Jump to content
Fly Tying


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by salmobytes

  1. Good links. Good ideas. Thank you!
  2. The bottom photos in the above flyanglersonline tutorial show a tier weaving around a three-strand loom. Franz Pott used a two strand loom. And so did George Grant. Pages 65-69 of Grant's Master Fly Weaver clearly show a two-strand loom. So does Grant's patent application. Both Pott and Grant got patents for their woven hackle techniques. But it's not all clear what the differences were. I suppose it's possible there were no differences. Perhaps Pott's patent had expired. I've heard (from one of the former owners of the Pott Fly Company--after Pott's death) that there were differences. But it's not clear just what those differences are or were. Perhaps someone else can clear that up.
  3. Dye question Some closed-cell foams that cannot be colored with traditional dyes can be re-colored with permanent marking pens. But it's a pain. Most such marking pens consist of a tubular plastic barrel filled with a fibrous wick that has been soaked in a colored, solvent-or-alcohol like liquid. If you could buy bottles of that liquid it would (in many cases) be a lot more convenient to dip an entire foam chunk into a bottle of that same liquid. Those colors must be available. Marking pen manufacturers use them. What are they? Where can I get them?
  4. ..........................like this? ...oops. No. That's a Don Juan Worm.
  5. Yes...Troth Bulhead. Great fly. Here are a few Troth Bullheads actually tied by Al Troth: http://montana-riverboats.com/index.php?fpage=Fly-Tying/Al-Troth/Bullheads/Troth-Bullhead-Top <== a few more pics...
  6. It might not be easy. But tying big streamers on top of a snelled hook does make a fly with a flexy, end-to-end way of swimming--unlike any other. The feather tail catches the currents too, which tends to keep the fly in a constant swim, no matter what.
  7. Use open cell foam? I do, a lot. At least for stuff that isn't supposed to float.
  8. Mark Freedman's video at MRBoats dot com works for me in Chrome, Firefox and Safari. Does that video appear in other places too? I'll have to ask Mark. What browser are you using? Are you using an older Internet Explorer? IE9 seems to (finally) be a good browser....where Microsoft is finally catching up to the modern age. All previous (especially IE6 and IE7) IE browsers have numerous problems, especially if not updated with various patches from Microlimp.
  9. a) Tie on a snelled hook, so you get flex from end to end: Make a diving-lip Rapalica
  10. here're a few more new twists: Gummy Worm: (foam and chewy skin) http://montana-riverboats.com/Uploads/Gummy-worm.jpg Red worms work better than natural tan, but this all I have photo-wise right now.....the Don Juan Worm. This is killer. It is highly effective at catching fish, and at grossing out puritan worm burners: http://montana-riverboats.com/Uploads/Don-Juan-Worm.jpg
  11. here're a few more new twists: http://montana-riverboats.com/Uploads/Gummy-worm.jpg http://montana-riverboats.com/Uploads/Don-Juan-Worm.jpg
  12. Here's another Pott vid and a slideshow Pott used a different weave than George Grant. Pott used a two-strand loom while Grant (I believe) used a three strand loom. Matt Watrous in Utah makes Pott-like flies too: Matt's Flies ....
  13. That's disgusting. That's immoral. That's not fly fishing! Have you no shame? .....actually I like that fly a lot. I'll have to make some. Do you ever have trouble with a twisting tippet? I do (or did) with other lightweight wigglers, at least until I started using a #12 (smallest size) barrel swivel.
  14. Put a #10 - #13 (ultra thin) beading needle in teh vise horizontally. Skewer the body blank onto the needle. Now you can dimple it with thread. Add what ever. Whip finish with 2-3 wraps. Slide it off the needle and now mount it on a hook. Makes'em notice.
  15. Featherhead (my take on the Marion Sculpin) Knucklehead (same fly as the Featherhead, turned into a lead-head jig) Pig sticker (end-to-end flexibility achieved by tying on a snelled hook) ===> Pig sticker howtodoit tutorial <===
  16. The main thing is here is that those are very nice looking hoppers. I'm just trying to add some interesting icing on top. Craft foam is plenty buoyant to float a hopper. But not necessarily light enough to make it work as a strike indicator for a heavy nymph. The lightest (least dense) foam typically available a fly tying and craft shops is Evazote, at four pounds per cubic foot. What most craft shops call "craft foam" is a bit denser than that. It is possible to buy closed cell EVA and/or Polyethelene foam at two lbs per cubic foot. That stuff is so light it's amazing. But it's very hard (but not impossible) to find a retail source. I bought 300 bucks worth of two lbs per cubic foot foam 20 years ago (from a wholesaler) for making boat seat cushions that doubled as "floatation devices." I still have some, in gray, yellow white black and orange. Hopper-colored tan I'm still searching for. Your techniques are great. And they would work just as well with foam up to half the density of regular "craft foam." I'll see what I can do.......with your techniques and my (extra-extra light) foam. I do like your hoppers.
  17. Those are cool-looking hoppers. Do you know what density the foam is? Pounds per cubic foot is how foam is usually compared, density wise.
  18. If you cook it up with olive oil and bow rosin you get Wonderwax. Or something like it. Does anybody remember the recipe? Proportions?
