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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by PENZZZ

  1. Shoulder surgery is not a piece of cake, but the benefits from having it done are significant. My left shoulder wasn’t too bad when I had my right one done, but when it degraded further I went in and had it done - no hesitation. And now both shoulders are great despite numerous complications in each. Fortunately I had great range of motion going into the surgeries and through the use of a great physical therapy team range of motion in both shoulders is great. Only your surgeon, with good MRI scans and an overall understanding of other health factors, can tell you what the outcome of surgery may be. For example, if muscle is torn from bone for too long reestablishment of blood supply could be difficult. Jeff

    First Car

    1949 Plymouth sedan, flathead six. Three on the tree. Slept eight people.... Ha!
  3. Each winter I tie several “experimental” patterns for hatches I’ll encounter in the upcoming season. That isn’t what bugs me. During the season I fish the experimental patterns and find one to be very effective. That isn’t what bugs me. With this newfound success I return to the vise to tie some more, and after some evaluation decide the pattern might be more effective if I change this or that. That isn’t what bugs me. The next season I eagerly tie the new pattern to my leader - to find not a single trout is interested in the fly. THAT is what bugs me!!!!
  4. Sorry StoneFlyTyer, I havent logged in recently and dont receive notifications (forgot to check the box). I bore the wood blank, then mount onto a steel mandrel to turn. That hardware skeleton is from REC, nickel silver. Hope this helps. Jeff
  5. Inadvertently put a stabilized reel seat into a wet rod bag overnight, let me know how deeply the sliding ring embeds itself into the wood. Mine took 24 hours to release the ring. Or, weigh a stabilized insert then place it into a glass of water overnight. Then, weigh it in the morning. Stabilization doesn't replace the wood, only the air. Jeff
  6. Michael, Wood stabilization is something I don't do myself, though there are numerous home-brew methods. Usually entails placing the wood piece into a fluid stabilization medium inside a vacuum chamber. The vacuum pulls the air out of the wood, and then allows the medium to flow into the voids in the wood. Do a quick search and you'll find numerous mediums, one of which is Plexiglas pieces melted in Acetone. I've read a number of claims that stabilized reel seat inserts do not require any type of finish applied to them - just a thorough polishing on the lathe. In my experience stabilized inserts require a protective finish. The wood is still there even if a stabilization medium is sucked into the wood - the insert will still absorb moisture because it's still wood. It has happened to me... As for what wood from the rest of a California Buckeye tree looks like, I've never looked that up. Yeah, turning is great. You don't know what you're going to get until the character of the wood emerges as you turn away what you don't need. Jeff
  7. The wood is California Buckeye Burl, which is what I would call a "punky" wood, very light and prone to exploding at the lathe if not stabilized. Years ago I purchased several blanks and had them stabilized, which fortified the wood considerably. If not stabilized the wood drinks in finish. I've seen CBB in many color variations - the one pictured is natural, not dyed. I turned and finished my last blank into an insert for an upcoming fiberglass rod build. My finishing technique is an adaptation of a technique I learned from a local gunstock maker. Involves some pore filling, then many hand rubbed applications of a gunstock finish, in my case Pro Custom Oil. PCO is a penetrating Tung oil/urethane finish that is water resistant (I hesitate to call anything waterproof) finish that remains flexible. Tru-Oil is similar but doesn't include Tung oil in its formulation.
  8. Most of my turning is reel seat inserts. I turned a few pens at a Woodcraft event where we made pens to be sent to service men and women.
  9. fbhenry, don't give up on those old Metz capes, unless the feathers have all been damaged by the moths. If you're finding the stems are becoming brittle and breaking as you begin wrapping them on a fly, the feathers are still serviceable if you first hydrate the stems. I have quite a few old Metz necks and for specific flies still acquire one now and then. Jeff
  10. Welcome Thomas, please help us understand how you prepare your flies for trout conditions in Germany. Jeff
  11. PENZZZ


