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Fly Tying

BobHRAH

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About BobHRAH

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  1. In regard to flotation issues, I second what Poopdeck recommends about wing material. All natural materials will eventually absorb some water. But synthetics such as EP fibers, Hi-Vis, Congo Hair, or any other poly type material (not Antron) will shed almost all water with 1 cast. Keep up the good work. Thanks, Bob H
  2. Chug, Could you please show an illustration or photo of how that tool is used. I googled it and saw that it is actually 2 pieces joined at the rivet, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how it would be implemented. Thanks, Bob H
  3. Dave Whitlock has a book that is a compilation (and more) of his Trout magazines articles and artwork. It is absolutely gorgeous, and an incredible bargain at $25. His inscription and included bookmark are beautiful, too. Thanks, Bob H
  4. Here's some toys for making your own Zonkers: https://whitetailflytieing.com/collections/tools/products/zonkercrosscut-jig-and-cutter-whitetail-fly-tieing https://whitetailflytieing.com/collections/tools/products/zonker-jig-whitetail-fly-tieing https://whitetailflytieing.com/collections/tools/products/zonker-cutter-whitetail-fly-tieing Thanks, Bob H
  5. How about an empty Kleenex box. Plastic flaps in pre-cut slit keeps all the waste in the box. Cheap and when full, just throw the whole thing away and start another. Thanks, Bob H
  6. TJM mentioned white dove or common (rock) pigeon. Just finished a Google search for these and mourning dove skins and found nothing. Does anyone know of a source for the skins? I assume that because they are so common, they should be relatively inexpensive. Thanks, Bob H
  7. Chug, That link is to one of his 3 DVDs. The others are Tying Classic Wet Flies and Traditional Streamers and Bucktails. Great techniques in all 3. Thanks, Bob H
  8. Don Bastian's DVDs address all your concerns and you can see them 'in action.' Now all I have to do is get them to work in my own tying. He also has about the best demo of how to prep and set the quill wings. Keep on tying. Thanks, Bob H
  9. Any critique offered in a gentle manner is a good thing, for us observers as well as the poster. A diplomat is known as someone who can tell you to go to Hell in such way that you look forward to the trip. Thanks, Bob H
  10. Good start. Earlier suggestions are spot-on. I prefer videos that start with an image of the finished fly so I can see right away if it's something I'm interested in. Please give more detailed pattern infor (generic hook type eg 2xl, 1xf and preferred size range; specific threads; type of deer hair such as coarse or fine). Good Luck. Thanks, Bob H
  11. I have the same problem with bobbin holders that have a ceramic INSERT. The floss threaders seem to hang up on the INSERT edge when inserted from the spool end of the tube. Metal threaders are longer and if inserted at the tip won't hang up. Full ceramic tubes (eg Rite bobbins) have no issue as there is no edge to catch on. Norm, thanks for caveat on the Dr Slick glass tube product. Thanks, Bob H
  12. Norm, Any tips on getting the peacock sword to align with the same curvature for all? When I Alexandras, I tie in small bunches (3-5) of fibres at a time, which is a little tedious. If I try to set the whole bunch at once, they always end up mis-aligned. Thanks, Bob H
  13. Try to get copies of Don Bastian's Wet fly DVDs. Probably the most explicit instructions that I have ever seen. Besides the pinch loop method, he shows how to get the quill pair in an open loop and take hold of the butts with your wrapping hand and let the weight of the bobbin close the loop. But the method shown in Jaydub's post is pretty interesting, too. Thanks, Bob H
  14. Could it be that the wax that you're applying is causing the excess darkening. I don't usually wax thread, and don't see extreme darkening. Thanks, Bob H
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