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Fly Tying


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Everything posted by phg

  1. The above suggestions are good. Another is to tie it in by the tip, making sure the curve of the hackle is toward the rear, then as you wind it, stroke it to the rear. Three of four winds with a soft hackle should do it. It goes without saying that you need a soft barbed saddle or neck hackle. Definitely not dry fly quality. If the barbs are stiff, it won't have the action you want.
  2. A 3000 with 2 sets of jaws is definitely worth $200. Go for it! Worst case is you don't like it, and sell it on eBay for... ta da ... $200.
  3. I use whatever is available at the fly shop, assuming it's the correct size and color. Unless you get a hold of some old thread that has gone brittle, all of them are good enough for their intended purpose. I like Danville 6/0 for #12 and #14's, but will admit that it isn't as strong as some of the others. It does come in a good variety of colors, though, and if you let up your tension a bit, it won't break. I use Uni-Thread 8/0 for most of my #16, #18 and #20's because if its small size and strength. The color selection isn't as good, but I use mostly black anyway. I have some Orvis 10/0 and Benecchi 12/0 that I use on #20 midges and nymphs. They work good on the small sizes, but are a bit pricy. For big flys, like size 2, 4 and 6, I like Uni's Big Fly and Danville's Flat Waxed Nylon, but have also used Danville's 3/0, Danville Flymaster+ or even sewing thread. If I were tying for show, I'd be more selective, but for fishing, they all work.
  4. Here's another article that was down in the wetfly/streamer section. It covers several points you raised. http://globalflyfisher.com/tiebetter/henhackle/ The more you look the more you find.
  5. Interesting, but the one you posted is attributed to Lycoming Co. PA, when the real incident happened in Michigan. Wonder how that happened...?
  6. You're trying to hard. Take it easy, relax. This is supposed to be fun.... You are basically asking the same questions as in your other post. If you are new to flytying, though there is some terminology that can be confusing. It is going to take a bit of time, and reading, to get comfortable, but, hey, that's what a hobbie is for. This page has a lot of info on hackles of all types. Read down through the whole page (there's other stuff as well) http://www.hookhack.com/flytiershints.html This is a cool page, because it has several pictures of "genetic" roosters and shows all of the feathers on a prepared skin. http://www.flyanglersonline.com/flytying/cree.html For what you are trying to tie, you will probably be fine with Saltwater or Bass type necks. You can also look for strung saddle, deceiver packs or clouser packs. It depends on the supplier what they are called, and you will get some unusable feathers no matter what you choose. The best suggestion, though, is to go to a flyshop where you can actually examine the feathers you are buying.
  7. I've always prefered the clamp because it brought the vise closer to the edge of the table, and for stability. My current vise, though is a Renzetti with the saltwater base. It don't move! Anyway, I really don't think you'll find it to be a problem.
  8. Conehead, what I don't like is tying with them. They look good, but I just don't like the big hollow in the back of the conehead. I'd much rather use a bead of the same weight. You are correct, though, they do nosedive, but in heavy current, once your line tightens up, they seem to scoot along the bottom like a bait fish probing the bottom for tidbits. Yes, I'd say the action is more lifelike than a normal streamer. The same goes for a jig head. LC, TC or sinking tip lines would all help some as well.
  9. You must be fishing a ripping current! You didn't say what kind of wire you were using, but .25 isn't likely, more like .025, but even copper of that size will add a lot of weight. Personally, I don't like cone heads, but a good sized bead head would be my next choice. Dumbells will trun your fly over. That's not a bad thing, but you need to tie the fly upside down. Next after that is split shot up the line a bit, say 12 to 18", depending on how deep you want your fly to run. Most baitfish hang out near the bottom, so you do want to get down close. One thing I did try once, though, was solder. I wrapped a fly with .032" solder, and found that the tin that makes up most of solder just isn't heavy enough to be of any use.
  10. I was pretty young when I tied my first fly. As I had not yet learned to be a perfectionist, I was pretty satisfied with that first one. Over the years, my skills improved and so did the standards I set for myself. Now, many years later, I'm rarely 100% satisfied, and as was stated earlier, I'm always learning new tricks, but yeah, I'm pretty well satisfied with my flys. I do buy flys, from time to time, to use as models. It's a good way to learn a new pattern, especially a regional pattern that isn't published.
  11. Insuficient information. What are you calling "neck hackle?" A Whiting gold cape is neck hackle, as are Chinese necks. Then there are hen necks. It depends on the quality, stiffness, web, barb count, size, etc. If you are talking about corse rooster neck hackles with rounded tips, they work good for feather streamers, half-n-halfs, deceivers, clousers, seaducers, bass bug/popper tails. The barbs can be stripped and used for wetfly beards, and the stems can be soaked in warm water and used for quill bodies.
  12. I'm just a hobby tier. I give flys away, sometimes trade with them. In all, I'll tie up a couple hundred flys a year. I mention this to say that I have a budget, of sorts, for flytying which I try to stick to. For the last 5 years, I'd put that budget at about $100 per year. Frankly, I don't think that's too bad. If I bought one soft drink a day from a vending machine at work, I'd spend something like $250/year, and not give it a thought.
  13. I like Fly Tyer because it only has a few issues a year. I hate getting burried in unread magazines, and most mags. don't really have enough content to justify more than 4 to 6 issues a year. :dunno:
  14. Getting the right amount of fur just takes practice What I try to do is estimate how much guard hair I need for the tail, and pinch that much. To remove the hair, pull your pinch straight up, and slid a sharp pair of scissors in as close to the skin as you can get, and snip it off. Without releasing the pinch, now massage the under fur out from around the base of the guard hairs. Work gently, and you will be left with mostly guard hairs in your fingers. I transfer this pinch of guard hairs between hands to measure the lenght, and consolidate the bundle a bit, but I don't try to stack it, I just put it on the hook shank and tie it down. The tail should only be about 1 hook gape long anyway. As for the underfur, I will put that into the palm of my hand, and rub it around with the index finger of my other hand. Once it is scrambled up enough, I work it into a long thin yarn, like any other dubbing. Natural hare's ear tends to be a bit short, and will have a lot of short guard hairs. The yarn breaks easily so work gently with it. As for where to get the fur, I like to work around the eyes of the mask, but, depending on the color I want for the finished nymph, I will go anywhere on the mask. Mine goes from soft grey to almost white, to a medium brown.
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