  19. I haven't seen the article you referred to yet. So I'm not 100% sure what you were describing. I'll look in the shops tomorrow. You can get jig-hook performance from any curved shank up eye hook. The fly below is a Bankrobber (first published in Fly Tyer magazine in 1985 or so). The bankrobber below is tied on a hopper hook, with solid wire solder on the side of the shank opposite the eye. So it always rides hook up, no matter what, much like a jig hook. Better yet the front-protruding solder encounters rocks and branches before the fly does, which causes the hook to tip up as the fly jumps over the obstruction unsnagged. Is this a similar idea to what you are talking about? Bankrobbers are remarkably weedless. (same photo as the "eye spot" post in another thread)
  20. It holds up well and fishes well too. I got good feedback from a guy on the fiberglass flyrod forum who has been making crawfish (similar to a crawfish bass tube post of mine over there) and he reports success as well. http://fiberglassflyrodders.yuku.com/topic/16816/Craw-baby
  21. The following streamer has an eye-spot made with an unknown and unidentified feather I found in my boxes (this is a small feather tied on top of Silver Pheasant feather). What similar eye-spot feathers are legally available? Jungle cock is available, but prohibitively expensive. What legal feathers have an eye-like spot? Guinea Fowl has too many spots. I'm wondering about single spot feathers......which probably don't exist. I just thought I'd ask. You never know what you don't know, even when you know it. ....that's a Bankrobber, for what it's worth. The weight (solid wire solder) is on the bottom of a curved hopper hook--so the hook rides up. The front-protruding solder encounters rocks or branches before the fly itself, which causes the hook to tip up as it jumps over the branch, un-snagged. You can cast a Bankrobber right into a log jamb and nearly always get it back again. I developed the Bankrobber when my wife was first learning how to cast. It not only catches fish--it saved my marriage.
  22. ....those look useful, sort of. I went to Cabelas. Those molded thoraxes come in two colors, but only one size. How to attach those things would be a bit of an engineering challenge. Jim Quick, in his 1960 "Fishing the Nymph" emphatically states molded flies do not work well. But there where no molded flies back in 1960....not any that looked like any real bug. There were a few soft molded cartoon-like caricatures of imaginary critters, but nothing even vaguely matching any real aquatic insect. So much as I like his book in the general case, I have my doubts about that particular assertion. (I do remember a short-lived spate of latex-molded fly-bugs in 1960s Abercrombie and Fitch fly bins, in New York City. But they looked more like rubberized snapshots from a Walt Disney cartoon, rather than real insects). Soft-molded sculpins work well. I know that from the throbbing fly rod. Many times over. ...the Jim Quick quote: "The plastic replicas of nymphs, either formed in a mold or woven are in this class. To our eyes, they are perfection itself, but from a consensus of trout results reports, at this writing, the desirable keepers look upon this lure, under most conditions, as if it were tinged with arsenic. The reader may get the impression that the author, in asking that the fly fisherman or fly tier observe and study the natural nymph, is a bit off his rocker when he states that perfect lures are not too effective. It is true, and why it is that way nobody knows."
  23. Sorry. I forgot the materials list. I edited the original post to include it. Legs: Lumiflex (same as Spanflex) sewn in place with a needle Body: Snipped from a bass tube Glue: CA glue
  24. I've been working on this flexible soft and squishy Golden Stonefly pattern all spring. It's coming along...starting to look better and fishing well too. Legs: Lumiflex (same as Spanflex) sewn in place with a needle Body: snipped from a bass tube Glue: CA glue Ribbing: brown flat waxed nylon Thread: brown uni-thread I skewer the body blank on a horizontal #13 beading needle, and then dimple it with flat nylon. Then wrap a scud hook. Then mount the body loosely. The hook can still shift around at this point. If you wrap tightly the thread will cut into the soft body material. So I wrap loosely and then sew in some rubber legs, and then reposition the hook as a last step--before wetting the shank with CA glue. The sewn-in-place rubberlegs loop over and around the shank, which helps lock the hook rigidly in place when the final CA gluing step is complete. CA glue does not grip well to some plastics. But it does grab bass tube material with a ferocious grip. To make a rubberleg needle choose a thin needle with a big eye. Heat the needle eye with a cigarette lighter and then (using needle nose) push the cherry red eye down onto the point of another needle. Now you can sew rubberlegs. You can even use a bobbin threader to load a rubberleg needle with clumps of fibers or hair or flashabou-like stuff.
  25. Here's the model--a Yellowstone River Mother's Day Caddis: And here's a flat low-to-the-water imitation: I tie the wing on a #13 horizontal beading needle, whip finish and then slide the wing off the needle. Wrap the shank from the eye to mid-shank only, leaving the rear half of the hook bare. Mount a hackle feather on a scud hook and then mount the wing loosely on top with just a few wraps, and then wind horizontally between wing and shank in order to build up a slight thread post (between shank and wing) so winding the parachute does not force the wing to stand upright. Wind the hackle clockwise (as viewed from above) and then fasten and whip finish at the rear. Wind and whip with the thread oriented horizontally, so the thread rides up the bend of the hook, jamming itself tight to the base of the parachute. Finish off with a micro-dot of CA glue at the fulcrum of the parachute.
  • Create New...