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When I first tried it, several years ago, I inevitable lost the dropper after a few casts. After a while, though, I figured out that I had to throw a more open loop when managing 2 flies. Once I got that through my head, I quit loosing my dropper flies.

I generally tie my dropper to the bend of the hook with tippet that is 1x lighter than what I use to the main fly. Whether it's dry & dropper or double nymph rig depends on conditions. Usually, my dropper is quite a bit smaller, such as a size 18 or 20 nymph under a size 12 or 14 lead fly.

It's amazing, to me, how often the midge will score a hit, while the lead fly gets ignored.

I'd recommend you move up to a pontoon. North Fork's frameless pontoons work great, and take up little storage space (a bit pricy, though.) On a pontoon, you sit up off the water, and there's no problem casting, unless you keep dropping your backcast.... Another advantage of a pontoon is that you have oars, and can row through flat water, but you can still use fins to control the craft while you are fishing. The best of both worlds.

Thompson went out of business. Someone else bought up the name, and is trying to continue the business. You can debate if it's the same company or not....

Flea-bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-2D-Holographic-Lure-Eyes-Fishing-Tools-Fish-Eyes-Fly-Tying-Jigs-Tackle-Craft-/282390094061?hash=item41bfc2e0ed:g:CuIAAOSwol5Ywlk9

There are several listings, this is just a sample. Many sizes and colors available.

They are not the same as what you show, but I've been using them for several years, and they work well.

Except for dry fly fishing, you can fish all day with just a roll cast. I don't know why we don't teach it more, I guess because it's just not as sexy. With a little practice, and maybe a bit of coaching, you should be able to roll cast 35' to 50', and that should be far enough to catch most fish.

When we did a casting contest at our TU club, I included a 30' roll cast, that no one, other than myself, could come close to. One of the guys (a good overhead caster) even argued that one can't roll cast that far on dry ground. Of course, I then showed him a 35' roll cast to the target, and followed it with a 45' roll cast, which left him scratching his head. Apparently, no one had ever taught him how to roll cast properly, and he though that 15' to 20' was the limit.

There are a lot of subtilties in good roll casting. You have to pay attention to where your fly is relative to where you want it to go, but it's not really that hard to master, if you are willing to practice.

Just buy a full cape, and use the larger feathers for tailing. That's most of what I've done for years. For a dry fly, you want the tail fibers to be nearly as stiff as the hackle. Some saddle feathers are passable, but generally, they are too soft.

A couple of years ago, I thought one of those tailing packs might be a better way to go, so I squandered the $5 to buy one. They are close to worthless. The feathers are too soft, and, generally, too weakly patterned. I'll never buy another one.

I used to be able to get Chinese or Indian capes, which were of marginal dry fly quality. They made good tailing and well as streamer wings, but the bird flu scare, nearly a decade ago, put an end to that. No one imports them any more.

Which spider pattern are you trying to tie? On a Tokyo Spider, I tie the legs to the sides after the rest of the fly has been completed.

I did the same thing, replaced the 40w bulb with a 460 Lumen, 6w. bulb from Cree. There are no more shadows that there would be from a standard light bulb, and it's much brighter, with a lot less heat.

I do still like my Ott, and use it when I travel. The 13w. Tube does a great job, but is not as flexible as the desk lamp on a swing arm.

Rube Goldberg comes closer to it....

Congratulations, a very nice set. Me, I've only been tying for 50+ years, and I'm not even close to having a complete set of tools... and probably never will be.

UV is also suspected in being the culprit that causes cataracts. I just avoid looking directly at the light. I figure the small amount that bounces off isn't worth worrying about.

The largest dry fly I tie is a size 10 coffin fly for the green drake hatch in eastern TN. It's a pretty straight forward Catskill style fly. I'm not sure if that's the largest Mayfly, here in the East, but it's the largest I'm aware of.

If you haven't already, check out this article on FAOL: http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/atlantic/bomberbugs/bomberbugs.php

As for what fish think it is, FOOD!

