give up on the hackle pliers. The kind I've found that works best for this particular use is the kind with a rubber pad on one jaw and a brass plate on the other. (Google "non skid hackle pliers.) If for some reason they're still slipping, a bit of dubbing wax will fix that. Give the fibers a couple of twists before wrapping (not so tight as to break the fibers, but tight enough that they stay together. You're far less likely to break the fibers that way if you graze the hook point.
  12. Yep. I've caught on a bare hook before as well. None of those ways are really my first choice, though.
  13. In fact, I caught several the other day on a grouse and peacock on which all the feather barbules had worn off. Just the peacock worked.
  14. The P&O is about the only fly I fish for most spinner falls anymore. Spinners sink eventually. The Partridge and Herl is an excellent egg laying stone fly; as well as a beetle. If I wanted to fish a nymph rather than a cripple, I'd fish a nymph.
  15. The general rule is that less than half the hook length is too short and more than one and a half times the hook length is too long. If you look at my avatar, it's a Orange Partridge (aka Partridge and Orange) from North Country Flies, one of the two defining books on the subject. Pritt could have drawn to any length he wanted, since it's painting, not a photo. That's the length he considered ideal. There is modern fad toward shorter hackles, which I find inexplicable, if you consider that the hackle represents wings, not legs. The fly in Dallasblues' photo is just about right. And that fly will do especially well around this time of year where I live.
  16. It's available. It's just called Morus silk now (and costs more than when it was called Pearsall's.) Morus Silk Thread The colors are the same numbers as Pearsall's. 6a is the traditional color for a Partridge and Orange.
  17. Silk thread is the traditional body, not floss.
  18. Turle loops are one case (and I still use the knot from time to time, it's not just for skating or maybe you meant a riffle hitch) where shape matters, but there are a few others. If you're to tie a Thunder Creek style streamer, or if you're going to be pushing a hook eye through a popper body, you need a straight eye. And jig style nymphs need a jig hook. Loop eyes on salmon irons add weight. Other than those few exceptions, I agree. It doesn't matter except for aesthetics.
  19. There's a whole ten page long thread on it over there, mostly negative. Sunray fly lines
  20. redietz

    Al's Rat

    Reminds me that I haven't fished the Little Lehigh in a few of years. I need to go.
  21. I think most Christmas tree nowadays is mylar. I particularly like the red stuff. I've used it for years.
  22. Ultimately, they all swim to the surface. The White Fly (Ephoron leukon) is strictly a burrower until that time. I'm not sure about Eastern Green Drake, but I don't see many nymph imitations.
  23. I agree. I tie most of my soft hackles on either standard wire or light wire hooks. I usually want them either in the film, or no more than a few inches deep. On those rare occasions (usually in winter) when I want them any deeper, I'll either switch to a poly leader, add shot or put a weighted fly on point.
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