    For fly photography I use the macro setting on my camera, and mount my camera on a tripod. A felt backdrop minimizes reflection from the background. For lighting (I shoot in a nearly dark room) I mount an LED video light around ten inches behind and slightly above my camera so the light shines just over the top of the camera. I made an adjustable bracket to hold the light out of an aluminum yardstick. My LED light has adjustable brightness and temperature. Since the light stays on (not activated by the camera) my camera is set up to keep the shutter open for 0.5 to 1.5 seconds. This creates as much depth-of-field as possible. I don’t have my notes in front of me so can’t tell you the camera and light settings I use - but you’d have to learn what works best for you anyway. Google “LED video light” to see what’s out there.
  12. I thought I’d heard high winds Sunday downed some power lines, causing brush to ignite. Regardless of cause, citizens are suffering terribly. The area will be impacted negatively for a long time.
  13. Don’t live there, but my wife and I are in the process of unraveling an October 28 house rental near Glen Ellen.
  14. A good reason to consider using the natural materials mentioned above, hackle barbs and CDL, is that natural materials will spring back into shape if you steam your used flies. Tails can be bent out of shape from use, or when stored in a crowded fly box. Synthetic materials, including microfibbets, generally won't spring back into shape when steamed. Same principle applies to parachute style flies. Posts made from natural materials will respond to steaming by springing back into their upright position. Poly materials won't.
  15. This may not be the type of answer you're looking for, but I'd research the stream for the timeframe you'll be there. I'd be looking for Mayfly and Caddis species that might be active during that time. Then, decide on imitations to match a couple of their lifecycle stages.
  16. At our local TU chapter fly tying program I suggest: when dubbing a dry fly "use half as much dubbing as you think you need, then you'll only be using twice as much dubbing as you really need".
  17. Visit wellerfish.me for lots of information about fly fishing colorado. Dave is a good friend and former Pennsylvanian who transplanted around 1990. Everything you need to know about stream fishing in Colorado is located on his site.
  18. Consider that line weight designations for fly rods generally (there is no industry standard) indicate line weight that loads the rod properly with thirty feet of line plus your leader past the fly rod tip top. If you’re going to fish consistently below thirty feet, the short length of three weight line beyond your tip top may not load your rod adequately. Before you purchase the three weight line, borrow a four weight line from a friend and give it a try on stream.
  19. PENZZZ

    Slate Drake

    Not Black Quill which has three tails. A unique characteristic of the Black Quill is that the center tail is shorter than the outer two. Jeff
  20. Excellent Grannom, would fish very well on Central Pennsylvania streams.
  21. Another reason it's difficult to establish value without inspection is that we can't tell the condition of the stems. I continue to collect older Metz necks as I like specific colors for certain applications. Depending upon how the neck was stored, the stems may have become brittle with time, and may break when the tier begins to wrap around the shank of the hook. This doesn't mean you can't use the feathers, you just need to press the thicker part of the stem between a damp paper towel fold for around ten seconds before tying in. This injects moisture into the stem, softening it up a little and avoiding breakage.
  22. Ligas and Fly-Rite, though more course than the Superfine dubbings of today, retain their colors better when wet. With all dubbings, and more so with Superfine dubbings, it's important to do wet-tests before tying up flies. I find Superfine dubbings darken out more when wet than Ligas and Fly-Rite. ...and if yer' real old: You'll remember when gold tinsel was made of metal....... Ha!
  23. Steve, I disagree with your statement slightly. If you and I both test a blank and arrive at an ERN of 5.5, we'll agree that we arrived at the the same objective value. But that doesn't mean you and I will enjoy fishing the same line weight through the rod, even at similar distances. I may love the rod with a four weight line and you may love it with a five weight line. So the ERN value, while an objective value, may mean something different to individual builders/anglers. Otherwise, the developer of CCS might have called the value ERW for effective rod weight. Update: As I was thinking some more about this, I believe the original publication of CCS labeled what we now know as ERN as ELN, but this was too definitive as to what the value meant. Kirkman would know for sure. Some people go into the CCS wanting it to give them all the answers, but it can't due to different casting styles and requirements. I am a big proponent of the system - obtaining an ERN value for a blank goes a long way for me in determining what line weight I will enjoy if I build the rod out. As you know, it also allows builders to use ERN/AA of an existing rod to try matching up with new blank.
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