I suppose any of a large number of terrestrials, including cicada's, grass hoppers, crickets, wood beetles, caterpillars, grubs, etc. Clearly and attractor, not a specific imitation.

Not really. I live near Raleigh, but I do head up that way a few times a year to get my trout fix. I've not tried to fish that area in July, though. I usually make my trips between Oct 1 and May 30. Any July trip is usually to the Brevard area.

...sure beats having a heart attack and bypass. Prayers and best wishes for a speedy recovery.

It's not a bad idea, but we're pretty scattered. I rarely fly, anymore, and driving more that 8 or 9 hours is too much, at my age. Some kind of regional activity might work, though, say a south east meeting in NC or TN, a mid-west meeting in MO, a western meeting in CO, etc.

July isn't as bad as August. Water levels are still pretty good, and the NCWRC provides regular stocking in the streams marked in green on the map. Personally, I prefer the wild streams, but they generally require a bit of hiking (hence, why they aren't stocked.) SM Bass are, indeed, a viable option. I'd plan for both.

Here ya go: https://ncpaws.org/wrcmapbook/FishingAreas.aspx

Every public access in the state is listed. Just make sure you only click on only one type of access at a time. It also breaks down by type of fish you want to catch. You can even get directions as to how to get to the access point. Nothing is sacred.

Mike, your 4/0 hooks are dangerous weapons!

Hooks used to come in nice neat little boxes, so that's what I use, for the most part. These past few years (maybe 10 years?) the trend has been to put them in plastic/vinyl pouches. If this is what you have the most of, that is a problem, but I don't have a solution for it. I need to keep the hooks with their labels as to size and type, as I have thousands of hooks in dozens of styles and sizes.

I do have a little 12 compartment box I got at Bass Pro Shop that I use when I do demonstration tying. I put a few hooks, mostly 12's and 14's, and a couple of styles in it, but that's for convenience and accessiblility. I couldn't recommend it as a storage option.

Here in NC, as long as you are fishing with a single hook, artificial fly, it doesn't matter what pole you are using. It's seen as a lure restriction.

Collins' grab bag is the best deal, if you are just starting out and don't have many hackles. Charlie used to tie flies himself, so he understands what we are looking for. The grab bag is made up of whatever he has on hand at the time, but they will all be different and they will all be usable. As other have found, if you will include a note telling him what colors you need, he'll do his best to oblige.

Great guy to work with, and really good quality hackles. Some rate him as second only to Whiting. In his barred colors, though, I think his neck feathers are superior in quality (although the feather count and length are slightly less.)

Aah, you found one of the old blind eye hooks....

Yup, I've found a few, over the years, as well. I guess you could snell on a gut loop the way the salmon fly tiers do, but I usually just pitch them. Mustad is sort of like Stanley planes, never the best quality, but good enough quality at a reasonable price.

I used to think I was pretty good, I even won a few fly tying contests, but it wasn't until I sat down with a world class tyer, and let him examine my flies and explain how I could do it better, that I actually became "good."

It's all about attention to detail. Every fly has mistakes, so each fly can be improved once you train your eye to see the problems. That said, fish aren't nearly as picky as some fly tyers are, so don't be too hard on yourself. Most of the flies you'll tie will probably catch fish.

If you are trying to take it to the next level, though, and create works of art, you need the feedback from top tyers. You need to go the the Fly Tying Symposium, or one of the many other fly tying expos. where you can talk to the demonstration tiers. Most will be happy to look at your flies and offer critique (OK, there are a few jerks out there.) Also, as has been said, take classes from noted tyers. Most of these different shows and expos offer such classes, and they aren't really that expensive. I've sat with Gary Borger, Charlie Craven, Robert Schreiner, Oscar Felu, Stack Scovill and others. They've all helped me become a better tier. Each has offered tips and techniques that have become a part of repertoire.

Never stop learning!

I don't know exactly what brand that is, but it's based on the old Thompson B with collet jaws. You should be able to rotate the collet slightly to get them vertical. If it is well made, it can be a good beginner vise.